Yet another turbo question...but a little more interesting I think...
Is there a way to run without a AFM? It seems like life would be a whole lot easier.
Hehe... Me = noob
Sometimes
It seems like if you were to run standalone you could run something different than a AFM. Such as a MAF off a newer car or such.
Hehe... Me = noob
Sometimes

It seems like if you were to run standalone you could run something different than a AFM. Such as a MAF off a newer car or such.
Originally Posted by Mason Rx7
Is there a way to run without a AFM? It seems like life would be a whole lot easier.
Hehe... Me = noob
Sometimes
It seems like if you were to run standalone you could run something different than a AFM. Such as a MAF off a newer car or such.
Hehe... Me = noob
Sometimes

It seems like if you were to run standalone you could run something different than a AFM. Such as a MAF off a newer car or such.
Originally Posted by Makenzie71
Wouldn't the air on the pressure side, being denser and moving faster, cause the AFM door to read higher?
Last edited by NZConvertible; Oct 27, 2005 at 05:36 AM.
Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Not sure which T25 they use, but the largest I can find info on flows about 38lbs/min combined, which should be somewhat ok up to around 14psi.
Cause a GT2835 does about 40 lb/min, and I find it hard to believe a smaller, non-GT-series turbo could flow that much...
T3 "Super 60" does 35, so you sure it was "38" and not "28"?

http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gat3su.html
-Ted
Last edited by RETed; Oct 27, 2005 at 08:55 AM.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
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From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Originally Posted by RETed
Do you happen to know the turbine A/R on that 38 lb/min turbo?
Cause a GT2835 does about 40 lb/min, and I find it hard to believe a smaller, non-GT-series turbo could flow that much...
-Ted
Cause a GT2835 does about 40 lb/min, and I find it hard to believe a smaller, non-GT-series turbo could flow that much...
-Ted
Last edited by SonicRaT; Oct 27, 2005 at 09:00 AM.
Originally Posted by NZConvertible
I just posted what they were.
Originally posted by marklar182 from 300zxClub:
From nismo catalog for part #'s 14411-40P04 and 14411-40P13
Compressor:
T25 housing
A/R .48
T25 Wheel 60trim
Turbine:
T2 Housing
Manual- A/R .63
Auto- A/R .54 (This is for quick spool on the auto, but less top end.)
T2 Wheel 65trim (on manual Auto same?)
270deg Thrust bearing
Hell, give them a shot...according to those specs they are bigger than they looked (to me). I guess I'm just used to looking at the "huge" (relatively) turbos on rotaries.
They're good for ~400 whp on a Z32...I couldn't find any info on how much air they flow.
BOOSTED Vert
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,307
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From: Miami
Originally Posted by RETed
Zenki Z32's were rated at 300.
Kouki Z32's were rated at 320.
I still think the reason the VG30 went twins was cause of the V-configuration of the engine - it just was more practical than running all the pipes into a single - ala Grand National plumbing nightmare!
-Ted
Kouki Z32's were rated at 320.
I still think the reason the VG30 went twins was cause of the V-configuration of the engine - it just was more practical than running all the pipes into a single - ala Grand National plumbing nightmare!
-Ted
Last edited by MARTIN; Oct 27, 2005 at 10:46 AM.
BOOSTED Vert
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From: Miami
Originally Posted by Makenzie71
I will be getting an SAFC so I suppose the only thing the AFM is going to be there for anyway is to keep the ECU happy. Ultimately, ANYTHING that frees up things in front of the turbos I'm all for.
Originally Posted by MARTIN
Without the AFM you wouldnt be able to use the SAFC. Its not there "Just to keep the ECU happy". The safc changes the signal that the afm sends to the ecu.. If you want to get rid of the afm, get a standalone... ITs not as expensive as it used to be and definately worth every single penny.
BOOSTED Vert
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,307
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From: Miami
Originally Posted by Makenzie71
I'm not interested in getting rid of the AFM and a good stand-alone is still over $1000...especially if you put tuning into the mix.
its pretty cool that you're tyin to ball on a budget here, but i really think its gonna be over-complicated and not make enough results to be justify all that fabrication, especially when you can get the same power goal and spool accomplished with a stock turbo
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
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From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
I figure it'd be similar to a stage2 hybrid, good for roughly 300rwhp before it runs out of steam. Spool is who knows, if just adding the two together gives any idea I'd think it'd be similar to stock.
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
its pretty cool that you're tyin to ball on a budget here, but i really think its gonna be over-complicated and not make enough results to be justify all that fabrication, especially when you can get the same power goal and spool accomplished with a stock turbo
Turbos ~ $125 shipped to me (thanks jason!!)
Tubing ~ $20 worth, if that much, including hardpipes, downpipes and exhaust.
Plus, I'm going to try and design this around the S4 N/A intake assembly so that I might have a marketable kit.
From my point of view, I'm not out much money, it's only going to require 1 afternoon to fabricate everything and I might be able to make a decent bit of change from it later on. The only things I'm really making that aren't in the norm are the turbo manifold (incredibly easy with a plasma cutter) and the Y pipe for the intake tracts. Unless you can honestly tell me that a true dual exhaust, hard intercooler pipes, an SAFC and a little tuning are all pointless I'll probably keep going.

Ya know, who does make a direct bolt-on 6-port turbo kit? No one.
The project is riddled with reasons to do it, lol.
I appreciate all you guy's input and help on this!


