jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i bet its the fuel pump. you say you jumpered it, but jumpering it wont do crap if its not pumping well enough to get good pressure up to the injectors.

jon88se

Chances are if he can hear it, it works fine. So, at this point we believe you have fuel...now check for spark. Coils would be first on my list...

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

I have spark to all four plugs. I pulled the CAS, and all four plugs, layed them on the throttlebody and spun the CAS. All 4 sparked consistantly..

One of the reasons I think it might be the ECU is I belive it may have been damaged when I had a problem with a spark plug wire FALLING OFF! Don't get the cheap "XCEL" wires from Advance, kids, no matter how well they say they hold up. This happened the same week that the rest of the problems started, but the car ran (For a day or two) after I swapped wires.. That's why I'm thinking it's the ECU...

JamesBong

Well, there's something wrong with your engine, look at all the green flames comming out!

But seriously, it seems to work with the key in the crank position, but not in the run position, I would start with that. Each position has it's own wire. Make sure that they're all connected at both ends, and check the connectors for corrosion. Every time I check a connector, I spray it with bullfrog. It's an anticorrosive/protectant for electrical connectors, and does a good job.

James

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

James - Good idea Unfortunatly, I don't think it's that.. When the key is in the "RUN" position, all of the main relays snap, and the spark plugs will spark.. I thought it might have been the key cylinder, so I removed it. It's now a push-button start system..

casio

oooo, exquisite. pictures? i'm sure its just a button that says 'start,' but i think thats cool. i'm more interested where yuo mounted it and crap. i'd like mine exactly where the key goes, but with a slightly hidden fuel and/or ignition cutoff switch. i would also like a battery cutoff.

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

Casio - I plan on doing a writeup with pics after I get it done.. right now it's not very elegant at all, with wires hanging all over while I worked on it It really wasn't that hard, though. I didn't go with one of the nice light up ones that say "start", I went with one of the brushed-aluminum push button ones, sorta generic race-car style.. And it does have two switches.. one right by the button (For everything), and one (hidden) for the fuel cut. It does make fuel cut switches obsolete however, as I can crank the starter reguardless of whether the rest of the car is on or not.

Crazyt

Sorry for bringing a thread back from the dead, but has there been any resolution to your problem? The reason I ask is that I have the same exact problem and indications. Thanks.

WonkoTheSane

iTrader: (2)

Unforunately, there hasn't been a resolution yet... I got a new ECU to try that, but now it's acting like it's severely flooded. i've tried all the common unflooding procedures with no suceess.. the only thing that's left to me is to try to pull-start it with the new ECu. I haven't had a chance to do this, since it's been sorta nuts here with the holidays and everything.. lemme know if you come up with anything

Good luck!

Crazyt

Haven't got a chance to try to start the car (I'm waiting for other parts to arrive, I'm taking care of a few things while I'm at it...), but when I was inspecting the leading coils, I noticed that one of them had black soot like stuff down in one of them (picture). I also had a decent amount of crud buildup on the terminals from the ignitor to the coil. I was unable to take a picture of this due to the camera not being able to focus on something so small. The corrosion was on the nut and underneath on the contact surface as well.

I figured this could be enough to give enough misfires to have the car hesitate, but to die and not restrart is quite strange. Worth while looking into I guess.