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Yet another turbo question...but a little more interesting I think...

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Old 10-27-05, 12:53 AM
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Is there a way to run without a AFM? It seems like life would be a whole lot easier.

Hehe... Me = noob

Sometimes

It seems like if you were to run standalone you could run something different than a AFM. Such as a MAF off a newer car or such.
Old 10-27-05, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Mason Rx7
Is there a way to run without a AFM? It seems like life would be a whole lot easier.

Hehe... Me = noob

Sometimes

It seems like if you were to run standalone you could run something different than a AFM. Such as a MAF off a newer car or such.
Yeah, stand-alone or an Map ECU...a search will get you plenty of hits for both. For the $1000 or you'll spend doing it, I don't see a point unless you're hunting big numbers...but in that case you'll run an aftermarket EMS anyway.
Old 10-27-05, 05:31 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Makenzie71
Wouldn't the air on the pressure side, being denser and moving faster, cause the AFM door to read higher?
It's not moving faster, it's actually moving a bit slower because of the higher density. Don't confuse pressure with velocity. Remember that at a given point in time the mass airflow is constant from the beginning of the intake all the way to the engine (unless you have a leak).

Last edited by NZConvertible; 10-27-05 at 05:36 AM.
Old 10-27-05, 08:05 AM
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Not sure which T25 they use, but the largest I can find info on flows about 38lbs/min combined, which should be somewhat ok up to around 14psi.
Old 10-27-05, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by SonicRaT
Not sure which T25 they use, but the largest I can find info on flows about 38lbs/min combined, which should be somewhat ok up to around 14psi.
Do you happen to know the turbine A/R on that 38 lb/min turbo?
Cause a GT2835 does about 40 lb/min, and I find it hard to believe a smaller, non-GT-series turbo could flow that much...

T3 "Super 60" does 35, so you sure it was "38" and not "28"?
http://store.yahoo.com/cheapturbo/gat3su.html


-Ted

Last edited by RETed; 10-27-05 at 08:55 AM.
Old 10-27-05, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by RETed
Do you happen to know the turbine A/R on that 38 lb/min turbo?
Cause a GT2835 does about 40 lb/min, and I find it hard to believe a smaller, non-GT-series turbo could flow that much...


-Ted
That's combined between both turbos. Individually they're pretty much useless after 20lbs/min.

Last edited by SonicRaT; 10-27-05 at 09:00 AM.
Old 10-27-05, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by SonicRaT
That's combined between both turbos. Individually they're pretty much useless after 20lbs/min.
Doh!
That makes a LOT more sense!


-Ted
Old 10-27-05, 10:07 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by NZConvertible
I just posted what they were.
Here is some more info:

Originally posted by marklar182 from 300zxClub:

From nismo catalog for part #'s 14411-40P04 and 14411-40P13

Compressor:
T25 housing
A/R .48
T25 Wheel 60trim

Turbine:
T2 Housing
Manual- A/R .63
Auto- A/R .54 (This is for quick spool on the auto, but less top end.)
T2 Wheel 65trim (on manual Auto same?)

270deg Thrust bearing


Hell, give them a shot...according to those specs they are bigger than they looked (to me). I guess I'm just used to looking at the "huge" (relatively) turbos on rotaries. They're good for ~400 whp on a Z32...I couldn't find any info on how much air they flow.
Old 10-27-05, 10:17 AM
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This?

Attached Thumbnails Yet another turbo question...but a little more interesting I think...-300zx.gif  
Old 10-27-05, 10:24 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by RETed
Zenki Z32's were rated at 300.
Kouki Z32's were rated at 320.

I still think the reason the VG30 went twins was cause of the V-configuration of the engine - it just was more practical than running all the pipes into a single - ala Grand National plumbing nightmare!


-Ted
Thats right... Which is why the kits for the new vq? motors are all twins. Not only does it offer simplicity, but also faster spool. Twin turbos are the way to go for almost any application... I would go with a smaller/larger setup for the best of both worlds...

Last edited by MARTIN; 10-27-05 at 10:46 AM.
Old 10-27-05, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Makenzie71


I will be getting an SAFC so I suppose the only thing the AFM is going to be there for anyway is to keep the ECU happy. Ultimately, ANYTHING that frees up things in front of the turbos I'm all for.
Without the AFM you wouldnt be able to use the SAFC. Its not there "Just to keep the ECU happy". The safc changes the signal that the afm sends to the ecu.. If you want to get rid of the afm, get a standalone... ITs not as expensive as it used to be and definately worth every single penny.
Old 10-27-05, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by MARTIN
Without the AFM you wouldnt be able to use the SAFC. Its not there "Just to keep the ECU happy". The safc changes the signal that the afm sends to the ecu.. If you want to get rid of the afm, get a standalone... ITs not as expensive as it used to be and definately worth every single penny.
I'm not interested in getting rid of the AFM and a good stand-alone is still over $1000...especially if you put tuning into the mix.
Old 10-27-05, 11:14 AM
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Old 10-27-05, 11:24 AM
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i thought it was common knowledge that stock z32 turbos were regular ole T25's with a smaller hotside...

anyways, its a waste of time as far as i'm concerned.
Old 10-27-05, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Dom_C
megasquirt
That would be my route.
Old 10-27-05, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Makenzie71
I'm not interested in getting rid of the AFM and a good stand-alone is still over $1000...especially if you put tuning into the mix.
I bought my MT for 700 brand new... You are still limited to the AFm regardless of what piggyback you use.. And you still need to tune.
Old 10-27-05, 11:35 AM
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its pretty cool that you're tyin to ball on a budget here, but i really think its gonna be over-complicated and not make enough results to be justify all that fabrication, especially when you can get the same power goal and spool accomplished with a stock turbo
Old 10-27-05, 11:53 AM
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It'd be better than the stock turbo. Not by much though.
Old 10-27-05, 12:23 PM
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point taken.
Old 10-27-05, 12:26 PM
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I figure it'd be similar to a stage2 hybrid, good for roughly 300rwhp before it runs out of steam. Spool is who knows, if just adding the two together gives any idea I'd think it'd be similar to stock.
Old 10-27-05, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
its pretty cool that you're tyin to ball on a budget here, but i really think its gonna be over-complicated and not make enough results to be justify all that fabrication, especially when you can get the same power goal and spool accomplished with a stock turbo
Project so far:

Turbos ~ $125 shipped to me (thanks jason!!)
Tubing ~ $20 worth, if that much, including hardpipes, downpipes and exhaust.

Plus, I'm going to try and design this around the S4 N/A intake assembly so that I might have a marketable kit.

From my point of view, I'm not out much money, it's only going to require 1 afternoon to fabricate everything and I might be able to make a decent bit of change from it later on. The only things I'm really making that aren't in the norm are the turbo manifold (incredibly easy with a plasma cutter) and the Y pipe for the intake tracts. Unless you can honestly tell me that a true dual exhaust, hard intercooler pipes, an SAFC and a little tuning are all pointless I'll probably keep going.

Ya know, who does make a direct bolt-on 6-port turbo kit? No one.

The project is riddled with reasons to do it, lol.

I appreciate all you guy's input and help on this!
Old 10-27-05, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Makenzie71
Project so far:
Ya know, who does make a direct bolt-on 6-port turbo kit? No one.
I do...
Old 10-27-05, 07:17 PM
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Yours bolts up to an otherwise stock N/A block? (except for oil feed/return, that is)
Old 10-27-05, 07:22 PM
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Yes, though I went a bit further and replaced the intake manifolds/etc.
Old 10-27-05, 07:27 PM
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I wasn't aware you made another manifold to go along with your setup...my mistake...


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