rx76k

like i said before, this is not a lesson or a how-to guide. this is a how-*I* changed my oil on my car. feedback is appreciated on what i did so i can make better choices.

quicksilver_rx7

Funny you say that. There was an argument about this the other day in another thread!

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/change-oil-filter-without-changing-oil-433487/

JConn2299

WOW, another "expert." That's a laugh. There's an owner's manual for the FD. Have you ever read it? I refer you to page 7-13. It's under the heading "Changing engine oil"

"1. Warm up the engine for a few minutes and turn it off. Remove the oil-filter cap."


Some people here don't even bother to learn the basics.

murphyefini

lol i dont feel as stupid anymore

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Necros

Nothing to add to the thread, but I just wanted to say that these two sequential posts really sum up rx7club.com for me. Thanks for the (unintentional) laugh, guys.

I love this place. You're tough, but you're fair.

Retserof

iTrader: (1)

First, I run the front of the car up on a pair of Rhino ramps (best $30 investment you can make), then I punch a large hole or 2 into the top of the old filter before removing it so that the oil in it all drains into the engine instead of onto it. Next, install a new filter. Then, remove the drain plug. While it is draining, I use a floor jack with a block of wood under the differential to level the car for good drainage. Then I lower the rear, reinstall the drain plug with a new washer, and add the new oil. No mess and no need for jack stands.

JConn2299

That's right everybody. Disregard your owner's manual. Don't pay attention to the engineers who designed the car. Instead you should follow adam c, this dude who posts on the internet.

JConn2299

No, you shouldn't feel stupid. You're just new to the car, that's all. What bugged me about your post was that you wrote what looked like a very comprehensive list, but it wasn't. It missed some basics, like warming up the engine, and also, as a thorough mechanic would do, replacing the crush washer on the drain plug.
Then I saw your number of posts and your admission that you're a new owner and I didn't want some other newbie to be misled or get into bad habits thinking it was the way to go.

On two occasions I've heard people whom I consider to be rotary engine experts be dismissive of this forum. They both said the same thing. "There's some bad information floating around on that thing."
I also happen to think there's a lot of good information floating around here. But it pays to be thorough in your research before you come to a conclusion, especially if you haven't had a long experience with the car.

nickpapagiorgio

Doesn't the owner's manual also say NOT to use synthetic oil??

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

^What he said rx76k. Welcome and thanks for the effort. The oil change thing wasn't all that helpful. but I did appreciate the oil data. Is there a site you can link to for more?

Sonny

adam c is my hero!

Sonny

ObjectZero

kaktakular

scratchjunkie

theres a lot of garbage floating around here.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

Brilliant

By your logic, everyone should do everything that is recommended by Mazda. That would include keeping all stock parts:

Stock AST
Stock Radiator
Stock Pre-cat
Stock Intercooler
Stock Coolant Temp Gauge

I sure you do everything Mazda recommends ......... shouldn't everyone

CantGoStraight

Engine should be operating temp. If you can't stand the heat +take it to an oil change place. They will wait for it to cool off.

1. pop hood, raise hood and secure it with rod.
The object is to tilt the car so the drain plug is at it's lowest point.
3. ALWAYS use jack stands to secure the car in place.
4. unscrew oil cap under hood.
5. slide cardboard then oil pan under the car near the drain plug. on oil pan, unscrew center plug, open air valve, keep white cap secured.
6. ALWAYS use safety glasses since working under the car. beware of pieces of caked on oil dropping from the car into eyes.
7. slide under the car, use 17mm socket with 3/8" rachet to unscrew drain plug and empty dirty motor oil into oil pan. wipe drain plug clean with paper towels and save for later. allow 10 minutes for oil to completely drain.
Might want to say intake elbow, and it's next to the Throttle body not the upper intake. BTW the elbows are not all silver so you could confuse some people.
Nice touch but if your not willing to get dirty the car will not respect you.
Do you work for these people ? Do you have to use a Purolator, you can use the part number for the 626 and have a taller filter (like the one you took out but Purolator)
Good point, you should mention this to the oil change places as they have been known to ignore this fact, and indeed oil was all the way from the garage to about 4 miles down the road.
Are you sure it takes 4 whole qt.s ??? or is it 31/2 or 4 1/2 I think I always wind up with 1/2 qt. left when I add to the fill line. Then use it to add at 1500 mi. (I am generally 1/2 qt down by then)
13. make sure the bottom of car is clear. remove jack stands then proceed to slowly lower car to ground.
You may want to check for leaks after the first qt. in case you forgot step 11.) Then you might want to start the car and check for leaks at the filter and oil plug (incase you forgot the crush washer that fell in the oil catch pan.

CantGoStraight

Do you have the numbers for 20w50 or are they about the same ? ? ? Jack

CantGoStraight

Hell if common sense were so common everone would have it !!!LOL couldn't help it.

CantGoStraight

Interesting, may I suggest a better filter (Purolator perhaps) they don't drain back into the engine or on it for that mater. At least mine don't

CantGoStraight

Now if I pissed anyone off ....don't be so sensitive. I enjoyed this post as much as the good guy bad guy forum !!!!

Welcome to the list rx76k and when you get through figuring out the turbo contol system on you car give me a detailed list on fixing it as mines not boosting correctly yet.

rx76k

i wrote a comprehensive list of what *I* done. this is NOT a how-to guide. get that straight. replace with a new crush washer every time i change the oil? uh yeah right. i've never done that and none of my other cars ever leaked. however, i when i change the tranny oil i will use new crush washers.

for some reason, now im getting rubbed the wrong way by this guy that is so critical of my post. im getting irked by the unnecessary thread bashing. for the last time, this is NOT a how-to guide. i've seen some really pathetic off topic threads that didn't get as much criticism as this one. if this isnt a comprehensive list of what *I* did, then why don't YOU write one.

lol, so more posts = more wisdom? give me a break.

i don't think i can be any more clearer about CHANGING THE OIL than what i have already posted. if you don't like my post, don't read it.

rx76k

read the other post about debris in the oil settled in the car's oil pan. starting the car can flush the particles settled overnight to cycle the engine rather than just exiting it out of the drain plug.

UPDATE: change the oil warm or cold, at your preference.

use Purolator PureONE if you want a smaller filter for high quality, anti-drainback, easier install in the cramped space. if you want a cardboard filter, put FRAM in it.

heck i just poured 4 quarts in there, but if you want to be **** you can pour it into a measuring cup and pour out 0.2 quarts to get 3.8 quarts.

CantGoStraight

Did you know if you over fill it, that it may smoke ? ? ?

BLKTOPTRVL

I am not going to comment on the need for a oil change write up, but to add my two sheckels...

I never use a jack or jack stands stands for an oil change, it is a waste of time.
All you need to do is lift the front of the car two inches or so to get the drain pan under the car. Normally you cannot because the car has a low clearance.

So, make a Quick GP ramp.

1. go to Home Depot, get a 2" x 8" x 10' plank
2. cut it into 4 equal length (2.5') sections
3. cut one end of each plank at a 22.5 degree angle
4. line up two planks so that they make a continuous ramp.
5. join the two planks together using carriage bolts.
6. countersink bottom side of the lower plank so that the nuts of the carriage bolts are not exposed
7. get a sheet of rubber matting
8. cut the rubber matting to fit the bottom of the joined ramp
9. staple or glue the rubber to the bottom of the plank (the longest side)

Now you have a handly dandy ramp that can be used easily. The rubber matting on the bottom will prevent the ramp from sliding forward when you attempt to drive up the 22.5 degree angle of the plank ends.

The big benefit of these ramps is that you don't need help gettin up on them and they won't slide out from under the car as you drive forward. Also, you don't need someone else to help spot you to see if you are about to drive off the end. Just takes a minute to drive up, and then you just drive off the other end.

After the engine is up to temp, reach under and remove the drain plug and yada, yada, yada... complete the oil change.

Personally, I never use new crush ring. Never have for 25+ years, never had a leak. I just make sure I do not try to tighten the drain plug using super-human strength - snug is good enough.

impactwrench

This is getting old. Can someone please tell me how to rotate the tires?