PhoenixDownVII

I just stumbled upon this thread, was wondering what this is in reference to...

I mean, stock twin setup is 10-8-10, my car does it fine...what mods do you have that manipulate this setup? Are you saying you had to reset it to 10-8-10 using this write up/method because things like a BOV, Intake, Dp, etc were throwing it off?

And is this on your MBM? Sorry Damian, I haven't always followed or checked this forum as far as work you've been up to

FDjunkie

damian, I'm testing a 4th option. I moved the stock pills to the loops that bypass the solenoids and placed the valves in the pills' original hoses. The affects seem to be that (1) it takes significantly less vented boost to move the actuators, and (2) spike control action seems improved.For those of you using other manual boost controls, you gota try damian’s approach. Transition is so FAST & SMOOTH that you can easily miss the event if your not watching your boost gauge. Also, boost doesn’t continue to change with temperature, etc. like some configurations.

PS – I modified a pair of Dawes valves (because I had them) to eliminate their vent hole and so their hose barbs matched those on the FD’s actuators. The picture shows most of what you might need to duplicate. The parts came from ACE hardware.

damian

iTrader: (2)

nice work :-)

PhoenixDownVII

Could you elaborate why all the diagrams and configurations to acheive a boost pattern the car does stock? Is this a way to set it up once you remove emissions/hoses? Etc etc?

Any info is greatly appreciated my man!

jayk

I can't speak for everyone else, but my car stock (just an adam_c style intake) had a nasty spike to 13psi or so in cold weather that made me uncomfortable. Since I was planning on adding a catback I decided a little extra boost control was in order. Now I get a perfect 10-8-10 with the catback in close to 0 temperatures. Which makes me alot more comfortable adding a downpipe soon...

DaveW

PhoenixDownVII,

The main reason we go to so much trouble to control boost with the stock ECU is that the stock system cannot control the boost once we start doing performance improvements (intake, IC, DP, cat-back, etc.), and the boost gets high enough to cause problems such as fuel-cut with the stock ECU.

A proper boost-control setup keeps the boost level in check, while still allowing the car to perform better than stock, even with a stock ECU.

PhoenixDownVII

Very well. Just as I thought., Thanks Dave.

damian

iTrader: (2)

basically the stock control system has problems controlling boost once you add somthing not stock that modifies the air flow or boost , like a down pipe, catback, et, et.... then the stock control system doesnt 'control' very well.

jameswrx

Interesting read.

I recently had a problem where my 2nd turbo would come in very hard at 1.2bar plus. My boost pattern was 0.75bar - 0.70bar - 1.2bar+

I replaced the wastegate control actuator line with a hose without a restrictor and also put a ball and spring boost controller in line. I did not cap off the other nipple on the wastegate actuator so it's still connected to the boost control solenoid.

I'm now getting 075bar - 0.70bar - 0.80bar

when the 2nd turbo comes in it's now acceptable boost and the biggest spike I've recorded on my defi's is 0.85bar (and it was like 0 degrees celcius when I tested) which I thought was a huge improvement.

Now reason I've brought this post up again is because I keep reading about capping off the other nipple on the actuator. My boost controller is fully open really, will I be able to get even better control with the nipple capped?.

I was also thinking about adding anothe MBC in the pre control line, I was thinking about keeping the pill in the pre control line too (as I understand it's the restriction of the pill that keeps the spike down in pre control as opposed to the wastegate where the restriction pill makes a spike) or is it better to have no pill in the pre control?

rx7girlTK

this is kind of off topic but will i be ok with jsut an avc-r set at 10psi if i ahve an intake,dp,and cat back?

1234rotor

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys....

So are you guys saying that you are using the vent lines (going to the solenoids) leading to atmosphere with say a .035" or so restrictor hole? (I don't remember the stock restrictor's hole size)

I first did mine with the hoses looped, bypassing the solenoids and it never opened the wastegate I guess, because it was going above 1 bar. I then re-attached the hoses and it went to somewhat normal again but acts strange sometimes.

Basically, I am now figuring out that I need to just run a restrictor pill in the "solenoid side" hoses, that vent to the atmosphere so that the wastegates will close? Otherwise I should just cap the solenoid side nipples, and drill little breather holes in the outlet of my boost controllers? That is how the one website shows to do it, by drilling .020" holes in the 90degree brass barb fitting so that the wastegate/pre-control flaps will close. I built mine identical to these, but I have yet to drill the vent holes: http://www.gusmahon.org/html/boostcontrol.htm

jayk

Somebody else will probably explain this better than me, but when I did mine I just put the boost controllers in the hose coming off the turbo and into the wastegate actuator, then I removed the hose connected to the other side of the actuator and capped the nipple. There are no restrictor pills left anywhere in the system and the solenoids are completely out of the loop. I did the same with the pre-control and everything works fine.

Somewhere earlier in this thread there are good pictures of what needs to be done...

pfgasket

Has anyone decided what the best solution to the problem is? Damian you started this, and have lived with it the longest, what do you think?

DaveW

I think it works great!

Thank you, Damian!

Check my post on this system - "Results using dual ball-spring boost controllers"

fd3typer2

I have just done mine and after a lot of adjustment it works great. I capped the actuators and bypassed the solenoids.

On the first try I did not cap them and was getting 7-5-7 boost pattern.

With the pre-control controller wound out too far I was getting lower primary boost than secondary. Its tricky to adjust that sucker!

Very happy though. THANK YOU DAMIAN!

DSMguywantsFD

any idea if this setup would work properly with 99 spec turbos? i get a spike of 12psi when the secondary kicks in, it gets me a little scared when i see it.