Hi guys i am new to the rotary world and i purchased this 91 n/a with 108k on it, when i bought it the guy had turbo injectors in it for some reason. So i bought it put the right injectors in it and it still takes 30mins to get it to start and was just flooding. So then i figured out the fuel pressure regulator was bad so i put a new regulator on it and check every senser and relay on the car they were all in spec. except the silver box one behind the passenger headlight that was barely out of spec it still takes forever to get it to start and barly stays running any help would be greatly excepted. i put a new fuel pump in it also.

 

Compression test.

 

yeah , compression test, maybe even grounding , tps , i did all these to my car and now it starts like new

 

ya i didnt get around to the compression test yet i will most likely o out and do one, i reset the tps to spec. and redid all the grounds. what is the compression stock numbers?

 

this thing is driving me nuts. i put the new fpr on and try to start does the same thing and wont start i turn the key on and the fuel pressure gauge goes up to 40psi and 30-35psi when cranking. then i turn the key on and is goes to 40psi for 10 secs. then i turn it off to do the test and the pressure just drops slowly its like the fpr wont hold pressure now. ROTARIES ARE HELL TO FIGURE OUT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

how's your oil? have you tested your OMP (oil Metering Pump)? are you sure it's a fuel issue? It seems like you've already looked at most of the fuel system so I'd start looking elsewhere. Make sure you're getting enough voltage to the fuel pump too.

 

well i got the car with bigger fuel injectors so i put the right ones in and then it keep flooding so i traced the whole fuel system and then did a fuel pressure test and noticed the fpr was bad so i just got that done that why i figured it was a fuel problem. i will check the omp and let you know what i found. this car also dont have the smog pump **** on it i dunno if that could cause this.

 

Well sure as heck it isn't the OMP.

When trying to start the engine you said you saw about 40psi. Nothing wrong with that. When you turn the key from Start of On you said the fuel pressure crept downwards. Big deal. So what. Who cares? When the engine starts the fuel pump will keep running and the fuel pressrue will stay up. Big deal.

It's probably the fuel pump check valve that is letting the pressure decay, not the FPR. But then again, it's not a player in the car starting.

Your problem is most likely the compression being LOW which means the amount of fuel being injected during START is too much for the low compression engine.

My suggestion to you is to make a FUEL CUT SWITCH and USE IT when starting the car.

Other things to look at is to make SURE the water thermo sensor plug is connected. That will effect COLD starts only if disconnected. Will not cause a hot engine to not start.

Do an ADVANCED SEARCH on this site and install the words FUEL CUT SWITCH and the name NZCONVETTIBLE. After about twenty or thirty threads you'll find the one that describes how to install a fuel cut switch properly.

Or buy a RTEK2.0 for the non turbo cars and it comes with a built in fuel cut. Pricey for that alone though.

EDIT: OOPS. On a series five car if you put the pedal to the floor, the fuel is now not injected. THis helps start flooded cars. So keep the pedal to the floor when starting (if it does not start the first time) and that will clear the fuel from the rotors and help start the car. Works just like or BETTER than a fuel cut switch. Works better because the sparkplugs still fire but the fuel does not get injected. So the residue fuel will be blown out the rotors and should ignite when enough gets cleared from the chambers.

 

i tryed putting the pedal to the floor it tries to start and then i let off a little to give it some fuel but it still wont start!!!!! would having the smog pump off have anything to do with it?

 

you're supposed to crank for 10 seconds with the pedal to the metal. THEN let off and turn it on. I don't want to say LOW compression just yet because I think the OMP causes starting issues also. to eliminate the blown motor fear you should do a compression check.

 

ya thats what procedure i do. the motor is not blown it ran and drove(down the driveway lol) before when i first got it but it was so hard to get started.