Upper Control Arms - OEM or Nagisa?
04-11-18, 02:33 PM
#1
Upper Control Arms - OEM or Nagisa?
Hey All,
Putting this one out to the brain trust, I searched the forums and couldn't find any actual feedback from someone using them.
I have been quoted pretty much the same price for either option and was wondering what advice you all have?
With the Nagisa the major pro is the replaceable ball joint, however I worry about the design being weaker than OEM due to the missing part that completes the "A". Also it has no accommodation for the ABS lines so that would become a cable tie or similar job. One other thing is the pillow *****; not sure if this is an improvement or not? I know Nagisa is a good name, so maybe my worries are unfounded?
Obviously OEM is OEM, bolt in and no issues...well at least until the ball joint craps out......
Any thoughts, advice or actual reviews for users would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Tom
Putting this one out to the brain trust, I searched the forums and couldn't find any actual feedback from someone using them.
I have been quoted pretty much the same price for either option and was wondering what advice you all have?
With the Nagisa the major pro is the replaceable ball joint, however I worry about the design being weaker than OEM due to the missing part that completes the "A". Also it has no accommodation for the ABS lines so that would become a cable tie or similar job. One other thing is the pillow *****; not sure if this is an improvement or not? I know Nagisa is a good name, so maybe my worries are unfounded?
Obviously OEM is OEM, bolt in and no issues...well at least until the ball joint craps out......
Any thoughts, advice or actual reviews for users would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Tom
04-11-18, 08:36 PM
#2
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
They don't look to have dust seals. I would be concerned that they could be noisy or harsh - many of these parts are designed for pure race use and are terrible on the street.
With no dust seals the bearings can chew up fast with street use and start clunking.
Dale
With no dust seals the bearings can chew up fast with street use and start clunking.
Dale
The following 2 users liked this post by DaleClark:
gracer7-rx7 (04-10-23),
Sgtblue (04-10-23)
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Sgtblue (04-10-23)
04-12-18, 10:54 AM
#4
Tom
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gracer7-rx7 (04-10-23)
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04-13-18, 08:18 PM
#10
I haven't, just say them while looking for some stock ones. I noticed the alignment shop had to adjust my lower arm plates alot to get the camber straight and thought maybe these can do it without maxing out the lower arm. Haven't even looked review wise yet though.
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ptrhahn (04-11-23)
04-14-18, 02:22 PM
#15
Somebody (Like Chip) needs to just offer a service where they remove the stock joint, machine the arm out and install a replaceable ball joint unit. Seems a lot better than creating a whole new arm (for which you need an aftermarket joint anyway).
04-14-18, 03:14 PM
#16
I will likely just go and get new OEM upper & lower arms, but was hoping I could future proof myself by getting something with replaceable ball joints. Keeping a few spare OEM arms lying around is pretty expensive
04-14-18, 06:08 PM
#17
ptrhahn
Somebody (Like Chip) needs to just offer a service where they remove the stock joint, machine the arm out and install a replaceable ball joint unit. Seems a lot better than creating a whole new arm (for which you need an aftermarket joint anyway).
Somebody (Like Chip) needs to just offer a service where they remove the stock joint, machine the arm out and install a replaceable ball joint unit. Seems a lot better than creating a whole new arm (for which you need an aftermarket joint anyway).
He made an adjustable upper arm as well and didn't bother to put in the back cross brace- runs 315/30-18 Hoosier A7s up front I believe.
There kinds of unsealed spherical ***** wear out really fast on the street, I would go Dorman or OEM unless it is a competition car.
04-10-23, 11:41 AM
#18
I have spent three days ressearching oem front control arsm vs aftermarket and have yet to get a clear answer. I am doing my upper and lower control arms with super pro bushings and I have yet to check my pillow ***** but with 120k on the chasis I am sure they need to be replaced. I have seen some aftermarket copies of the aluminum oem arms. Does anyone have any good or bad experiences?
04-10-23, 11:53 AM
#19
Worth checking, but you MIGHT be surprised. The OEM ball joints seem to be pretty robust…especially the upper.
FWIW if they are bad, these guys make replacement but no experience with them.
https://ccfablab.com/product/cc-rx7-...ll-center-kit/
FWIW if they are bad, these guys make replacement but no experience with them.
https://ccfablab.com/product/cc-rx7-...ll-center-kit/
Last edited by Sgtblue; 04-10-23 at 11:58 AM.
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estevan62274 (04-10-23)
04-10-23, 05:12 PM
#20
I have the Nagisa arms! They've been great, but...
...First, as mentioned before, there are no dirt/dust seals. If you don't drive often, it's not as much an issue. The ball joint stud is very robust and also replaceable, which I like.
Next, stock wheels will rub on the corners of these arms. For whatever reason, the part that comes from the bushing (toward outboard) is too long. I even stepped up to 18" wheels, and still have the problem. Just got some spacers hoping that solves the problem. This is a problem for two reasons: Obviously rubbing, but also corrosion. Rubbing gouges both the wheel and the arm. Just a hard chromed finish, and it will rust when scraped away.
Finally, the shop that set my suspension up (VERY familiar with race car suspension and FD suspension setup) said that you really do not gain much appreciable camber adjustment. In fact, I was told that the LCAs have more effect on camber than UCAs.
I am planning to get some OE UCAs from Ray before next spring and go back that way. Probably stow or sell my Nagisa arms then.
...First, as mentioned before, there are no dirt/dust seals. If you don't drive often, it's not as much an issue. The ball joint stud is very robust and also replaceable, which I like.
Next, stock wheels will rub on the corners of these arms. For whatever reason, the part that comes from the bushing (toward outboard) is too long. I even stepped up to 18" wheels, and still have the problem. Just got some spacers hoping that solves the problem. This is a problem for two reasons: Obviously rubbing, but also corrosion. Rubbing gouges both the wheel and the arm. Just a hard chromed finish, and it will rust when scraped away.
Finally, the shop that set my suspension up (VERY familiar with race car suspension and FD suspension setup) said that you really do not gain much appreciable camber adjustment. In fact, I was told that the LCAs have more effect on camber than UCAs.
I am planning to get some OE UCAs from Ray before next spring and go back that way. Probably stow or sell my Nagisa arms then.
04-12-23, 11:55 AM
#23
As far as being NLA, control arms have been one the consistently available items on these cars. I'm not worried about them becoming NLA. The design never changed through the production run of the FD so the market is much bigger than just the U.S.
04-13-23, 07:27 AM
#25
I seriously doubt that the place in China copying the OE parts put nearly the amount of effort into development and, especially, control over material selection and consistency.
It's not worth the gamble, and I'm sure most on this forum will agree. Think about how long many OE suspension components have been on these cars. If that is not a testament to the quality control, I don't know what is.
I bought a used replacement non-Mazda CV shaft once from the classifieds here. My tuner snapped that very axle in short order. Bought a used OE replacement, and never had that problem. My standpoint is that crap from China should only be used as consumables, and I avoid it whenever possible.
If you do go with Dorman suspension components, I only hope we don't wind up on the same stretch of road anytime.
