i just blew my rear rotor while not even totally hammering on it. i was under 5500rpms, about 6-7psi, in 3rd gear just kinda punched it. then i let off and discovered i cracked a seal on the rear rotor. i was watching the AEM wideband during this, and it was pegged on "rich" (sub 11.0:1) and right before i let off it was around 11.2-11.4:1

as far as timing, i'm running 18* at 10psi with a 9-10 degree split cause i figured i'd run a little safe until i could pay for the services of a REAL tuner (since obviously i'm lacking in that department)

now what i'm thinking is, obviously i'm not going to see any crazy preignition or detonation with low intake temps, safe timing, and sub-11.0:1 AFRs... could i have had a mismatched pulley this whole time and not known it?

 

Your best bet is to pull the hub and mark it, so that you can see where TDC is at even when the pulleys are installed; that should give you an idea how far off your pulley timings might be. That or get a RB pulley with the ATC -10 to 0 to +10 marks (& 20BTC )

 

Was the car running good before it blew?
Or was it slow?

Can you confirm your HOME and TRIGGER leads are wired correctly?


-Ted

 

it was running great. i was running the stock turbo until shortly after the break-in and it ran awesome, beat my buddie's modded STi while i was on 9psi. then the turbo blew cause my ports are pretty big..

yes, i've had the haltech wired up and everything worked great on the previous engine (til i ran it lean, yeah i'm an idiot)
but i need to figure out whats going on here, i'm giving turbo rotaries a bad name

 

also, can anyone find a RB crank pulley for me? i looked all over their site and i cant find one...

 

It's an underdrive pulley, just so you know and in case you were wondering.

It's under the "cooling system" section on RB's site.

Also, you'll have to create your own marks for timing, because the mark would normally be in between 2 of the notches RB provides. Like where I have added a red mark in the instructions for the pulley from RB, that's what I did for mine.

 

now the question is:
about the 'mismatched pulley' thing... how exactly would this pulley fix it? i mean, doesnt it only bolt on one way too? if the pulley hub has the wrong bolt hole alignment for the hubs orientation with the woodruff key, wouldnt it still have the same problem?

 

Stock system has a hub and then the pulleys bolt to that. RB system is pulley/hub built in one and lines up with the key like the stock hub does.

 

You can find stock timing marks on ANY pully, not just an RB.

Remove both rear plugs...use a mirror/flashlight to center an apex seal in the T hole, mark the pully...repeat for the L hole. Measure halfway in between. Mark the pulley. This is tdc, so to speak. Now, use a degree wheel to add 5*atdc for stock timing. Now you can zero out everything like stock and start over.

 

could i just buy a stock pulley/hub combo instead?

 

yes, so long as you can know for sure it's not been altered from stock. Hubs and pullies were marked as a combo...so even though other pullies will bolt to other hubs, the marks will then be off. As an interesting note, the actual timing of all the engines is the same, pretty much exactly 90* off of the e-shaft key.

 

Sorry about your motor(s), lol. At least you're gaining superior knowledge...