100k mile club
06-25-02, 02:52 AM
#1
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100k mile club
for those with 100k+ miles on original engine, do you guys worry all the time about engine going? seems like 60-80k is "normal" range, so everytime i drive it i'm pissing in my pants since i've spent 3k+ already in month and a half and can't afford a new motor right now. you guys just ignore it? do anything special to prolong the inevitable? thanks.
06-25-02, 03:53 AM
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Re: 100k mile club
Originally posted by ttb
for those with 100k+ miles on original engine, do you guys worry all the time about engine going? seems like 60-80k is "normal" range, so everytime i drive it i'm pissing in my pants since i've spent 3k+ already in month and a half and can't afford a new motor right now. you guys just ignore it? do anything special to prolong the inevitable? thanks.
for those with 100k+ miles on original engine, do you guys worry all the time about engine going? seems like 60-80k is "normal" range, so everytime i drive it i'm pissing in my pants since i've spent 3k+ already in month and a half and can't afford a new motor right now. you guys just ignore it? do anything special to prolong the inevitable? thanks.
06-25-02, 09:53 AM
#4
Originally posted by ttb
would getting it rebuild before the engine blows save me money? figure might as well use it until it dies? no?
would getting it rebuild before the engine blows save me money? figure might as well use it until it dies? no?
Just drive the car as you normally would. Enjoy it. When/if that rebuild time comes, then you can baby it for the break in period after the rebuild.
You should always have a plan though, just in case the engine does goes south. You never want to think about a rebuild or reman, but it doesn't hurt to be prepared.
06-25-02, 09:57 AM
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well, you could re-use the side seals and rotors/eccentric shaft/counterbalance and the intermediate/endplates and the rotor housing...
have it ported and put back together with better corner seals/apex seals and just buy the oil seal kit for about $90 and you have a "new" engine...
...plus you'll KNOW when your engine will be down because you planned it that way...
have it ported and put back together with better corner seals/apex seals and just buy the oil seal kit for about $90 and you have a "new" engine...
...plus you'll KNOW when your engine will be down because you planned it that way...
06-25-02, 10:05 AM
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If its gone 100k miles on your driving style then you really dont have anything to worry about. I would but some change away though for that faithful day we all know will come. Stop worring and enjoy it.
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06-25-02, 10:28 AM
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Originally posted by Street King
what does the c in mc2 stand for. Isnt it energy=mass x ?? 2ed?
what does the c in mc2 stand for. Isnt it energy=mass x ?? 2ed?
gives you a good idea of the power of an atomic bomb doesn't it?
06-25-02, 10:32 AM
#11
Ex fd *****
Originally posted by Street King
what does the c in mc2 stand for. Isnt it energy=mass x ?? 2ed?
what does the c in mc2 stand for. Isnt it energy=mass x ?? 2ed?
06-25-02, 10:56 AM
#13
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Re: 100k mile club
Originally posted by ttb
for those with 100k+ miles on original engine, do you guys worry all the time about engine going? seems like 60-80k is "normal" range, so everytime i drive it i'm pissing in my pants since i've spent 3k+ already in month and a half and can't afford a new motor right now. you guys just ignore it? do anything special to prolong the inevitable? thanks.
for those with 100k+ miles on original engine, do you guys worry all the time about engine going? seems like 60-80k is "normal" range, so everytime i drive it i'm pissing in my pants since i've spent 3k+ already in month and a half and can't afford a new motor right now. you guys just ignore it? do anything special to prolong the inevitable? thanks.
You have seen my car before, I am not sure If I told you, the original engine lasted till 120K miles, my engine is a Mazda Reman. I have perfect compression, etc. Personally I don't recommend getting it rebuilt. We all know there are pro's and cons to each, but I recommend getting a Mazda Reman. You will get a new engine that way. As you know a reman is not a rebuilt, but a remanufactured engine. I don't think they have the quality problems that they used to.
I used to get stressed out about stuff too. I had 143K on my factory radiator, what did I do? I replaced it with a KOYO before it went bad. Now I have upgraded my car and find that my clutch cant handle the extra power, lol. So now I need to get a performance clutch.
Have you done a compression test yet? If it has good compression i would not do anything. You can get 30K more out of that engine still.
If you want to check out my engine or whatever, just give me a call.
David
06-25-02, 12:04 PM
#14
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Yea. DontbeaRikki is right..
I got about 130K on my original motor
and turbos. Me being the original owner,
has alot to do with it though. I've always
stayed on top of my Oil changes and treated
her nicely. I've never turned my Turbo boost Up,
without getting ECU upgrade.
I am not the type to go WOT light
to light for the hell of it. I don't waste my time
racing some cars I know I can spank, like bone
stock cars with youngins rubber necking and
wanting a show.
My advice from what i have learned thru the years
for new FD3S owners and etc are:
1. Get Vacuum Hose Job ASAP
2. use constant torque clamps for IC connections.
3. Water Temp Gauge
4. *** Do the Fan Mod with Switch ***
5. Boost gauge
Only if I knew all this 100K miles
ago, every thing would be gravy. Personally
I am looking forward to a reman/rebuilt ported engine
and new turbos, eventually.. But whats the hurry?
I got about 130K on my original motor
and turbos. Me being the original owner,
has alot to do with it though. I've always
stayed on top of my Oil changes and treated
her nicely. I've never turned my Turbo boost Up,
without getting ECU upgrade.
I am not the type to go WOT light
to light for the hell of it. I don't waste my time
racing some cars I know I can spank, like bone
stock cars with youngins rubber necking and
wanting a show.
My advice from what i have learned thru the years
for new FD3S owners and etc are:
1. Get Vacuum Hose Job ASAP
2. use constant torque clamps for IC connections.
3. Water Temp Gauge
4. *** Do the Fan Mod with Switch ***
5. Boost gauge
Only if I knew all this 100K miles
ago, every thing would be gravy. Personally
I am looking forward to a reman/rebuilt ported engine
and new turbos, eventually.. But whats the hurry?
06-25-02, 12:13 PM
#15
Passenger
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Originally posted by Dont_Be_A_Rikki
WhiteRxseven is around I think like 130k same motor and turbos and runs 14 psi strong *** heck I still cant get over it but he babys that car like a child(as anyone should) he is the man
-Rikki
WhiteRxseven is around I think like 130k same motor and turbos and runs 14 psi strong *** heck
I still cant get over it but he babys that car like a child(as anyone should) he is the man-Rikki
06-25-02, 12:13 PM
#16
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so, if someone were looking to buy a rx7, should they buy one with a blown motor, take it and have it redone, and start its life being pampered? or should they buy one with a motor with (in my case 56,000 miles on it) and treat it like a baby then?
A compression test and everything is deffinently going to come before the purchase.
thanks
A compression test and everything is deffinently going to come before the purchase.
thanks
06-25-02, 12:25 PM
#17
Passenger
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I personally think a good rx7 in nice shape (regardless of miles) will run about 16K. I am talking nice interior, shiny paint, etc. With that said, I found a 94 in amazing shape, the car had 138K at the time. I got the car for 12,700 and I had the idea that a new engine will cost about 5K if it needed it. It was icing on the cake when I found the maintenance records in the car and was able to track down the original owner and I found that the engine was replaced at 120K.
so my idea is get one that was taken care of, find one that had highway miles if you can (I probably am the exception to this). You could pay 16K for one with 57K and find that it needs a new engine in 10K miles, or you can buy one that has 150K and had its engine replaced at 140K. So I would try to get one with a new engine if your paying top dollar.
so my idea is get one that was taken care of, find one that had highway miles if you can (I probably am the exception to this). You could pay 16K for one with 57K and find that it needs a new engine in 10K miles, or you can buy one that has 150K and had its engine replaced at 140K. So I would try to get one with a new engine if your paying top dollar.
06-25-02, 04:01 PM
#18
5yr member, joined 2001
I'm 102k original miles. My car still pulls VERY strongly. I'm the fifth owner, and either the first or the second owner (ricer) got it in a minor front-ender. I do worry about the engine blowing, so I've already saved for a rebuild (or a 20B swap 
). I learned early on to have a cache of "OH ****!" cash on stash.
-Jon
). I learned early on to have a cache of "OH ****!" cash on stash. -Jon
06-25-02, 04:16 PM
#19
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Yea i know guys. I'm the 4th owner and the previous owner had his go sour @ 102K+ and not it has 111K on the odo with a reman from mazda. I guess I qualify for membership. Where do i sign up?
06-25-02, 10:46 PM
#20
i'm at 96k miles and 2nd owner. The original owner babied the hell out of the car.. older man. he replaced the turbos around 60k miles, i got ahold of it at 85kmiles car runs very strong... makes 16psi vacuum and pulls 8s on compression testing.
I'd have to say, when my motor does go, whenever that is, i'm stuck between a rebuild and a reman... either way, i'm buyin a little 900$ civic for the down time whenever it should appear.
I'd have to say, when my motor does go, whenever that is, i'm stuck between a rebuild and a reman... either way, i'm buyin a little 900$ civic for the down time whenever it should appear.
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