no. if you have way bigger (double) what the primaries are, you going to hit a lean spot in your fuel if you dont run the fuel rails in parallel.

stock from the factory, the fuel goes to one rail, then the other, and back into the tank. with a parallel system, it goes to both rails, and then both rails empty into the tank at the same time.

 

Sounds very likely to me. Why is everyone else going straight for upgrades? If you're 4k in debt you should probably just do what it takes to stabilize the car for now until you're ready to put more money into it. You may be having fun in the car now, but when you have to sell it...

 

yeah, well, the car is stable and drives just fine. shitty *** miliage but it starts like new. so im okay if i dont spend money on it. however. i would like to diagnose it in time just to be 100percent on what it is.

another option - 550-720 primaries

-heres my current todo list.
-check voltage to secondary injectors
-check ecu ground.
-check fuel pressure after 3.5k even though i have no idea where to get the stuff or how im going to do it while driving
-check the sec. resistors while on?

my current set fuel setup

rtek 1.7
apexi safc
innovative lc-1 will recalibrate
walbro 255 pump voltage is good but not sure about pressure
banjo bolt mod swap back to new FPD??
brand new fuel pressure regulator can new ones cause trouble?
550/1000 combo going to swap in 720 to prim.
new injector clips
newer fuel lines.

 

im talkin in like a quarter tank ever couple days and im only drivin localy.

 

Courtesy of My5ABaby:

To diagnose your charging system:

The DMM (Digital Multimeter Method)
1. Turn on the engine, headlights, heater, and fan on high.
2. Test the alternator output by measuring the voltage between the alternator positive post and the alternator frame (13.5 to 14.4 volts).
3. Test the primary battery positive (+) wire by measuring voltage between the positive battery terminal and positive alternator post (0 volts).
4. Test the primary battery ground (-) wire by measuring voltage between the alternator frame and negative battery terminal (0 volts).
5. Turn off the engine, but leave the lights on.
6. Test the battery by measuring the voltage between the two battery terminals (~12.5 volts).

 

Are you using Venom secondaries?....they are getting a reputation for having inaccurate flow ratings. Wouldn't be a bad idea to have them flow tested. Also, the injectors are pulsed through the ground side, so double-check control unit grounds.

 

Missleading thread tittle! I came in here expecting to talk about how much *I* hate RX-7's.

 

will update asap

 

here you go bro, ReTed is way to smart with 7's...and this is his website.(http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/FUEL/fsystem.htm) The link I have posted shows the stock fuel set-up and the modified parallel set-up. He explains the need for this when upgrading anything to the turbo 7.

You MUST buy a Fuel Pressure Regulator to support your big 2nd injectors, the walbro 255, and most important, the Turbo/large exhaust/r-tek your boooosting
I would block off the Oil Metering system and premix 1oz per gallon of gas too. Check out this link for the parts to purchase (http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...ATS&Category=3)

Good luck!

-Dustin

 

nope.. you only need to upgrade your FPR if youre fuel pump outflows it. They work llike a wastegate, if your FPR is too small, it will creep the pressure up, even at idle.

I am running 750cc and 1000cc injectors on stock FPR, stock fuel lines, stock FPD, walbro 255 with no problems.. steady 37psi at idle and up to about 55 psi in boost. i could benefit from the extra flow of a parallel setup, but maybe later down the road

 

its gotta be the banjo bolt that i have then. havent been able to work on it today though. its rainy and snowy.

but yeah, ill be driving along and go to 3/4 throttle or so and i can sometimes the stutter come on but it kinda feels like its twiddering. yeah that probobly wont make any sense but oh well.

 

Honestly, i say get rid of the crap stock ecu and get at least a megasquirt, is this a DD?

 

yeah

 

small update.

well havent been able to do much work still because of the weather but. i had an inline 15 amp fuse going to threw the pump rewire. and i blew it. so i guess i DID have 12-13v going to the pump but it was actually getting that current. it was only getting 15 amps. i blew the fuse and just spliced the wires and now the relay is getting the full amps and and the pump is getting 30 amps. and now there is no hesitation threw any of the rpm range. ill submit my afr readings once i recalibrate the lc1.

 

well i took some logs and there leaps and bounds better from before, i took out the inline fuse. i still think i should drop my 720's in the primary slots and that should do the trick. im running stock boost on my hybrid. a lil under half bar.


damn it wont let me upload the log works files. i tried to make it into a .iso, but even that wont work. does anyone know how to convert these files into a jpeg or something?

 

Ok, I have no idea how the software works, but if all else fails, you can take a screenshot of whatever is on your computer screen by pressing the "Print Screen" key on the keyboard. It will copy to your clipboard, and you can paste/save in any image program you may have (ms paint works).

 

hey, i still want to show you all my graphs and whatnot. but im on a laptop. can i still take screenshots?