So I installed new stainless steel OMP lines and new crush washers a while ago on my FD.

eventually had a giant leak and noticed that the bottom OMP banjo wasn’t fully flush (wasn’t fully tightened) so I tightened it and righty tighty turned into righty loosey.

so I tightened it as much as I can and now there’s a very small oil leak coming from it

what do you guys think? Could the bolt be stripped or the inside of the OMP? Or maybe just the crush washers are bad since I’ve tightened and untightened them and then retightened? I’m thinking of ordering new crush washers but they’re $3 each from Atkins. Or should I hit ace hardware for some?

 

If the OMP is stripped do you guys reccomend putting some red threadlocker and retightening it or using jb weld and re tightening it? Heard someone use a helicoil but I’ve never done that

 

copper washers are not typically unique, they can be had from anywhere that sells like the parts stores. a bad washer isnt going to cause a bolt to be righty loosey. pull the omp and inspect.

do not perform either of the "fixes" you have mentioned. the universe will see to it that you will be an FD owner no more

 

Ya I suspected as much. Before I pull the OMP is using something like loctite on the OMP thread hole bad? Will it gunk up and stop wherever the flow of oil comes from and to the banjo bolt?

 

do not perform *ANY* of the "fixes" you have mentioned

 

I am not trying to be difficult here. The nice person that posted before you here that anything short of replacing the OMP or doing a delete will cause issues later on. Possibly ruining your engine. Bite the bullet and do things correctly or there could be catastrophic results.

As and aside, I did try a helicoil on one I stripped and it just split the OMP. If it doesn't split...it might later. Some sort of sealant might work.... If might fail in the next minute and destroy your engine slowly if you are not constantly checking for leaks.

 

Hey guys I appreciate the input.


so since you guys are adamant on not doing a fix, that leaves me with only buying a new OMP. Where can I source a new one that isn’t Atkins since Atkins charges $1700 for one? Or is that the only option I have?

also you guys are saying I can destroy my motor if not careful but I don’t understand how. Do you guys mean that a leak = lack of oil pressure into rotor chambers and can cause apex seal failure? If so, I premix on top of the OMP so the OMP really is redundant but I want to keep it for an extra margin of safety.

or do you guys mean that a part of the loctite can flow through the oil line into the combustion chamber causing damage?

trying to understand how that could cause damage

 

A couple thoughts….
* Good used OMPs are usually available and you indicated it’s a small leak so you can still drive the car. Check the 3rd Gen parts section here, place a Want To Buy….or PM a known reliable used parts vendor like tomsn16.
*Your OMP is not redundant as it’s both rpm and load dependent whereas just premixing isn’t. Doing both, IMO, is usually a good thing.

 

Premix is only injected when your fuel injectors are firing i.e. not during decel fuel cut or rev limit fuel cut. OMP operates independently of fuel injectors and supplies oil when premix would not.

Hypothetically even if you upped your premix ratio and ran no OMP there would be instances where your housings are starved of oil.

In practice how long would you have to engine brake for this to be a problem? I have no idea.

Jason

 

Neither do I., for certain. How much does someone engine brake? And from what rpm? I did pretty often from varying engine speeds, sometimes from pretty high rpm on the highway, which also meant being off-throttle for several seconds.
FWIW I started to premix with an ONP some 16 years and maybe 60k miles ago. I had just done a comprehensive rebuild for a failed coolant seal that included expensive new housings (that are about 2.5 time more expensive now). About the same time I also installed a simple boost-activated WI system. Back then I don’t think too many were doing both. Most just yanked the OMP if it was troublesome and went to premix. Others found some way to add a dedicated reservoir for 2-cycle. Nether held an appeal for me, but it’s a choice. At any rate I’m still rocking that engine. No compression figures but all these years and miles later, hot starts in the middle of a Midwest summer are no problem. Same cat, plugs life is about the same or better.