JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok so after I cut and tape off the Br/R and Br/B and and run the new wires from B/W and W/B from connector X-05, does the B/W go to the former Br/R and W/B goes to the former Br/B so the when I put the connectors together the W/B wire meets the W/B wire and same with the other wire in the front harness? Or should the wire colors mismatch?

HAILERS

Yes, the BW goes to the BrR etc. Look at the half of the plug that's on the FRONT harness. See how your new wires will mate with the BW and WB on that front side of the plug? Yes.

When you get that done you need to take care of the water temp wires. One will be in the other plug called X-16 and the other in the X-15. The YW wires.

And I looked at the online 88 wiring, and sure enough, on the 88 cars they use a pure black wire instead of the brown/black. So don't be surprised if you see a pure black below the BrR.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok i got it, no problems now. ill post a diagram up. i believe i have the water temp wires covered from another thread of yours. its the diagram w/ the red arrow and the X-15 Y/W wire TII (E) has to go to the N/A (F) harness X-16 Y/B wire. i posted it in the first link right? also what do i do w/ the wire i cut on the TII harness to meet the Y/W from the other connector just tape it off?
james

HAILERS

Yeah. The YW (yellow/white) gets moved from the 15 pin plug on the EM harness over to where there is presently a LgB (light green/black) wire. The LgB gets capped off. It went to a pwr steering switch on the pwr steering assy.

The YB (yellow/black)wire you see will not be there. Whereever you see a ( ) around a letter code, THAT is the wire color you'll find on a Turbo harness.

In your case that applys only on your Turbo EM harness. On all the Front plug halves, you'll ignore any ( ) and go with the other letter color codes. Because your front harness is from a non turbo car.

I've never had to do this myself and really don't know if there's enough wire length to move a wire from one plug to the other or not. You get to overcome that problem as you see fit.

I just used all non turbo harnesses on my swap and to me it seems a lot less fiddling about. That's a little late for you though. Does not matter. Your way will work out.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

yeah i understand the the pin labling i just wanted to konw what to do w/ the Lg/B wire i just mad a quick diagram of the entire wiring to do this take a look what do u think.
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...3&#entry893383

HAILERS

Yikes! I just realized that the red arrow in your jpg is not right.

The red arrow should be going from the left like you have it, BUT not going up to the Front harness. The arrow should be going from the left where you started it on the X-15 plug (YW) over to the right to the LgB in the corner of the X-16 EM plug.

I write this prior to reading your post just above this one.

EDIT: I just looked at your jpg on NoPistons.com. Nope. Not right. Remember, your only moving wires in the Turbo EM harness, not any wires in the non turbo Front harness.,

You move YW from the fifteen pin plug on the EM harness to where the picture shows a YW in the 13 pin plug on the Turbo EM harness.

Don't touch the Front harness side of the plug at all.

And I see you want to run the alt wires from the six pin plug on the Engine harness. Well you could do that , but it might be just as easy to run them directly from the alternator and piggy back them with the rest of the wires on the EM harness back into the passengers area.

But then again, if you run them from the six socket plug into the car on the drivers side, you might have a cleaner install. Depends how you do it. Those wires would be more out of sight than piggybacking them on the EM harness.

Just remember, don't touch the plug on the Front harness and make the changes to the plugs on the EM harness.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

i under stand what your saying i would have made the diagram like that but i was too lazy to draw the other connectors lol

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok, wired it all up today, but just ran new wires for the alternator from the new six pin connector. When I put the engine in with the emissions harness attached I'll spice in to FEM-01 and do the water temp wiring thanx for all your help. If I have any more questions I'll post them. I still think this thread should be saved for 87 and 88 n/a to 88 tii wiring
James

HAILERS

Nah. It really got too confusing when I was using 87wiring diagrams for your 88. I had no idea the interface b/t the engine and front harness were that different. Surprise.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

calling hailers maybe you can shed some insight on this for me
this is a thread that i started yesterday and i am just getting more and more confused about how to go about attacking this
https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/no-datalogit-commander-output-751512/
thanks for any advice
james

HAILERS

I wrote some words on the other thread.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

k Hailers,
Correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not the best at reading wiring diagrams.
I believe pin 3I (B/W) gets power from the main relay FSM pg 50-25? and 3J (W/L) goes to a battery point source pg 50-22?
Now I might have written the wires colors backwards in the previous post, I dont remember, I'm gonna recheck again, but definatly one of the wires was not getting power.
The one that was getting power when it was grounded through the meter i heard a relay clicking in the front of the car.
So if I read the scematic correctly that means I have power at the B/W wire and I was hearin the main realy clicking?
Now if thats correct, then that means I'm not getting power to the W/B wire, which is supposed to be battery source. It runs to connector FEM-02, then changes to a L/R wire which goes to battery source where ever that is. Idk I was just tring to understand this ****, am I anywhere close? lol
Thanks
James

HAILERS

Yes. B/W comes off the Main Relay.

The other wire you say you have no power on. It comes from the ROOM fuse in the interior fuse box. Fourth row from the bottom of the fuse box. Third fuse from the left. That ROOM fuse gets fed by the 60amp fuse in the engine bay. Called the BTN fuse. Gotta have both fuses good.

Actually if memory serves, a car will start and run without that power on pin 3J, the White/Blue wire (W/L). I've done that before. But on your aftermarket ECU/harness (Power PC?? whatever), you might need it. Or IT might need that power. I don't believe a stock ECU needs it at all. Been there, pulled the BTN and ran the car before in a past life.

So, fix it so both those wires, B/W and W/L get power. IF they do, then the next thing I'd look at is putting the meter on ohms, pulling the small plug off the ECU and making sure the pure black wireS (3A and 3G) on that small plug are showing less than one ohm in value. That'll prove the ECU's internals are getting a gnd.

Heck, while your on the small plug, go to each of the injector wires on the Plug with the key to ON. Make sure each has batt voltage. They're colored light green, light green/red, light green black, light green/white if memory serves. Gotta have batt voltage on them for the thing to start.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

ok hailers ur awsome heres the post i had last in the other thread
Ok, maybe im just retarted, but I just retested the 2 wires at the small connector and my original post was correct.
Except there was no relay clicking (maybe i was just hearing things?) this time I tested each wire numerous times and this is what i got.
The bottom W/L wire has battery voltage. So, all that **** I wrote before wont have to be checked, the circuit is working correctly.
The top B/W wire has no power it reads .140vdc. So, I'm gonna try to figure out where this wire goes and how its run the the main relay. acually, where is the main relay and whats the best source to apply the wire to get power?

better yet can i steal the 12v source from the W/L or does it have to be a switched power b/c the W/L wire is a constant right?
james

HAILERS

The power for the B/W wire comes from the Main Relay, but there is a connector inbetween. Called FEM-02. A 13 socket/pin, orange plug above the passengers feet and off to the right/up.

I fear that you cut the wrong B/W wire earlier on........maybe. But, anyway, find that 13 pin/socket connector and the B/W wire. There should be one B/W right above another B/W wire. See page 50-26 of that online manual. The FEM-02 is near the bottom of the page.

I'd do that before swapping the two wires, although that might work. Depends what the new ECU/harness is looking for. I don't know.

Main Relay is in the engine bay. Drivers side. Somewhat gold in color and near the trail coil assy. Has two seperate plugs going to it. One is two pin the other four if memory serves. I don't think it's the Main Relay, I think it's the FEM-02 mentioned above.

Page 50-25 shows the B/W wire going to the FEM-02 (top right side of the dwg) from pin 3I. That B/W wire goes to a lot of other places. I'd check out that FEM-02 and see if you have batt voltage on the two B/W, one above the other., Look on the Front harness side of the plug with the key to ON.

That B/W wire is fed from the Main Relay and the Main Relay is fed by the 30a EGI fuse in the engine bay.

I THINK the Main Relay is pulling in because somewhere above (maybe the other thread), you mentioned the fuel pump working.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Yeah fuel pump is getting power. I have it wired as per you and nzconvertable. I'm gonna check to see if those two wires are getting power in the morning. Now, what does this other B/W wire do? It should read battery voltage too, right? damn I wish I had my car by me I just want to get to the bottom of this, to see if all my hard work payed off. My garage is like a mile away and has no electricity, its now dark and raining . After FEM-02 where do these wires go so when i get the voltage readings from them I have a place to check next.
thank james

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

Took voltage at the two wires, nothing. I recalled where you stated the main relay was so I went over there to investigate and I found a white 6 prong connector left un plugged.
So I looked at the wire colors at the end of the terminals, they were all black. So I thought they must have been faded or some thing so i removed like 3 inches of insultation and they where still all black. I was like wtf so I went to the donor car figuring I had left some thing on there but the only thing that there was a little metal prong, that looked as if it plugged in to the connector and was used as a ground, maybe. Then I thought all the wires on that connector were blk so I thought ground. Put the metal peice on the connector and bolted it down. key on engine off I now have power to both wires 3I and 3J. Tried starting her up, open dp and boy oh boy, was that mother loud!! I'm so happy now. Hailers, if it wasnt for you I dont think it would have been possible for me to get where am thank you some much for every thing
James

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

thanks to you heres some sound audio and a pic of my project se running
http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=72561

HAILERS

Yes. That six prong outfit is a ground block for several items. It's called JC-01 and is shown on page 50-120 of the online manual. JC-01 is the gnd for gnds 2, 4,6,3,5,7. The gnd 3 is for the MAIN RELAY, so that sucker wasn't pulling in to feed the ECU pin 3I.

You can look on the left side of that page to see the flock of other things that are gnd'd there on JC-01.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

hailers if i reversed the two alt wires the w/b and b/w what would happen?

HAILERS

The alternator wouldn't put out. But it might put out if you rev'd the engine high, then it'd probably put out but it wouldn't be regulated and eventually go straight to hell in a hand basket. I'm not sure how long it takes for it to get in the basket. It may take some time for that to happen.

Look at the jpg attached. Just look at the series four alt and nothing else. The black/white goes to the Top Of the Tee, so to speak. The *R* terminal. The White/Black to the bottom.

So you think you got the two wires mixed up somewhere? Like, not at the alternator but somewhere else?

There's a fairly easy way to check the alternator out. Key to ON, Engine OFF. Backprobe the *L* terminal which would be the white/black wire on the small plug. That would be with the plug attached to the alternator. The voltage should be 1-3vdc. IF it's 12vdc or the like.........ain't a good sign.

Here's a way to tell if you have 'em crossed somewhere. If you pull the small plug off, and have the key to ON, you can put the meter to either wire and they'll both see approx 12vdc. That's because the white/black is backfeeding thru the alternator relay coil in the CPU. BUT if you go and pull the METER fuse, you'll only have 12vdc on the black/white wire because it gets fed from the ENGINE fuse and the white/black by the METER fuse. So, the one that has 12vdc should go on the top of that plug and the other wire, the one that has no power since you pulled the METER fuse, goes on the bottom.

The last paragraph might NOT apply to you because I THINK you did some sort of work around with the alternator wiring. I forget.

The one thing for sure, is that the top wire should have switched 12vdc to it. The bottom wire has no real function as far as the alternator working or not. It only effects the idiot light performance.

EDIT: I just looked at the alternator wiring in the FSM. It seems to me if you had 12vdc on that white/black wire, then that would put 12vdc on the *field* of the alternator all the time. There'd be no real regulation of the output of the alternator. Just guessing.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

actually i think i might have swapped the two wires that i ran to fem-01 because someone mentioned the erraticness of my battert voltage in my log and thats the only thing i had to do w/ the charging system , but I have b/w going to b/w(Br/R) and w/b goin to w/b(Br/B) seems correct according to the diagrams and you. would it cause my car to rev to 3k and then die? and i dont know if ur familiar w/ datalogit but could you take a look at my battery voltage in my log and tell me what you think. also you have to keep in mind that I had jumper cables hooked up to the battery from a running car thats why the voltage was so high when the car was off
https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-forum-47/pfc-alittle-insight-plz-752988/

HAILERS

I plead ignorance. I can't make heads of tails of that log. Just unfamiliar with how that is arranged.

I'd say that if when you rev it to three grand, and if the voltage is still at least 12vdc, then to me, that would not cause the engine to die. So. The queston is, what is the voltage at 3000 rpm???????? When the engine dies?

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

srry if u open it in execl it will automatically reorganize it highest rpm was 2887 and battery voltage is 12.5 volts but i didnt rev it that high it revved by itself.
battery voltage stayed at 12.5 from 2859-2887 then back down to 2734 rpm and this is all with another car running hooked up to the battery

HAILERS

The voltage doen't seem low enough to cause a problem. It's not in the 13.5 to 14 area, but not low enough to cause the engine to die.

I don't have Excell on this laptop and I'm not going to log on with the desktop. Too much trouble.

Oh. PUll the METER fuse then pull the plug off the alternator and with the meter, see if you have batt voltage on the top wire. Key to ON.