and youll be able to tune it yourself with a regular usb cable. probably the best part of this whole thing lol it also gives you the ability to have a tuner remote in if you wanted. takes a huge weight off with not having to worry about the tuning side of things.

 

You can definitely run a stock ecu with that setup however the rats nest will need resistor in the connectors to bypass any error codes. injectors might give you some problems trying to have a stable idle. A blown powerfc is a worst case scenario, my old setup up was the stock twins and all the bolt ons with a stock ecu, again it will work. If you have a multi meter check what the voltage is at the fuel pump with the key in the aux position and then check and see what the voltage is while cranking, needs at least 9-12v while cranking to turn over and maintain 12v or more when engine turns over. I see you already started but let's continue on with the basics before spending money.

 

Thanks for the input! Not sure you have read the complete thread but I think it has already been concluded my PFC is dead.
I don’t intend on running stock ECU. It should only verify my own was dead. However, I was lucky to borrow a PFC nearby

 

I'm not sure what a used PFC goes for these days, but it might be worth acquiring one and getting your tune moved to it so you can enjoy the car. Haltech is great, but it takes some doing to get everything you need, get it wired and installed, and tuned and running.

 

I think Michael Gagne on Facebook has been fixing PFC's. It's really just a blown transitor most times.

Dale

 

I have also thought about getting a replacement PFC. But I am located in Europe and the season for the old Mazda ends in 2-3 months anyways.

what do you mean it requires wiring? I see it as p&p or am I wrong?

https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-1...a-rx7-fd3s-s6/

 

I've had the same power fc in my car since 2012 (purchased used) and it's been just fine but should it fail, i will not be buying another one regardless of how simple a repair it may be.

The power fc is great and has its place in the community but when making the decision to buy another used one/getting your broken one repaired vs getting a new modern one.... the choice should be obvious. If it's within your means of course.

Buying a new power fc i wouldn't even consider as an option at all. For $1400 you're buying a combo vhs/dvd player with an rca to hdmi adapter over [insert modern technology].

I'm the biggest fan of the power fc in the milky way and I don't even think continuing with one is sensible. Using a stock ecu on a single turbo build with no omp and 850 primaries should not be advised in any way. Definitely a strong pursuit of trouble going that path.

Of course its ultimately his decision, we're just here to advise and suggest and in some cases argue amongst ourselves


(Edit)
The elite is plug and play with that adapter yes. It would be unplug the power fc and plug in the haltech. You would need to run a vacuum line to it but no other wiring or anything else is required. It also comes with a start up map. After configuring your base settings, you would be running again.

 

@mluu92 - I'm running into this same issue. Was wondering where you netted out with the solution?

What is a bit different for me is that it has suddenly become an intermittent problem, the Connection Error pops up on the FC Commander, and then will suddenly sort itself out and the car is fine. I thought it was a battery issue so I replaced the battery. A host of other issues sorted themselves out (e.g. my speedo was dead for the first part of most drives and then would suddenly awaken, that's no longer a problem) and I was able to drive the car for a full day no issues last week. Yesterday, car started perfectly fine, I backed it out of the garage and shut it off in the driveway. 8 hours later I went to move the car back in and the error popped up again! I haven't looked at the wiring etc, yet, that's on the radar for tonight.

Appreciate the thoughts.

 

@fstfwd mine turned out to be dead PFC.
i do not know if yours could be the same as the issues seem to come and go, but worth a shot if you know someone nearby with a working ecu

 

Yeah that's what has me puzzled at the moment. What did you end up going with, Haltech? How did that work out in terms of getting quickly back up and running.

 

@fstfwd luckily I sourced a used PFC in working condition and found a datalogit to borrow, so I was up and running for around 70$.
plan is still Haltech but not in the near future as there are other things requiring my attention (and money).

thinking back I believe mine had the connection error once or twice where I could turn ignition off and on to sort it - before it died completely

 

Thanks for sharing that info. I'm still holding out hope that maybe the unit isn't bad and that maybe there is just a power/electrical issue - will explain more in a moment. But last night I went through all the wiring last night and couldn't find any issues with wiring. I took the cover off the unit and a few pics of the interior of the board. At least from that view there is no visible damage to any of the components, no black shorted out or burned resisters, capacitors, etc. That of course could still mean there is some components failing internally.

I did try again a couple of times to get the ECU to boot up after manipulating everything, just incase it was a physical issue. Still the same problem. On a whim I decided to plug it into my battery conditioner overnight. This morning I turned the key to ON and the PowerFC came right back on / fully connected!! I didn't try to start the car as I was on my way to work, but that definitely is surprising that after specifically making sure the battery was topped off that it suddenly works. (?????!)

I'm inclined, at the moment, to first see if I can get my hands on a datalogit and if I can connect to the unit while it still works, and pull down my existing maps. I've never done this before, so I don't know how easy it is to connect to it, back the data up and then in theory get myself a replacement PFC unit to hold me over and remap that one. I'd appreciate any insight you can provide on that – full transparency I haven't researched the process yet either.

I then might consider looking to see if maybe it's my alternator? It's just very strange that things resolved themselves after the battery got fully charged.

Thanks so much.