MattGold

iTrader: (108)

Tom - That WI tank is awesome! How did you run the lines back up? Just follow the fuel line path under the car?

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

Jim.... thanks! Appreciate the kudos

Matt, exactly. The line runs through the same opening as the fuel lines. My pump is located just above my rear diff. The lines come out of the pump and follow the fuel lines all the way up to the engine bay. I built 3 or 4 internal baffles in each tank to keep slosh to a minimum and the passenger side tank sits slightly higher than the drivers side to keep gravity doing it's job! Here's a pick of my cardboard mockup.







Gordon, thanks! I've struggled for years with which mods to DO and which to ignore. As you know, ultimately it comes down to personal taste and how we incorporate those ideas. Our cars are a culmination of years of sharing ideas, then choosing and putting our own spin on the ones that we find personally appealing. When I look at the SINGER cars I'm blown away by the simplicity and excellent execution of their ideas. It's what keeps me in the car hobby and motivated to always look at NEW ideas and solutions.

Tim

Johnny Kommavongsa

iTrader: (13)

where did you tuck the fan relay, air bag sensor and map sensor?

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

The fan relay cluster is tucked in front of the front wheel, right where the fender and bumper cover meet inside the fender liner.

The airbag sensor is in the same location as stock, I just ran the wiring inside the fender well where the stock main wiring harness is.

The MAP sensor is relocated right next to the ignitor on the drivers side of the engine bay.

Tabbasco

iTrader: (1)

Pound has dropped to the dollar, the kits is now $400 shipped, everyone on this thread should want these...

gio64

iTrader: (1)

I agree, and very interesting. I don't mean to sound stupid, but wouldn't it be possible to get these machined for a fraction of 200 British pounds?

Tabbasco

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it seems a travesty to pay $400 for a bunch of aluminum washers, but there is some serious engineering and metallurgy invested...think of the potential benefits of a stiffer chassis on your 20 year old sportscar!

gio64

iTrader: (1)

I agree with you 100%, it seems a simple, effective easy enough very effective yet subtle improvement. I am just wondering if it is possible to backwards-engineer these...
I contacted them and apparently they can do 185 (per end, front 185, rear 185). Shipping to Canada is about 25 pounds.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

There are a million other things that should be done to an FD before you'll ever notice any marginal difference made by those collars.

Andre The Giant

iTrader: (21)

Totally agree. I don't care much for that Prius video either. Complete malarkey.

Tabbasco

iTrader: (1)

PM me who you talked to...I have had trouble getting the same answer twice. 260 pounds is what I was quoted for 10 buyers.

To answer others questions, if u don't track your car then this only might add refinement to the car...a Singer inspired improvement. If it's tracked...this potentially adds a significant improvement for setup consistency.

My questions to you is under what authority do you disregard the engineering claims?

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

15 years tracking this car and the biggest issue regarding alignment in my experience is the rear camber bolts slipping. A spot weld will fix this but it's a PIA so I simply mark reset if necessary. If this had significant potential for big results a driver should be exp problems from subs moving.

250 US dollars is crazy and 400 is beyond crazy

One thing is certain you do see significant handling benefits with a quality weld in roll bar and outstanding benefits from a full cage. Bolt in bars help but are not as safe as a weld in.

These little washers may help somewhat but I doubt it would be noticed because again I don't think the subs on the FD move much.

Tabbasco

iTrader: (1)

Ok...you may be right that this may not be a big improvement. I have a friend who has done this on a tracked 350Z and he said there was a marked improvement and they were able to soften the suspension settings and improve mechanical grip...

It makes sense to me, and I track my car, so it's a small gamble for something that might improve the car.

MattGold

iTrader: (108)

This is such a good thread.

Can a mod please clean it up (move post 57-65) and leave the GB talk on the GB thread?

It's just a click away:
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-pr.../#post11857001

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Cool keep us posted this might be a great product but like the majority of aftermarket parts be weary of the placebo effect.

gio64

iTrader: (1)

I apologize, but I do not remember whom I spoke to. I was on their website and figured I'd chat with their helpdesk (or whatever it is called). He told me 200 per end (front and rear) and then he said his boss said they could do 185. After I asked for the shipping he said 25 to Canada. I'm not sure that means one end or both, but given that they weigh next to nothing, I don't think it would make a difference.
If this can be of any help, I was on the spoonsports website and not rigid collar.

And to comment on your note about effectiveness of this "mod", I agree 100%. In my case, at the moment I only have the desire to track but have not done anything in regards to that nor planned anything.
BUT, we are on a "refinement" type of thread, so, like you said, this is one of those little things that run along the way of Singer's thinking.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Banzai crossmember with rubber mount is an excellent upgrade that has zero negative effect. Just a smoother more stable shifter.

High quality short shifter. Mazdaspeed is excellent if you can find it.

Upgraded starter, recent thread on this in 3rd gen section.

I installed a touring rear windshield washer tank in my r2 for my Water/meth injection tank. The pump is mounted to the rear wall in the tire well. All hidden and utilizes the factory hole to pour in your choice of fluid. Tank is on the small side but they are easy to find and install.

I really like the Charlies7 coil relocation bracket. Looks great when installed and keeps the coils cooler, easy to access and really cleans up under the UIM.

For 93 guys on stock twins the black crossover pipe and intake elbow make a huge difference in the bay.

Delete AST, if you keep the coolant line going from rear iron to TB it is still easy to burp the system correctly.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the FD has a very robust chassis/suspension, Mazda foresaw that people would take em to the track and put big loads on the chassis, and they built the car to take them. do you every see/hear about even any issue with the FD chassis/suspension besides normal wear, and the camber bolts moving?

by contrast we raced an integra for quite a while, and that car has no structure, its just a metal box, and i can tell you we're exceeding the loads it was engineered for because we're popping spot welds, and the front of the car actually starts tearing in places.

with the collars, their test car is a Prius, and the results are dramatic. i am sure that they would help on an FD, but the test video would be really boring. if you were building a track FD, there is a list of stuff you need, and if these were on that list, they would be quite far down.

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

Good stuff and I think the later model FDs have a bigger rear washer tank

Fritz Flynn

iTrader: (263)

I agree

If the rear sub is moving it's nothing to worry about because that thing it bolted down SOLID.

The front may actually move some but again I doubt it or the alignment would suffer every time you entered the track.

gio64

iTrader: (1)

Great thread, lots of input for things I'll likely put on my list.

As far as these collars, I said this already, but would it be difficult to have them machined? I'm sure there's a number of people on this forum who have tools and know how to do them for a cheaper price...
Sorry for repeating myself, but nobody said... "I'll look into that".

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the thing i've learned from racing, is that the hardest part is to figure out what your problem(s) actually are. once you figure out the problem, the solution, is usually really simple.

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

With a set in hand, they could easily be 3D scanned or precision measured and brought in to CAD. I don't know how to do it, but I did some branding for 3D Systems so I know it can be done. In terms of metallurgy, I would think any soft metal would probably do the trick, the principle is pretty simple.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

+2...especially at that price. I'd bet only a very VERY few drivers are good enough to capitalize on it anyway.
The only caveat is that I'd get a later production. I understand those have the stalks that are insolated in rubber like OEM. The earlier ones did not, and transmitted a lot of gear noise, especially in 1st and 2nd.
It's still a good place for an aftermarket temp sensor too.

Tabbasco

iTrader: (1)

I just had an inspiration for our Singer inspired Rx7s ... We should run the Amati Logo that never was put into production...it is clean and pretty cool in it's own right.

I was afraid I was bugging Gordon too much on his logo, and also do not want to run the old emblem or current Mazda Emblem when I repaint her.

After all the Rx7 is the premium car that Mazda made in the 90s, and 93 was when Amati was supposed to debut.

We would have to run it upside down so it resembles a 7!