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Per our Phone conversation, this is what I was referring to. Appears the FSM calls it the "Option Switch". couldnt find anymore information on it in the FSM other than the wiring schematics it provided. I was thinking it was a 2 way connector, but its actually a 3 way connector. I post this in this thread in case it helps others out. Again my RX7 is a 93 Base.
This is from a picture I found on Google, but its that White colored connector in the back of the image near the bottom area of the CPU2
Looks to be tied in with CPU2, so maybe its some kind of option for the security system?
That is a good question! That looks like an option only available on the 93 FD. It was, well...optional! When compared to a 94 FD schematic, it doesn't exist. However, the pin from CPU #2, Pin 2J is listed in as an Option Switch in the table. There are no test conditions, measurements, or inspection area information. That is basically listed as "N/A". And Connector J4-04 in the 94+ FD is the Hood Switch. In the 93 FD, Connector J4-05 is the Hood Switch
I hope that answers your question. Thanks for picking my brain about that! Below are pics from the WDM (Wiring Diagram Manual) to compare and contrast the 2 circuits.
Cheers,
George
The physical connector & wiring was removed from the circuit.
Pins 2I and 2J have no function from the Body CPU.
Alright, so I sent my CPU2 off to George (Gen2n3) to get it repaired. He did an awesome job fixing my CPU2 and was amazing to deal with, will for sure do business with him again when I need electrical repairs done.
So the below video shows you the security system of my Base model rx7 in action. Also the exterior door key hole should light up along with another light in the interior of the car. This is triggered when the door handle is pulled on. The one for my car stays on for about 18-20 seconds then turns off. All it does is light up the key hole so you can see at night. To activate the alarm just use the key to lock the driver door. The security light will stay on for about 5 seconds or so, then start to flash. when its flashing it lets you know the security system is armed. Note that if you have the door shut and you lock and unlock the door many times with out opening the door, the security light wont turn on when you lock it. You have to open the door and then shut it, then lock it for the security light to activate. On my car at least. The alarm will trigger when an intruder unlocks the door. Its the act of unlocking that sets the alarm off, not opening the door. Cant open the door unless you unlock it.... The lights should flash and headlights go up and down and the horns beep. Im having slight issues with my SBG projectors, so the driver side light isnt flashing, I think the bulb isnt any good cause a lot of times when I turn the lights on, it wont turn on, i dont know, i havent spent much time diagnosing it. Also the passenger projector was installed rotated at an angle, so ill have to contact SBG and see what they say, hopefully they wont give me issues to get this resolved. But back on track, to turn off the alarm, just insert the key in the lock and unlock it. When you unlock it the security light will turn on, if you hold it in the unlock position the light will stay on, just lets you know its dearmed.
The only thing thats not working according to George is the door chime. As of now it does not bother me that its not working, but later on I would like it to work. So will have to do some more digging around on why its not working.
You are more than welcome! I'm glad to help out. Thank you for posting a demonstration video. The key illumination works exceptionally well! It's also good to see the factory alarm work. Did you test the key reminder (door chime) when the key was in the ignition cylinder? I suspect that it will not sound because the factory alarm did not beep once you armed it. I shall explain (reinforce your findings, and others in case they do not have the owner's manual):
To set the factory alarm (function of CPU #2):
1. Remove key from ignition.
2. Close and lock the doors, rear hatch (boot), and hood (bonnet), EXCEPT the driver side door.
3. Lock the driver side door. The passenger side door should "follow me" and lock.
4. An audible beep will sound and the SECURITY light will illuminate.
5. After the driver side door is closed, wait 10sec; the SECURITY light will extinguish then flash every 3sec.
6. A flashing SECURITY light means the alarm is armed.
Refer to the owner's manual, around Pg 2-10 for more about the alarm (theft-deterrent system).
It is also important to remember: if the Body CPU does not beep when the key is left in the ignition, seat belt warning, or arm the alarm then it probably will not sound when the coolant level is too low or the engine is in an over-rev scenario (above 7,500RPM I believe). The coolant low alarm works with the low coolant light on the water temp gauge. I would really like to explore a Body CPU further to better understand the components that drive the buzzer (sounds the beeps).
Cheers,
George
P.S. I just noticed that the owner's manual calls out a Static Electricity Ground panel on the driver side door. Check it out on Pg 2-5!
Thanks George, will go out and try it for the chime.
Also want to note that the alarm does go off when I open either the bonnet or trunk (this is not seen in the vid). So pretty much if any of the doors, hood and trunk are unlocked or opened, the alarm goes off.
Yes, that is a normal condition. You also demonstrated how to shut off the alarm once activated. Alternately, you could insert the key into the rear hatch lock and turn it to disarm the alarm.
Alright, just went out and did what you said, closed the passenger side door, bonnet, and trunk. Used the door lock handle to lock the door. the security light came on and stayed on. Shut the driver door and the light started blinking after about 10 seconds or so.
Through out the entire procedure, I didnt hear a beep or chime. I even tried again and waited in the car once the door was locked before getting out and shutting it.
Also I put the key in the ignition and no beep or chime, when the key in the on position and no beep or chime.
I do remember when I was messing with the engine and getting my idle fixed working with datalogit on the PFC, there was a chime for a little bit and then it stopped chimming. This was when you still had my CPU2.
I will look into that page you suggested in the FSM when I get some time. Thanks for suggestion.
Edit:
I should note that, the Low coolant level sensor, the lead had broken off, the previous owner never replaced the sensor. So that probably why George, when you had my CPU2 and I was messing with my engine idle, the chime was going off and sounding. Like you said the Low coolant chime works off the temp gauge.
I don't recall if the PFC has a buzzer but when the Body CPU was removed from your car then it should not have made any beeps. If something beeped inside the cabin then it could possibly be your PFC or perhaps some other product.
I would also like to clarify the function of the low coolant alarm, in case I may have caused confusion. The low coolant level sensor sends a signal to the Speedometer Circuit board via Instrument Cluster Connector Pin 3D. This signal is sent to the Speedo board via Con1 Pin 9. Refer to my Flex Print Schematic thread for a detailed pin layout of the Speedo Connector (Con1). If the fluid level is low then that signal is processed by the Speedo board. It is then outputted via Con1 Pin 8 to Instrument Cluster Connector Pin 3B. The signal from Pin 3B is then sent to the Body CPU at Pin J4-01 Pin 1L. This signal makes one continuous sound from buzzer until the water level is restored.
Additionally, the Low Coolant Light receives a ground from the Speedo Con1 Pin 13 when the Speedo Board receives a low threshold from the Coolant Level Sensor. This would light up the bulb inside the Water Temp Gauge. Therefore, when the coolant level is low an alarm will sound and a warning light will tell you what the problem is.
Please note that the Low Coolant Level Warning Light is separate from the water temp gauge in the instrument cluster schematic, C-1a (Pg Z-42 of WDM). Physically, the low level light is on the water temp gauge because of its important association to engine health. When illuminated, it indicates the engine coolant is below normal and must be filled. It does not mean that the water temp is too high. The needle on the the water temp gauge indicates how hot the coolant system is. Ultimately, the low coolant alarm (light and sound) is independent from the water temp gauge.
I hope this would clear any confusion to the operation of the low coolant light and alarm.
The reason why no alarms (beeps) are sounding in your FD is because the Body CPU has a fault that I could not isolate and repair. Much like the Speedo board, CPU #2 keeps many secrets that only it and Mazda engineers know.
06-06-18, 03:35 PM
