For you older guys that have had your car for a while...
06-28-04, 09:55 PM
#26
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So, J-Rat, I've got a good idea already from the above posts, but would you care to add your thoughts about which electrical unit will fail first?
06-28-04, 10:11 PM
#28
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Originally posted by J-Rat
, wiper switch...
All of these I have had fail, and will probably fail on your car at some time or another.
, wiper switch...
All of these I have had fail, and will probably fail on your car at some time or another.
06-28-04, 10:12 PM
#29
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Your three choices were alternator, starter, and fuel pump...I didn't see any of those in your answer...You need to quit reading so fast, you're missing the important parts 
...I took the power steering computer out just last month (along with some wiring), another .25 lbs off the car...
...I took the power steering computer out just last month (along with some wiring), another .25 lbs off the car...
06-28-04, 10:23 PM
#30
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Originally posted by J-Rat
Take your pick.. Logicon, warning lights, power steering computer, blower motor for the fan, headlight switch, wiper switch...
All of these I have had fail, and will probably fail on your car at some time or another.
Take your pick.. Logicon, warning lights, power steering computer, blower motor for the fan, headlight switch, wiper switch...
All of these I have had fail, and will probably fail on your car at some time or another.
I think you don;t like me anymore Even though I stock all those things in my webstore...
06-28-04, 10:28 PM
#31
Originally posted by Icemark
HMMM, and you never ordered a rebuilt wiper switch, or rebuilt Logicon, or rebuilt warning lights, or rebuilt headlight switch.. from me I think you don;t like me anymore Even though I stock all those things in my webstore...
HMMM, and you never ordered a rebuilt wiper switch, or rebuilt Logicon, or rebuilt warning lights, or rebuilt headlight switch.. from me
I think you don;t like me anymore Even though I stock all those things in my webstore...
I need a drivers side power window switch, wiper switch, warning cluster, and logicon...
06-28-04, 10:29 PM
#33
Originally posted by WAYNE88N/A
Your three choices were alternator, starter, and fuel pump...I didn't see any of those in your answer...You need to quit reading so fast, you're missing the important parts...I took the power steering computer out just last month (along with some wiring), another .25 lbs off the car...
Your three choices were alternator, starter, and fuel pump...I didn't see any of those in your answer...You need to quit reading so fast, you're missing the important parts
...I took the power steering computer out just last month (along with some wiring), another .25 lbs off the car...
Fuel pump? Ditto, not generally a high fail item.
And if you deleted the PS computer, good on ya. This is just general gee whiz information that anyone can use. It wasnt meant to be exclusive to "Wayne's" FC.
06-29-04, 07:22 PM
#34
Rotary Freak
BLKTOPTRVL- my OEM oil cooler lines sprung a leak on me at about 150,000- that would be a good idea to swap in some new ones. Nothing gets your attention quicker than a "low oil" warning buzzer going off on you while you're toting down the highway at 70 mph!
06-29-04, 08:27 PM
#35
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Originally posted by WAYNE88N/A
LOL, now answer the original question posted, j9fd3s, you've been around a while, what goes first, alternator, starter, or fuel pump???
LOL, now answer the original question posted, j9fd3s, you've been around a while, what goes first, alternator, starter, or fuel pump???
06-29-04, 08:34 PM
#36
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So the 20B's kill the 13B starters? That might make sense, little bit more weight to get spooled up...Or are you talking about your starters on a 13B?...I think the general consensus now is that the alt's go first...
06-29-04, 08:39 PM
#37
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Originally posted by WAYNE88N/A
So the 20B's kill the 13B starters? That might make sense, little bit more weight to get spooled up...Or are you talking about your starters on a 13B?...I think the general consensus now is that the alt's go first...
So the 20B's kill the 13B starters? That might make sense, little bit more weight to get spooled up...Or are you talking about your starters on a 13B?...I think the general consensus now is that the alt's go first...
06-30-04, 08:27 PM
#38
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If we're talking strictly electrical components, they are about even.
You can kill a starter very easily if you don't know about safe operation.
Don't crank more than 5 seconds (10 seconds MAX) at a time.
Let the starter rest around a minute in between crankings.
If you don't, overheating the starter is very easy.
I only recommend replacing the starters and alternators with Mazda OEM reman units. Crap from (big) auto parts chains are not even worth the "lifetime guarantee". Once, we've gone through FOUR starters from the local NAPA and Car Quest auto parts stores with their lifetime guarantee, and the time we wasted swapping the "old" parts out and driving back to the store is not worth it. The Mazda OEM remans are a bit pricey, but they work all the time on the first try.
Coolant hoses I try to replace every 3 years or about 30k miles.
I'm a bit **** about this kinda stuff.
-Ted
You can kill a starter very easily if you don't know about safe operation.
Don't crank more than 5 seconds (10 seconds MAX) at a time.
Let the starter rest around a minute in between crankings.
If you don't, overheating the starter is very easy.
I only recommend replacing the starters and alternators with Mazda OEM reman units. Crap from (big) auto parts chains are not even worth the "lifetime guarantee". Once, we've gone through FOUR starters from the local NAPA and Car Quest auto parts stores with their lifetime guarantee, and the time we wasted swapping the "old" parts out and driving back to the store is not worth it. The Mazda OEM remans are a bit pricey, but they work all the time on the first try.
Coolant hoses I try to replace every 3 years or about 30k miles.
I'm a bit **** about this kinda stuff.
-Ted
06-30-04, 09:12 PM
#39
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LOL, I'm the same way, Ted, and that's a good thing...We don't break down on the side of the road very much, do we? And yes, won't install anything but OEM reman parts- only the best for my baby...
06-30-04, 09:40 PM
#40
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Originally posted by RETed
If we're talking strictly electrical components, they are about even.
You can kill a starter very easily if you don't know about safe operation.
Don't crank more than 5 seconds (10 seconds MAX) at a time.
Let the starter rest around a minute in between crankings.
If you don't, overheating the starter is very easy.
I only recommend replacing the starters and alternators with Mazda OEM reman units. Crap from (big) auto parts chains are not even worth the "lifetime guarantee". Once, we've gone through FOUR starters from the local NAPA and Car Quest auto parts stores with their lifetime guarantee, and the time we wasted swapping the "old" parts out and driving back to the store is not worth it. The Mazda OEM remans are a bit pricey, but they work all the time on the first try.
Coolant hoses I try to replace every 3 years or about 30k miles.
I'm a bit **** about this kinda stuff.
-Ted
If we're talking strictly electrical components, they are about even.
You can kill a starter very easily if you don't know about safe operation.
Don't crank more than 5 seconds (10 seconds MAX) at a time.
Let the starter rest around a minute in between crankings.
If you don't, overheating the starter is very easy.
I only recommend replacing the starters and alternators with Mazda OEM reman units. Crap from (big) auto parts chains are not even worth the "lifetime guarantee". Once, we've gone through FOUR starters from the local NAPA and Car Quest auto parts stores with their lifetime guarantee, and the time we wasted swapping the "old" parts out and driving back to the store is not worth it. The Mazda OEM remans are a bit pricey, but they work all the time on the first try.
Coolant hoses I try to replace every 3 years or about 30k miles.
I'm a bit **** about this kinda stuff.
-Ted
06-30-04, 11:05 PM
#42
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Originally posted by RETed
-Ted
-Ted
07-01-04, 08:38 AM
#43
Thought I'd reply as I purchased my '89TII new. The dealer, under warranty replaced the logicon 3 times before finding a loose ground wire, also driver's side pw switch.
I replaced the driveshaft at 120,000 miles, wiper switch in 2002 but everything else is original, even the suspension and mufflers, not including normal maintanence items. Engine replaced @ 155,000 (2002) as well as all hoses, coolant, vacuum, and omp tubes as they were about worn through.
The only problem now is that maybe once every 6 months the dash lights will be out, but heck, that started about 7 years ago.
I replaced the driveshaft at 120,000 miles, wiper switch in 2002 but everything else is original, even the suspension and mufflers, not including normal maintanence items. Engine replaced @ 155,000 (2002) as well as all hoses, coolant, vacuum, and omp tubes as they were about worn through.
The only problem now is that maybe once every 6 months the dash lights will be out, but heck, that started about 7 years ago.
07-01-04, 11:00 AM
#44
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Originally posted by WAYNE88N/A
LOL, I'm the same way, Ted, and that's a good thing...We don't break down on the side of the road very much, do we? And yes, won't install anything but OEM reman parts- only the best for my baby...
LOL, I'm the same way, Ted, and that's a good thing...We don't break down on the side of the road very much, do we? And yes, won't install anything but OEM reman parts- only the best for my baby...
07-27-04, 02:07 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
Your three choices were alternator, starter, and fuel pump...I didn't see any of those in your answer...You need to quit reading so fast, you're missing the important parts ...I took the power steering computer out just last month (along with some wiring), another .25 lbs off the car...
...I took the power steering computer out just last month (along with some wiring), another .25 lbs off the car...When I replaced the alternator it was apparently due to a diode in it went bad. Or so the test machine said.
07-27-04, 02:40 PM
#46
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I say buy as many left door handles as you can afford for future replacement. Everytime I go to the wrecking yard I look for them. They are ususally missing on the drivers side....for a good reason.
I've never had a bad fuel pump, but the STRAINER NEEDS to be cleaned/devarnished every??????? I know if I had one of these cars and had never replaced or cleaned it, I'd get out there tomorrow morning and get with the program.
It never hurt to have a spare relay for the wiper switch.......or know how to jumper the blue/white wire and ground it if your caught away from home on a rainy day.
If you had a series one....I'd recommend carrying a couple of shutter valves around in the glove compartment.
Fuel injector grommets get rockhard and leak air after a decade or so.
Spare radiator caps never hurt.
Install a series five alt and keep the series four as a spare.
I've only had one tps that showed a problem...not a issue with me. Lucky I guess.
Driveshaft have given me problems, but not after their replacement.
Transmission in the 87na gave me problems and had to be replaced .......suspect previous owner was not familiar with lubricants and their usage.
And actually, the ACV should be looked at if you had a turbo car. The diaphrams cook in a turbo and don't work in the cooked condition. Especially the one for split air. That does not seem to apply as much to a na. The na after a decade or more seem to develop a leak in the anti-afterburn valve and leak air into the intake when it should not, especially at idle. Messes up a good idle..
Did I mention wiper switch? Yes. Wiper switches relay. Bum part.
Sorry...didn't read all the posts. Exercising the fingers.
I've never had a bad fuel pump, but the STRAINER NEEDS to be cleaned/devarnished every??????? I know if I had one of these cars and had never replaced or cleaned it, I'd get out there tomorrow morning and get with the program.
It never hurt to have a spare relay for the wiper switch.......or know how to jumper the blue/white wire and ground it if your caught away from home on a rainy day.
If you had a series one....I'd recommend carrying a couple of shutter valves around in the glove compartment.
Fuel injector grommets get rockhard and leak air after a decade or so.
Spare radiator caps never hurt.
Install a series five alt and keep the series four as a spare.
I've only had one tps that showed a problem...not a issue with me. Lucky I guess.
Driveshaft have given me problems, but not after their replacement.
Transmission in the 87na gave me problems and had to be replaced .......suspect previous owner was not familiar with lubricants and their usage.
And actually, the ACV should be looked at if you had a turbo car. The diaphrams cook in a turbo and don't work in the cooked condition. Especially the one for split air. That does not seem to apply as much to a na. The na after a decade or more seem to develop a leak in the anti-afterburn valve and leak air into the intake when it should not, especially at idle. Messes up a good idle..
Did I mention wiper switch? Yes. Wiper switches relay. Bum part.
Sorry...didn't read all the posts. Exercising the fingers.
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