fuel filer install instructions
08-13-01, 10:42 AM
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fuel filer install instructions
I finally replaced my fuel filter this weekend after being scared from all the horror stories I have heard. It wasn't nearly as bad as expected and took less than 45 minutes; including putting the car on stands. Here is my recommended step by step procedure.
1) Start the engine and release the fuel pressure by pulling the circuit opening relay or the fuel pump fuse.
2) Put rear of car on stands or ramps.
3) Drop the splash sheilds on each side in front of the rear wheels. The right one is metal, the left one plastic.
4) Crawl under the car so your feet stick out the back and look above the left side of the diff; there is the notorious fuel filter.
5) The filter has two lines. One curves around the front of the filter and one connects directly to the right side. Remove the line that curves around the front first. You can get your arm up behind the axle and onto the line without much trouble. Gas will probably dribble onto you. Haven't solved that one yet...
6) The other line is much more difficult to get at unless you remove the filter from its bracket. There is room above the subframe to get these two bolts out with a short extension on your ratchet, the filter is now free except for the other fuel line still attached. This line is looped and so has some slack in it, by removing the two bolts on the filter bracket you can now slide everything to the left a few inches and then you can remove this clamp much more easily.
7) Reach one hand up around each side of the diff. Hold the filter with your left and the fuel line with your right. Twist the line on the filter while pulling and it will slip off. More gas will dribble on you.
8) I recommend replacing the factory spring type tension clamps with regular screw clamps; they will be easier to get on and off in the future.
9) Swap the mounting bracket onto your new filter and make sure you have it oriented properly.
10) Lube the nipples on the new filter so the lines slip on easier. A little bit of dish soap works well, as does spit if you forgot the soap inside and have now shimmied back under the car.
11) Slip your new clamps over the lines and as they say; installation is the reverse of removal.
12) Prime the fuel system before starting. Pop the cover on the diagnostic connector and find the terminals labeled "GND" and "F/P". Jumper them together and then turn on the key for about 10 seconds. Remove the jumper and then start the car. With the engine running check for leaks before letting the rear end back down.
13) Change your shirt before having contact with anyone not directly involved with working on the car.
1) Start the engine and release the fuel pressure by pulling the circuit opening relay or the fuel pump fuse.
2) Put rear of car on stands or ramps.
3) Drop the splash sheilds on each side in front of the rear wheels. The right one is metal, the left one plastic.
4) Crawl under the car so your feet stick out the back and look above the left side of the diff; there is the notorious fuel filter.
5) The filter has two lines. One curves around the front of the filter and one connects directly to the right side. Remove the line that curves around the front first. You can get your arm up behind the axle and onto the line without much trouble. Gas will probably dribble onto you. Haven't solved that one yet...
6) The other line is much more difficult to get at unless you remove the filter from its bracket. There is room above the subframe to get these two bolts out with a short extension on your ratchet, the filter is now free except for the other fuel line still attached. This line is looped and so has some slack in it, by removing the two bolts on the filter bracket you can now slide everything to the left a few inches and then you can remove this clamp much more easily.
7) Reach one hand up around each side of the diff. Hold the filter with your left and the fuel line with your right. Twist the line on the filter while pulling and it will slip off. More gas will dribble on you.
8) I recommend replacing the factory spring type tension clamps with regular screw clamps; they will be easier to get on and off in the future.
9) Swap the mounting bracket onto your new filter and make sure you have it oriented properly.
10) Lube the nipples on the new filter so the lines slip on easier. A little bit of dish soap works well, as does spit if you forgot the soap inside and have now shimmied back under the car.
11) Slip your new clamps over the lines and as they say; installation is the reverse of removal.
12) Prime the fuel system before starting. Pop the cover on the diagnostic connector and find the terminals labeled "GND" and "F/P". Jumper them together and then turn on the key for about 10 seconds. Remove the jumper and then start the car. With the engine running check for leaks before letting the rear end back down.
13) Change your shirt before having contact with anyone not directly involved with working on the car.
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trickster
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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07-01-23 04:40 PM
