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Looking to pickup an original 93 touring FD in the next week or so. Its all original with less the 50k miles. Is it worth it to do the Reliability mods (mentioned on Robs site) or leave stock as it relates to maintaining value? I don't consider this an investment by any stretch but I also don't want to diminish the value.
I plan to keep the car for the next 10 years. It'll be mostly a weekend driver, cars n coffee and occasional canyon run.. nothing extreme by any means. Just enjoy the car for what it is.
I understand like most things in life, this is subjective. However, giving the current trend of values on these cars and concerns with reliability itll be good to hear what you owners (old and new) think. Thanks
If I were you I would just leave it alone if nothing is wrong with it.
I bought mine with 41k miles all stock and I started doing reliability mods and things started breaking one by one after I would work on it.
Maybe just a Aluminum AST when the stock one cracks.
Change Plugs & wires, Oil, Transmission fluid, Diff fluid, Fuel filter and Intake filter.
Check coolant.
Buy some 3.5mm or 4mm silicone hoses to keep on the side with also Viton check valves.
Atkins Rotary will have most solenoids and stuff if they ever go bad.
If I were you I would just leave it alone if nothing is wrong with it.
I bought mine with 41k miles all stock and I started doing reliability mods and things started breaking one by one after I would work on it.
Maybe just a Aluminum AST when the stock one cracks.
Change Plugs & wires, Oil, Transmission fluid, Diff fluid, Fuel filter and Intake filter.
Check coolant.
Buy some 3.5mm or 4mm silicone hoses to keep on the side with also Viton check valves.
Atkins Rotary will have most solenoids and stuff if they ever go bad.
You could also pre-mix to keep the engine happy
Thats a good point, "if ain't broke".. it seems it can be a double edge sword at times. These can be viewed as preventative but at the same time your story holds true.
I certainly plan to premix, Idemitsu seems alright?
I would suggest leaving it alone. The only thing that you "should" do is replace the time worn items with other stock/oem items. If you plan on making it an investment instead of an enjoyment then you cant treat it like like a car........ if that makes sense
I would suggest leaving it alone. The only thing that you "should" do is replace the time worn items with other stock/oem items. If you plan on making it an investment instead of an enjoyment then you cant treat it like like a car........ if that makes sense
investment vs enjoyment, good way to think about it. I struggle with that sometimes, especially because these cars can be so fun opened up just a touch.
The struggle is real! I picked up a 12k mile car recently. I read all this advice to mod, but I’ve decided to leave everything stock. Even the Bose. All my rubber is still soft, so just fluid changes is all I’m doing. At an anticipated maybe 500mi/yr, I figure it’ll be a while before I do much else...
The struggle is real! I picked up a 12k mile car recently. I read all this advice to mod, but I’ve decided to leave everything stock. Even the Bose. All my rubber is still soft, so just fluid changes is all I’m doing. At an anticipated maybe 500mi/yr, I figure it’ll be a while before I do much else...
😲 12k mi what a gem! I'll probably be around 1,000/yr.. im positive ill keep it stock. Its just the horror stories of the heat buildup from precats or vacuum hoses leaking amongst others.
If you intend to keep it that long and drive it, do the cooling mods. With the exception of vacuum line replacement, most are relatively easy to reverse. At the very least replace the original radiator and ast with another OEM unit. The other choice is to go with an all-metal aftermarket versions and store the originals.
At 50k a good look at things like the turbo coolant hoses is warranted. The S5 FC thermoswitch is absolutely invisible and p n p. Stuffing a little foam in the gaps around the radiator and IC duct won’t hurt originality either.
Replacing the OEM gear oil in the transmission and differential with a modern synthetic won’t hurt the investment unless you think the future buyer is THAT ****. And at 50k it’s probably ready. As are the OEM engine mounts.
If you’re keeping the OEM cat I’m not sure how it will tolerate long term premixing AND a working OMP. And you have CA emissions testing.
Looking to pickup an original 93 touring FD in the next week or so. Its all original with less the 50k miles. Is it worth it to do the Reliability mods (mentioned on Robs site) or leave stock as it relates to maintaining value? I don't consider this an investment by any stretch but I also don't want to diminish the value.
I plan to keep the car for the next 10 years. It'll be mostly a weekend driver, cars n coffee and occasional canyon run.. nothing extreme by any means. Just enjoy the car for what it is.
I understand like most things in life, this is subjective. However, giving the current trend of values on these cars and concerns with reliability itll be good to hear what you owners (old and new) think. Thanks
You can follow my approach in my build thread. I chose OEM where its available, and aftermarket when its a large improvement (like Koyo radiator and silicone vacuum.).
Mine had 46.000km / 28.000 miles on it when i got it. All oem parts removed are packed and stored, even if replaced by new OEM parts. https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...owlog-1060103/
How's the suspension? When I picked up my last Rx-7, a 49k mile 1995 model, it needed pillow ball bushings and sway bar end links and (although not suspension) motor mounts.
Interesting, I found myself wrestling with the same questions when I picked up a bone stock mint 15k mile R1 earlier this year.
The engine bay was pristine, soft rubber hoses, undercarriage was immaculate, no leaks / rattles, etc. It didn't really need anything
other than basic maintenance items (plugs, wires, fluids, and filters).
Initially, I had a laundry list of items I wanted to "upgrade" but in the end I just couldn't do it.
I ended up going with a few reversible reliability/safety mods including: koyo radiator, aluminum AST, HKS downpipe, and Sakebomb HID projectors.
Interesting, I found myself wrestling with the same questions when I picked up a bone stock mint 15k mile R1 earlier this year.
The engine bay was pristine, soft rubber hoses, undercarriage was immaculate, no leaks / rattles, etc. It didn't really need anything
other than basic maintenance items (plugs, wires, fluids, and filters).
Initially, I had a laundry list of items I wanted to "upgrade" but in the end I just couldn't do it.
I ended up going with a few reversible reliability/safety mods including: koyo radiator, aluminum AST, HKS downpipe, and Sakebomb HID projectors.
the downpipe and ast is most tempting. Just the amount of heat that DP produces is scary. IDK we'll see.
The downpipe and AST will prolong the life of the car. You can always keep the stock parts if you ever plan on selling the car and want to advertise it as 100% stock, but really, anyone who knows these cars won't have a problem with those two. The AST in particular is a ticking time bomb..
you can replace the AST with a new OEM part which will last many years. You can replace the downpipe with a JDM part, which is catless and still retains the factory heat shielding so you don't heat up the floor boards. That's what I ended up doing on my car. The car looks stock under the hood.
investment vs enjoyment, good way to think about it. I struggle with that sometimes, especially because these cars can be so fun opened up just a touch.
Life is too short to worry about a few bucks and not have the car you truly want. I've had a 100% stock FDs and meh... I find them slow and uninspiring, as they were chocked straight out of the factory but as soon as you let them breathe a little bit, they really come to life. These car IMO are best with some bolt-ons and a couple of lbs of boost above stock, nothing crazy and easily swappable back to stock.
Originally Posted by MarcZ55
the downpipe and ast is most tempting. Just the amount of heat that DP produces is scary. IDK we'll see.
Replace the pre-cat with a thermal wrapped DP and call it a day.
Originally Posted by Natey
The downpipe and AST will prolong the life of the car. You can always keep the stock parts if you ever plan on selling the car and want to advertise it as 100% stock, but really, anyone who knows these cars won't have a problem with those two. The AST in particular is a ticking time bomb..
This. There is a reason why they are called reliability mods especially on a car that is coming up on 30 years old. Exactly as Natey inferred about keeping your stock components so you can always put them back in. This isn't plastic surgery, it's just a simple bolt job.
The truth is people act like these engines are made out of paper. When in fact, if your car is in relatively stock form you can beat on it pretty good (as a street car) and not have to worry. It's the people that modify them incorrectly that give this car a bad rap.
Appreciate all the info.. initially ill probably keep all original but i can see nyself replacing the dp and ast sooner rather than later. Like most mentioned if need be i can switch those items back.. especially since I'm in So Cal. I gotta pass smog every 2 years Hopefully have the car in my possession in about a week.
Life is too short to worry about a few bucks and not have the car you truly want. I've had a 100% stock FDs and meh... I find them slow and uninspiring, as they were choked straight out of the factory but as soon as you let them breathe a little bit, they really come to life. These car IMO are best with some bolt-ons and a couple of lbs of boost above stock, nothing crazy and easily swappable back to stock...
Agree, especially at my age. You don’t even have to raise boost and you can still get almost 100 more hp with better reliability.
Originally Posted by Montego
The truth is people act like these engines are made out of paper.
Well...there was that stupid paper-thin UIM gasket.
investment vs enjoyment, good way to think about it. I struggle with that sometimes, especially because these cars can be so fun opened up just a touch.
Another thing to think about is the rotary engine. Don't baby that...um...baby. If you're not taking it up past 5000 rpm with some weight on the foot, then you're actually hurting the car.
Give it the old Italian Tune Up once in awhile. The RX-7 loves to rev.
It's a use it or lose it situation. Open up those ports and get that 2nd turbo working!.
You can always keep the stock parts if you ever plan on selling the car and want to advertise it as 100% stock, but really, anyone who knows these cars won't have a problem with those two. The AST in particular is a ticking time bomb.. 
