Yep. My week old engine, with 150 km's on it just sized after idles for 10 seconds from a cold start.
It will turn over, but very slowly, and it's grinding like crazy. I tried turning it backwards by hand with a socket on the main pulley, and it took all my strength to turn it a little bit.
Something definatly went wrong inside!
Of course it will be fixed for free, but the olny PITA is that I have to take 6 hours to rip the engine out again.
Oh well, I'll take this oppourtuinity to put in a new clutch and ditch all my emmisions!
Man... the engine hasn't even seen more than 1 psi, or more than 4500 rpm's.. havn't even brought it over 110 km/hr!
Oh well... things happen.
I'm so pissed.

 

that sucks man
i get my car tomrrow with a fresh engine
i hope to god the same thing doesnt happen to me

 

You're supposed to let it idle a lot when you put in a rebuild, and when you drive it keeping the revs UNDER 4000 rpm hehe..

Might of been a bad rebuild, but you're so supposed to baby the engine for the first 500 miles, change the oil and baby it it another 500, and then when you get over 1000 you can start to work it a little more..

Basically, you just drive it around the block and town, not get right on a highway =p

8) Once it is running and youre satisfied everything is stable, set the idle to around 1500rpm and let it be. Since compression is constantly changing, there isn’t much use in adjusting and readjusting idle and TPS settings until breakin is almost complete, as the settings will change almost daily. Right now, the more you can drive it, the better. IT is very helpful for the first few days even to just let it idle in the driveway all day.


9) Breakin should be completed as follows: keep rpms under 4000, oil changes at 500 and 2000 miles, and no boost above atmospheric(turbo models).


10) Great improvements in starting, idle quality and overall smoothness/power will begin occurring immediately, but most improvement will be reached by 1500 miles, at which time you can gradually increase rpm and boost. By the time the engine reaches 2000 miles, it is basically broken in and can be treated as you wish within reason.



Regardless though, that really blows that it popped on you so soon... Oh well, it shouldn't take you too long to pull the engine and drop in another one. The first engine always takes time to pull, we pulled my GXL engine in 45 minutes and had the new engine dropped in in an hour compared to the first engine pull of 6 hours 2nd time's a charm =]

 

wow, that sucks! that's what, rebuild #3?

and here I was hoping to come by and see how it was running... oh well
sometime soon, maybe
jeez, I might have my car back on the road before you do

 

Man, that sucks.. I am shure I saw your car crusing windsor a few times in the past..

 

Oh trust me.. I was babying it.

Ya I love this... another 3 weeks without a car. I'm thinking about going and buying a beater in a few days just to get around with.
And yes, assuming the engine was original when I bought the car, this is rebuild #3 in 20,000 kms!
It was a bad rebuild, something just went on it. I'm not blaming the guy who rebuilt it for any shoddy workmanship- he knows his stuff and has been helping me out for a while now. He has never had a problem in any rebuild he's done (supossedly one a month), but I guess you can't have a perfect record all the time!
It's an excuse to remove all the emeesions, and to replace the clutch as well.

 

Letting your car sit at constant rpm for long periods of time (long idle times, long highway drives) is bad supposibly.

 

It's not really *bad* but it's better to have varrying loads. Anyway, that sucks man Watch it be something easy, like a tension bolt not tightened down all the way that backed it's way out and is grinding against the flywheel or something stupid.

 

yeah, but idling is needed when it's first being run. 3000 rpm is probably too much for an engine with 1 minute on it.

 

Ya, varying loads and rpms is best, because it allows for even wear on the seals from different presssure distribution.

I personally would not let the car idle for an hour as some recommend. My new engine had very low compression, and would ONLY start with a bump start. After that I just drove around the neighbourhood for 15 minutes, and it was able to start under it's own power after.
It's some fluke that must have gotten overlooked when assembling the engine.
Damn... that's 150 km's wasted towards a break in!!! It won't be untill the middle of the damn summer untill I can start pony car hunting again..... It's like shooting fish in a barrel here in Windsor!

 

that sucks man...

Im still waiting for new internal seals for my build right now...

I havent driven my 7 for 4 damn months!!! This is killing me!

 

rotary I disagree. Our cars did 3000rpm with a brand spanking new motor the first time they started. It wont hurt anything.

 

yeah, mustangs ARE everywhere around here. they're as common as cavaliers and sunfires (well, almost)

they kinda scare me ATM, but once I get everything working properly, I won't hesitate to show 'em my taillights.

if you ever need a second person and don't have one around, don't hesitate to give me a shout....

 

Bambam, who did the rebuild?
-ross