graniteguru

iTrader: (1)

Thanks cendo. I took the secondary air bleeds out last night and found out that on the front one, the nipple was clean, but that the super tiny hole in the side of the fuel difuser (the plastic insert) was plugged solid. Thanks for the help. I also think that I did not have it hooked up to the proper vacuum/pressure source. I hop that this fixes the problem. Thanks again.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

well i found out what was causing the problem. my idle was to high when i setup base timing, so my timing was off once i set that up it was perfect.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

looks like im still having the same prob, even after installing the intake temp sensor, timing seams ok, its 0dd cause some times it will boot 100% ok for 3 gears then if i let off the gas some and try to hit boost once more, it seams like its getting limed in power/ speak and surges or cuts off the engine power, im realy starting to think the used map sensor i have is bad any thoughts on this

HKSpoweredFC3S

Okay wait wait wait, can you free rev your motor under boost? Or does it only spit when your under load trying to drive?

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

only under load (boost gauge dose not show boost when its sting tho it just hits 0 to 6k its a new rebuild so i dont want to abuse it yet lol)
well.... **** some times with no load it will stumble ie: if it feels a slight load it will enter in that mode where it will start stumbling if that makes scene

but ya for the most past seams like its just under load ( im thinking afm or map at this point in time as its doing the same thing with or with out a tps) that or its a timing thing, il play with timing and it seams likes its ok, till the next day il take it out just to play with it and stumbles after hitting boost once, so what could change the timing and not set it back to where its supposed to be


i should add i removed the rats nest and im still confused if i need to keep the pressure sensor on the turbo housing?

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

well after doing 5 hours of reading for 2 days i think i found it, this problem feels like a fuel cut off. i have installed an S5 Tii in my Fb so i did not know i had to have a pill on the vac line going to the map sensor thats Y i would hit boost limiter way to fast, and seeing as my engine is street ported as soone as i would jump on the pedal it give me boost, hitting fuel cut off, il build a pill in the morning with a .05mm hole and il see if that fixes the prob!!!

BTW sry for tread jacking

HKSpoweredFC3S

i was just about to say that it sounds like your fuel cutting.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

thats what i was thinking as well, and i figured it had to me something that can change timing as if i change it a little it seam to work for a while. im going to install one and il report back tonight

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

ok well hers and update,, FAILED lol still the same problem, its all random when it dose it but once its in that stuck mode you can get out of it untill you shut the car down and fire it back up, then you can play till it cuts off. i found some cracked wires on the cas harness close to the cas so il fix those sunday as they look like they might be touching the ground/shielded cable

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

well here's an update i fixed the cracked wires to the cas and after work i had sameer come and help me tonight at 1am lol, we took for a ride and reset the timing of the leading and trailing, then we took it for a test drive same thing 3 gears then no more boosting. i shut it down fire it back up and went to a culdasac and did a donuts so i could play with the boost and it stayed in boost while i was sort of drifting, then as i pulled and made it hold its boost steady it stooped hitting boost. we left it do that so we could do some testing, as once it in this mode even at reving it up at idle will make it not hit boost at all as well, so we unplugged the temp sensor same thing so we plugged it back in. next we unplugged the map sensor vacuum line same thing?.... next we unplugged the 3 wire plug to the map sensor SAME THING STILL CANT GET IT TO HIT BOOST??..... well, only one thing left was the afm. we we unplugged it with the car running, and it changed the way the car was responding, i so final something makes this disappear now we all know the car wont take all the gas i can give it with the afm disconnected but what shocked me was that when we reconnected the afm with the car still running i was able to hit boost once more before it went back in that mode, we we disconnected it once more to see if it would let me boost but it did not,..... so we take it out for an other test drive after shutting down the car, and i got 5 gears of boost i thought it was fixed then no more boost still have the same prob im relay thinking its the bad AFM NOW,
i know im double posting this in 2 section but i think i started entering info in a tread that sounded close to the same prob i was having but its now a different story lol any thoughts on this il look at it to see what the service Manuel says for specs in the morning, and do you guys what that the resister pack is? is that just he realay box on the drivers fender?

HKSpoweredFC3S

Wait a second, I havn't read all of this post yet but, whenever you start the car, does it rev as you want it to for lets say about 10secs? about the same time as the cold start up system??? when I say rev it as you want to, you can rev it decently but if you floor it it starts to cut and everything just seems off, like its sputtering all the way through the rpms?? and then after that 10secs is up, does it go into limp mood to where it drops down to a bunching idle usaly between 1.5 - 2k rpm?? and once it hits limp mood you can pick the revs back up???

Let me know and ill try to help you out some more.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

sounds just like that BUT. i can free rev it with no load as much as i want to! i take it out for a drive put i load on it, then once it its in limp mode it wont get out of it, i was able to get out of it once buy unplugging the afm reeving it up some and plunging it back in and it went back to free reeving for a few revs then back in limp mode

i wish i could figure out how to install a check engine light!!

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

i think i never stayed this in the past, this engine is installed in an FB its a 91S5 so it needs the OMP still attached to the wiring harness its not hooked up mechanically to the car tho its just sitting there not being used, i wounder if this could cause it to go in limp mode?

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

"No, the ECU monitors the stepper motor position to ensure it's following the instructions sent to it. It must constantly see that the stepper motor is moving the way it's supposed to or it'll go into limp mode." well in doing some limp/omp searching i found this
mine is sitting on my fender not attached to the engine i used the hole as my turbo oil return hole, so if the motor is not turning then omp sends a signal to the ecu to limp cause im broked...

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

ok so first thing i did today with out testing any sensors is, i unplugged the OMP and started the car, instant limp mode just like it dose after hitting boost a few times. i shut the car off plug the omp in and free rev the car works fine, i think the omp has a bad spot in it and is causing the ecu to go in limp mode. il test it this week and see what is out of spec on it if i find something out of spec il just add a resistor on that wire to make up for the missing resistance il keep posting my updates, Aaroncake has an idea of what we could do to fool the ecu il have to prob him to see if we can do this trick

before i forget..... dose the OMP use the TPS? i mean if my TPS is not adjusted will it make the omp send a trouble code to the ecu if that makes sense?

thanks for all your help and any more input would be cool as well

HKSpoweredFC3S

I'm not sure if the TPS would effect the OMP or not, but I wouldn't dought it if it did.
My car is doing the same thing, but I still have a non-turbo ecu in it, so im not too worried about it. I'm saving for a standalone. (90 gxl with s5 jdm turbo motor and trans.)
But yeah, im not sure exacally how to fix the limp mood, im not going to bother trying anymore with that ecu. Its going to get chunked anyway.
It sounds very likly that a bad OMP can make that happen though.

HKSpoweredFC3S

*and i ment to say, once it hits limp mood, you CANT pick the revs back up*

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

ya u got it. try and disconnect your omp (wait your not premixing my bad) but ya it will do the limp mode on start up but like clock work found a used one for il see if he will take 35$ for not il have to find more $$ lol but ya im guessing its the problem but if its not im getting it stored for the winter/ until next July till after i married and il just do a stand alone as well a friend of mine did the megasquirt on his 12A Na and went from carburetors to EFI man that car pull allmost 3/4 as hard as the 13B TII dose less the extra turbo and its only 250$ plus the extra harness i think his bill was around 500$ to get it running. any ways good luck with yours, il let you know if it dose fix the prob or not, we should make this limp mode a sticky and how to trouble shoot it lol i did find a nice link to test the OMP!!
il look at that this Wednesday.

https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...8&postcount=38

graniteguru

iTrader: (1)

OK, I just checked back to this thread that was started a while ago and wow you guys have been busy. Just to give you an update on what I have found so far. After a ton of testing at the ECU, the OMP, the TPS, the AFM and such, I have found the following.

When I disconnect the TPS, the car will idle just peachy. When I hit the accelerator with a fairly quick tap, it cuts out and sputters. When I gently bring the RPMs up, it does just fine. Mind you this is the car sitting (not under load) with the TPS diconnected. When I connect the TPS, it dies. With the TPS connected, the engine will start and then die immediatley. This is usually an indication of something wrong with the AFM because the ECU uses an internal fuel map to start the car and then at 500 RPM starts taking input from the AFM. So I tested the output pin at the ECU for voltage to pin 2b (89 S5 Turbo). THe FSM I get a 0 volt reading here. So now.....I am trying to figure out if the TPS is bad and it is not allowing a voltage to register at the ECU, or if the ECU is bad or if both are bad. I thought about the omp as well and how it would effect the signal to the TPS or AFM. There is a common wire that feeds the sensors (the AFM, MOP, TPS, and pressure sensor. It is a brown/white wire that carries 5 volts. I am thinking that if one of the components (sensors) is grounding out because of an internal problem, it could be throwing several sensors out of whack. Any thoughts.

graniteguru

iTrader: (1)

BTW, the only way to clear the fault out of the ECU is to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery and press the brake pedal to get rid of any residual charge in the system. Wait 30 seconds and then re-connect. If you are just shutting off the key, it will not clear the fault codes

texFCturboII

iTrader: (17)

I think I''m having the exact same problem granite, are you running extremely rich as well? My line of thought has lead me to the AFM as well. I'm running a S-AFC at the moment which modulates the AFM and can't redline under load, and no real acceleration while boosting (even at like 11psi!!!) Let me know how that goes.... I'm going megasquirt soon to get rid of all that crap, hopefully that will help.

graniteguru

iTrader: (1)

Very Rich INDEED!!. I will run some more tests tonight to see if I can nail it down. I am also installing a "pill restrictor" tonight on the pressure sensor. Right now I am getting TOO much vacuum to the sensor and it is hitting fuel cut off when I boost too soon. It is giving false and sporadic readings to the ecu. Do you have a "pill"

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

see i thaught it was hitting boost limiter as well. so i installed the pill and tryed other vacume sorces, still the same thing, i was thnking afm but some times i can get the car to run with so much power it set you in your seat, in all 4 gears!
if your running premix or if you can premix for this test unplug the omp and start the car notice how it feals and revs just like when it hit "what we are calling boost cut off"
then shut it off plug the omp back in at you can free rev it with no load. gave it some load and back at limp mode. im getting an omp from a guy in ontario this week end he has a JDM engine that has a stand alone installed in so i hope its in better shape then mine is. lol il keep you guys posted as well

graniteguru

iTrader: (1)

I made a restrictor pill out of two ends of a syringe. I buy these syringes at the hobby store to place glue very precisly on my RC airplanes that I build. I use them to place little dots of elmers to mimic rivets. Anyway, I took the metal tip out of one of the ends. The tiny metal tube is about .6mm. The pink is this size and the yellow is about .4 mm. I put two of the pinks together. Once I had the metal tube out of the end of one, I simply inserted the other ones tube in the hole and then put a touch of superglue in it to "seal the deal". I then took a dremel cut off wheel and cut the flanges off of the ends so that they would fit inside the vacuum tube. Everything is very nice and a snug fit. WAHLA!! Home made "Pill".

I think these syringes are about .75 each. TRIED to post some pictures, but it is not working right now. I will post this in the am.

immanuel__7

iTrader: (8)

let us know how you made you. i feel like an *** for tread jacking this tread, but im so confused about this. il post some updates if i have to test the resistance of my omp today