pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

The temp. according to the PFC is what realy threw me.....It allways read between 85C, and 92C. I'm still seeing around the same tempatures....but without the problems. Is this just weird or what?? At this point, I'm giving Rob his back, and going to go buy a new one. CJ

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

I've been driving the car off and on this week. All seems good to go. I must say, this car freakin' rips! On low boost, I get tire spin all the way to the top of 3rd gear. This weekend I'll be taking it to the Woodburn Dragstrip Import races. I'm hoping for 120mph+ trap speeds. Thanks everyone for all the ideas, and help. CJ

clayne

Even better is that you solved and figured out the *source* of the problem.

Michael Filippello

I had a similar problem where the car would just go super rich will I was driving then act normal then after a while go real rich again. It really helps the trouble shooting when you have a wide band display in the cab. anyway, mine was a bad Intake air temp sensor. It was periodically failing and showing below 0 temp readings. Thus the computer was dumping fuel to compensate for the supposed cold air. Net effect, car went rich. Same can happen with a bad WTS. The fault should show itself on the commander though. huh.

I also had a case where I changed my altenator which was putting out the proper voltage to a new unit and had the weird experience of the exhaust note of the car sounding crisper. My buddy said I was just imagining things, but I know my car. It definately sounded stronger and crisper, just by switching altenators.

Mike

Bathurst

pp13bnos its good to hear that your problem got solved... I am having the same problem... my car does'nt want to go above 4000rpms when i installed the single... it would studder break up.... hesitate...

When i read your post about the solution i have got some hope now... Ok i checked my water sensor reading on the PowerFc commanders sensor check screen.. it shows .76v for the water temp sensor.. is'nt that low>?? could that be the problem..

need help bad.. very disappointed and dishearthened by the FD... I luv this car....

thanks

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

That does seem pretty low to me. But I don't know what kinda ambient tempatures you have in Pakistan. Maybe someone else will chime in with there voltage readings.

I should be getting my new WTS in a couple days/week. At that point I'll see what a brandnew WTS reads. CJ

PandazRx-7

iTrader: (18)

I had a bad water thermosensor and I had the opposite happen...engine ran fine above 4,000rpm. Below that it was completely unresponsive, super rich, bogging, etc.

rzograbian

if its a really bad hesitation, you are running very very rich.we were just trying to tune a single with a pfc last week and it bogged at 4k rpm and 6-8k rpm.... the afr's were in the 9's!!!!!! if you have a a/f meter (not the autometer strobe light ones), you can see what the car is doing and go from there. everyone would want a different afr but me i like it from 10.8-11.4 **** wont explode!

Bathurst

I have a defi copy needle a/f ratio monitor... it almost always reads rich...But i also feel that my car is running rich because the exhuast air is much cooler than it used to be... Is'nt that a sign that the car is rich?

I will be getting a 4 wire O2 sensor today.. is that what is called a wideband.. or does the widband have anything extra?? I will hook it up to my existing a/f ratio meter..

The meter does work on real time though not like the leds.. the needle responds to each and every movement of my right foot...

I have no idea how to tune the power fc and am **** scared... but the thing is i was running this same map on my twins before the rebuild and it ran fine.. but after the rebuild on the same map on the twins even it hesitated?? so i switched to a single setup thinking that the secondary turbo might have been shot when my old engine blew...

Now even on the single it is doing it... it did perform great for 2 days in between when someone told me that the wastegate was not hooked up correctly and i hooked it up correctly... but then i installed a resonator instead of a straight through mid pipe and things went back to the way they were and now even the mid pipe is back on the car.. the problem is still there...

Please help..I have tried to explain as much as i can..

Bathurst

Ok how do i check if a sensor is malfunctioning on the powerfc commander...

I just noticed today while driving the water temp sensor read .34v is that very low...

2FAST7S

Yet another FD with simiar problems! Mine however are way more pronounced! My car goes dead starting at around 2k while @ about 4 psi or so and theres just no way to rev it unless i back off the gas...once boost goes to less than 4psi it revs normally up the redline. If at any point before 5.5k rpm i try to go over 4 psi it bogs down. Once past the 5.5 rpm point, it goes almost normal sometimes it breaks up a bit.
I have noticed the stock temp sensor in the dash jumping up and down at times and have not checked sensors on PFC yet but from what i've read sounds like the WTS might be the cause. I was thinking it was a igintion or fuel problem, hell i thought it was the tuning...
If it is the WTS, will doing the change on the h2o temp corrections on the pfc cure the problem untill i get a sensor?
TIA,
Manny

clayne

Factory service manual documents all valid sensor ranges.