After getting home from a 45 min. or so drive, I pulled the car in the driveway and shut it off after 2 min. of turbo timer. I popped the hood as I usually do and could hear the coolant purging in the coolant hoses, but this time it was unusually loud. The car had not been running hot. I replaced the coolant hose that runs from the filler neck to the AST where the radiator cap is about 2 weeks ago with 10mm silicon hose. I looked at it, and saw it was getting fat with pressure. I ran and got some towels just in case, and when I came back, it was as if there was a gold ball inside of it. I took all the towels and laid them on, then POP! It blew, all the hot coolant and steam came out. Was the hose not strong enough to withstand cooland hose pressures? Is air in my coolant system not purging out? Any help is appreciated. Thanks for the time, Evan

 

Sounds like you didn't have the right durometer of silicone hose. If you don't get the right stuff you are much better off staying with conventional rubber hoses.
You need to be careful even if you use VITON, for that matter.

Hey, at least it let loose in your driveway and not on the road!

 

If you used the non-re-enforced kind then yeh, they're not made for pressures like that under that kind of heat. (I don't think so anyway.) I would only use hoses specific for radiator systems and or SS type hoses. In fact, JT-imports sell a radiator AST combo that using only SS lines. It could also indicate a problem with your AST but other than cracking, I've never heard of an AST backing up. Sport hoses sell small diameter re-enforced plumbing but I’ve heard of bad things with customer orders and they are also expensive, but I’m sure other places sell the same thing. If you’re looking to keep your engine compartment looking cool then maybe the SS hoses would still do the job but I don’t know how they attach them (I mean without threading on the female end of things).

 

If you bought the 10mm hose from pep boys or autozone, hah, hah, I hope you learn your lesson.

Try the hosetechnique reinforced heater hose. They come in all different sizes. I'm using the 12mm reinforced silicone hoses for the turbo coolant lines.

 

We have found that the durometer that works the best is either 65-70 durometer. I am sorry to hear that the hose burst.

I am not sure where you got the hose, but I will send you a free 10MM hose to replace the one that burst free of charge. You just pay the shipping $3.85.

We are always looking into new applications for our products. Can you tell me what the wall thickness of the hose you were using was?

Also, if you take me up on the 10MM replacement, what color were you using?

Thanks
Jim

 

I have been thinking about this and thought I should add the following.

As the durometer goes up the tensile strength increases, however the elongation goes down.

As the durometer goes down the tensile strength decreases, however the elongation increases.

There is such a thing as Modulus which is a tensile strength at a certain percent elongation.

I am not quite sold on the fact that the durometer played an issue here. I would say that either the wall thickness was not adequate enough for the pressure.

Just like silicone, you need to be careful with Viton. In the rubber industry all you have to use is 51% of the base material to call it Viton. For example if I mixed 51% Viton and incorporated 49% EPDM into the compound, it is still called Viton. There are a few chemical companies that have also found a way to blend silicone/EPDM's together.

Viton = $20-$60/LB
Silicone = $3-$50/Lb
EPDM = $.38/Lb

This is the reason why you see "blends" everywhere.

Hope that helps

 

Using Si hose was your mistake. Get the OEM cooling hoses or reinforced Si heater hose - they are reinforced with polyester (?) that give them huge strength advantage over plain rubber or silicone. At 10mm, there is a tremendous amount of stress on a hose at cooling system pressures. I think it would be a very bad idea to use any type of rubber/viton/silicone that doesn't have fiber reinforcement. (Higher durometer Si hose would only skip past the golf ball stage and suddenly burst).

Dave

 

Thanks for all the replies it's been really helpful.
High Temp Silicone- thanks for the offer, but I got the stock reinforced hose back on now it everything is fine again. I do appreciate the offer though. I will probably be doing a hose job in the future so I will definately have to remember the name. Thanks again, Evan

 

Thanks for the info, I didn't realize about the 'blends' of VITON. I have a quote from a local distributor:

This bit of information was passed on to me.
.125" ID x .125 wall, shore 60A Viton tubing, would run $3.17/ft for 100' & $3.055/ft for 1,000'. Do we currently have a salesman assigned to your account, that I need to share this information with? Would like to keep all necessary parties informed about all applicable quotes. If we can be of further assistance, please feel free to contact us. Thanks for the opportunity to quote.

Larry Butterfield/Purchasing/Product Mngr.

but it doesn't indicate anything about any sort of potential 'blend'.

 

There are blends everywhere in the rubber and plastic industry. It is common to do this for proccessing and or chemical requirments.

60A # HTS60F53
.125" ID x .125" wall x random long lengths
750ft Min @ $3.00/ft
1000ft @ $2.85/ft

75A (Mil-spec Mil-R-83248C TY2 CL1) #HTS75F81
.125" ID x .125" wall x random long lengths
750ft Min @ $3.25/ft
1000ft @ $2.97/ft

I cant make this in smaller batches than 750Ft. Also the above #'s are 100% Viton base material. Meaning it came from Dupont. There is a lot of confusion because Viton is a fluoroelastomer and 3M makes a cheaper grade. We only use Dupont registered Viton.

Jim

 

That's pretty cool of you!

How about making up a "kit" that replaces the (preformed) two turbo hoses and the heater hoses (forgot how many of those)?

 

Is there a OEM part #, or do you have extra OEM hoses? I can reverse engineer them and make tooling. If they have the potential to sell fast, I may eve just pay for all the tooling.

 

^ my engine is down and i'm in SoCal so I could prolly even drive them over to you if you wanted them for a mold. Well, except for the two to the turbo. Those busted on me and I replaced them with strait peice of silicone. I think they are like $6ea though (OEM).

 

is there any way to take a picture of these hoses? I need to know if they have bends and so forth. I will need to destroy a hose, to get all of the dimensions needed. If they are straight hose no need, I already have tooling.

I would like to produce a full replacement silicone hose kit for your cars. Everything from the vacuum hoses to the radiator hoses could be made.

 

^ I can take pics tomorrow and I can drop some of them off on mon if your in O.C. or within a few hours maybe. I even have the silicone ones for the radiator hoses that I bought from (forgot, was a group buy last year) but they were copied from the OEM ones.

Yes, they all have bends (preformed).

 

I shattered my wrist last week and had surgery. I will be out all next week. I am still typing one handed though! I will be down in OC on Monday for a Dr appointment though. Either I can stop by to take a look at them or pick some up.

Jim

 

I beleive this is the one that he said burst on him above.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=15-183A-N3A1

 

Helmet head, any one else go to MazdaRevItUp?

 

ok, I tried but I only have a web cam. I don't think you can see the bends that well.



http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-681A-N3A1

 

These are the two to the turbos that are common to burst.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-5360-N3A1

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=13-54X0-N3A1

 

I can tell by looking at that picture, that that hose will be a pain in the *** to make.

What is the ID? (estimate)

Whats the wall or OD?

Can you count the plies of fabric?

Can you use straight hose in place of the preformed, or does it need to be formed?

Whats the cost of the black OEM hose?

 

ID 3/4" & OD 1&1/4" for the heater hose that goes along the firewall (rear housing to throttle body). That one and the two for the turbo are most important or rather most prone to popping.

I only see one row of threads, so my guess is two ply?

I think the reason for the bends is to keep them from touching hot engine parts.

Here, I should have just posted this link before...
http://www.mazdatrix.com/bhose3.htm