Bigretardhead

sweet I just added a sig. just checking it out.

oh yeah, I think I'm going to get a different battery tomorrow that doesn't have a hole in it. maybe that will help. and a T splitting so I can hook up my boost gauge. now I'm going to bed.

EDIT: damn sig didn't work this time. maybe next time.

rotary>piston

the sigs usually take a few days to come up, and they will appear in all of your previous posts, not just the ones after the change.

Fingers

goddamn it, i'm experiencing a similar issue, but i've already changed my plugs and wires and coil, same crap. in my case though, leading 2 doesnt fire according to the timing light, but leading 1, and both trailing fire perfectly... mind you, its alot better than when I started. Before, leading 1 was a very inconsistent firing pattern, but after doing the plugs, it sounds just like it's supposed to.

I have a feeling this is the cause of my stumble/misfire at certain rpms. I'm about 10 seconds away from ditching this whole coil garbage, and going to a proper MSD 6AL box.

BOOOOOO TO YOU MAZDA! BOOOOOOOO

Bigretardhead

today, I went out to start my car (or try) and it had no power. the battery was dead, and it seemed as though the key had been left in the ON position, but the key was not in. normally(for some reason) the stock temp gauge goes all teh way to "H" if the key is in the ON position, and the temp gauge was all the way up

could something be wrong with my ignition switch?

I'm about to go screw with it more.

rotary>piston

you are quite possibly the luckiest man in the world

Black13B

iTrader: (1)

lol yeah i was gonna say am i the only one that can pull the key out in any ignition position (on, lock, acc..)?

Bigretardhead

no, my key doesn't come out when its in the ON position, just the switch seemed to think it was still in that position when it was actually turned all the way off and the key removed. its like it never sensed that the key was turned... but the car did turn off....

I'm sooooo confused. now, I tried replacing the battery,and once again put on a different leadaing coil. but now I can't test it because the clamp thing that attaches to the + side of the battery broke, so I have to buy a new one. damn this damn electrical system!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!

silverrotor

iTrader: (1)

The Green/Yellow Wire, leading to the Leading Coil Pack, has 0volts on my Car. Obviously with Ign on. I'm not sure If thats something to worry about.

pengarufoo

monitor the voltage on the green/yellow wire with the CAS out and spinning the drive gear (connected of course)

you should see 5v come and go like hailers said, it's the trigger wire, so you won't see any voltage unless the CAS triggers the leading to fire.

rotary>piston

bigretardhead, does the car still idle for a few seconds after shut off?
Man electricity hates you, I'd steer clear of light switches and appliances if I were you

Bigretardhead

okay, now a few hours ago, after I put in my new battery(actaully not new), and yet again a different leading coil(that I got from the TII parts car) I went to start it up, and it wouldn't start like usual. so I went to unplug the trailing coil, and it was already unplugged, so I plugged it in, and it started right up.

after running it for a while, I shut it off, and started it back up. same thing two more times. WTF?????? now it works for some reason??????????

it shouldn't be the different coil because it has the same code on it, so could the new battery do that? I'm sooooooooooo confused, but at least it appears to be working now. except it still does that thing where I can turn the key off, and it kind of sputters down, but the temp gauge remains on "H". I think this is what would cause my electrical system to drain. but if I turn the key to ON, and then back off, it shuts everything off, and so far, everything works fine except that. this is weird.

hehe. well, matt, I just rigged up a switch for the light on my water temp gauge, and everything seems to be going as planned. maybe the electricity is feeling bad for making me suffer for so long, and now its starting to turn around

thanks everyone for the help so far. I'd appreciate any feedback on this last post.

Bigretardhead

DAMN!!!! I just went out to start my car today,and it started!!! then, after idleing a while, I shut it off to check the oil level, and then I started it back up. now, I think its working, so I decided to get gas, but at a stop light on the way there, it started idleing really low, and sounded kinda weird. so I went back home, and found that the leading plugs weren't firing. and now I can't get it to start!!!!!!!! WTF is wrong with my electrical system????!!!!!!!!!!

Bigretardhead

AND NOW ITS WORKING AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!

AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


ITS SOOOO FRUSTRATING!!!!!!!!!

Bigretardhead

has anyone ever heard of a problem like this before?

francis

yea i got the same problem checked everything from the resitance to changing my ecu im getting the 5 volt signal but its not droping for the leading to fire but the trailling is firering just fine exept for mine isnt starting at all does anyone have an idea of what this could be besides the cas wires ecu spark plugs and the coil it self already checked all of that???