Hesitation Problem - NOT a ground problem I don't think

 
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Old 11-01-01, 06:25 AM
  #26  
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Ok, solenoid A is the fuel pressure regulator solenoid




Now regarding the hesitation, have you checked your coils? Loose or bad connectors will also cause the engine to hesitate as if you are getting an ignition cut.

Have you checked out this site? Check out the ignition troubleshooting section
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/h...lectrical.html

Last edited by Flybye; 11-01-01 at 06:34 AM.
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Old 11-01-01, 09:01 AM
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This may help clear things up if it'll work
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Old 11-01-01, 10:55 AM
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Originally posted by trust7
I have not had a chance to try this but I am hoping to try the bypass method this weekend, unfortuneately my car has a MazdaSpeed Carbon Fiber hood on it, so there is NO solenoid diagram that I can refer to, can you give me another method of finding it ?
Emailed you dude
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Old 11-01-01, 04:29 PM
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I had an email or two but I cannot find this thing, someone help.


All I see on the left side of the engine bay is TURBOS lol.



and I don't see the hook for grabbing the engine, where am I looking wrong....
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Old 11-01-01, 04:53 PM
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Ok I got the black and white pic from Scud site, I got the bmp that had the writing "its the one marked A" on it also but that pic was too small, whoever posted that one can you post the FULL size hi-res pic of that one, I used to HAVE that plastic diagram IRL, but lost it while back hehehe. Ok so if I understand this correct this solenoid IS under the manifold but it is far enough back toward the firewall where I can just get to it.

Going to look again now.brb.
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Old 11-01-01, 10:03 PM
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It wont let me post it any larger for some reason. But try this.
http://home.istar.ca/~dvandit/vacuum.jpg

It is marked as "A", you'll have to pull one line off the top, and one from the passanger side of it. Once you get them both off just connect the two together with copper tubing.
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Old 11-02-01, 02:32 AM
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Do you have to take the top half of the manifold off OR WHAT ????

I canNOT get to any solenoid under the manifold, theres no way, I can't barely see the regulator, or what I THINK is the regulator, I see ONE thing with a vacuum line going into it by the rear of the top half of the manifold but that is connected to the airpump.


WTF ????????
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Old 11-02-01, 05:13 PM
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Manifold from Pass Side for reference make sure I am looking at it right.
http://rcs7.com/images/929/manifold1.jpg

Bolt on bottom of picture is close to pass side of manifold, vacuum line out of funky looking thing there, like my technical terms
http://rcs7.com/images/929/manifold2.jpg

Pulled back picture of same with light.
http://rcs7.com/images/929/manifold3.jpg

Zoomed in picture same thing.
http://rcs7.com/images/929/manifold4.jpg

Detailed Picture of what I think is what, HELP!
http://rcs7.com/images/929/manifold3detail.jpg
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Old 11-04-01, 07:06 AM
  #34  
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Ok, under the manifold detail picture there is a vacuum line, I pulled that, it feels REAL short like it goes to something right there under the manifold, like the solenoid, but I am not positive, I plugged the vacuum line that came off, and put a vacuum line straight from the manifold to that connection on the thing in the picture, went drove it, and no dice. Bogs 100 percent of the time OVER 4500 rpm no matter how much or little gas I give it and still bogs at ANY rpm if its given more than a little over 1/4 pedal.


So in essence same crap.


If I understand this right this is to take the solenoid itself out of being suspect is this correct ?

Was that the only point of this exercise ?
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Old 11-04-01, 07:08 AM
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Crap, in looking closer at the hoses.gif posted earlier it looks as though I bypassed the ACV, can someone tell me for sure if bypassing the PRESSURE solenoid requires manifold removal ?

Crap this is nuts. I don't even want to think about how much money is in the two motors that have gone out during all this.

sigh.
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Old 11-04-01, 09:50 AM
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just remove the manifold, it is not that hard and once you did it, you know your car alot more.

go to rob robinnette site if you are not sure how to. Get a buddy to do it with you.

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Old 11-05-01, 08:37 PM
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By the way, it wasn't the solenoid, I bypassed it and still does it.


WTF ?????????



What else to try now, this is driving me nuts.
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Old 11-05-01, 11:28 PM
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i beging to think my earlier post make more sense

read my earlier post.

about the oil meter pump and also do yourself a favor before buying the oil meter pump

call this place in houston called maz-max and ask for (brian)
ask him if the oil meter pump problem also aplyes for 3rd gens

the phone # is 713-896-8005

do not drive the car like that anymore till fixed
or if brian said it doesnt apply to yours.
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Old 11-06-01, 04:16 AM
  #39  
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The OMP Lines do have oil in both and it looks like its flowing ok, the OMP lines are new and the OMP injectors are new also, the pump isn't throwing any error codes so....
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Old 11-06-01, 10:06 PM
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You said you have lost two motors with this going on?

Who installed your engine, and what on the engine was replaced with a new part ( i.e. washers, fuel lines, coolant hoses)?
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Old 11-07-01, 06:06 AM
  #41  
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Im not going to say who put the motor in because he is a personal friend and a DAMN good mechanic, just without enough time in the world to fix everything


But as far as whats new, EVERYTHING.

alot of sensors, hoses, vacuum lines, sheez the list is HUGE.


If anyone has any other thoughts before it goes to the shop, I am gonna give a local shop a shot at finding the problem because I am at wits end. I did get the service manual and it has some trouble shooting steps in it I might work on before and see.

But I will let you guys know for sure what it was.


C
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Old 11-07-01, 05:48 PM
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I was having serious hesitaions over 4500, just when the second turbo was coming on. I thought it was bad gas, but whatever brand I used made no difference. Well I just passed it off as a boost problem that I would fix later. Later came sooner than I wanted in the form of a blown rear apex seal.

I took the engine out and and tore it down and both rotors were beat to hell and gone, front rotor seals were chipped...all of them, rear apex seal completely gone and the other two chipped. Why in the hell was it detonating so much...I couldn't figure it out. Fast forward 1 year and 2 months later I get around to installing the new engine and swithching all the external over to the new one.

While cleaning the lower intake manifold I took a look at the air bleed sockets for the secondaries and I found why I was having the hesitaion problems. At the bottom of the bleed socket there are about 10-12 pin size holes..like a salt shaker. They were almost completely closed from carbon and sludge. So only a little gas was going through them and I was doing some serious detonating. Oh by the way the car was completely stock.

If you replaced nothing on the lower intake manifold you may want to look at those bleed sockets.

later,
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