Wireing short 1988 NA
#1
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Wireing short 1988 NA
I have a short in my body harness. My EGI COMP fuse keeps blowing. I put a tester on it and ben trying to trace down the short. It goes to the main relay. W with B tracer wire and B with W tracer. The white wire just loops from the EGI COMP fuse to the relay. The B with W goes into the body harness and heads left towrds the front. The other 2 wires from the 4pin clip on the relay head into the engin compartment. These seem to be fine. I cant finde a fuse pannel diagram. If I pull the 15AMP fuse next to the 10AMP that goes to the CPU black box out the short stops. However despite how this sounds it apears not to be inside the car. I have unpluged evry plug and wire form the dash and it does not stop the short. Only 2 things do in here. pulling that fuse and pulling the clip for the ignition ON. It only hosrts when the key is turnd to ON. I have the service manual online that I have ben going through. I still can not seem to finde where the wire goes to or the short. I am on dile up so its tkaing me for ever to downlaod them. I have a pinout of the wires form the manul but no tracing diagram.
Does anyone know where the wire goes or these wires so I can trace to them. I did a smoke test getting frustrated but the only smoke came from the fuse section of coure and the end of the W with B tracer wire going into the relay. I know its not between here b/c if I pull the fuse 15AMP it dose not short.
Does anyone know where the wire goes or these wires so I can trace to them. I did a smoke test getting frustrated but the only smoke came from the fuse section of coure and the end of the W with B tracer wire going into the relay. I know its not between here b/c if I pull the fuse 15AMP it dose not short.
#2
Lives on the Forum
First off, if you still have the ACV on the engine, check the two solenoids on it first- they seem to go bad more than anything else on that circuit. Look for melted wiring insulation, blackened solenoid bodies, etc...You can also try to disconnect the solenoid connectors and reinstall a fuse to see if she blows again...
If no joy there, get back to us, and I'll go grab the schematics to go over the several circuit branches with you (whole shitload of solenoids & such once you get past the main relay)
If no joy there, get back to us, and I'll go grab the schematics to go over the several circuit branches with you (whole shitload of solenoids & such once you get past the main relay)
#3
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I have no emishions they are all removed. I just did a JDM TII swap on this and reversed the harness. It is not any part of the motor harness ither.O have ben hunting anymore help would be greatly aprechiated thx.
#4
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Geting sick of this car. My short is on the right side of the EGI COMP fuse it is grounded very well. This goes to the main relay. Can someone plz tell me where all the wires from the main relay go to?
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
You never ever ever EVER want to replace a fuse with a higher amp fuse. The fuse is there to protect the gauge of wiring. Replacing the fuse with a high amp fuse will let the wiring burn and melt causing considerably more damage than just a blown fuse or pinched/shorted wire.
#6
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I know. And did not replace the fuse. But do you know where the wires from the relay go to?
If I pull the small white connector 2 wires from the main relay the short stopes.
If I pull the small white connector 2 wires from the main relay the short stopes.
Last edited by iceblue; 03-28-05 at 01:58 PM.
#7
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Here is the best I have found in the service manuel so far. maybe it iwll make more sens to you. I checked the wires shown that if I disconnect the short goes away.
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#8
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I think I may have some more light for you. The B wire coming from the 2 pin connector from the relay pluges into a white clip under the T coil's. It is a grounding pin so it grounds it. If I unplug this my short goes away when the key is in the ON position. However if you crank the car the short is still there!
If I unplug the B with Y stripe cable from the starter the small one on a clip. And now I crank the car the starter does not turn, the fule pump pumps and the short is no longer there.
If I unplug the B with Y stripe cable from the starter the small one on a clip. And now I crank the car the starter does not turn, the fule pump pumps and the short is no longer there.
Last edited by iceblue; 03-28-05 at 03:23 PM.
#9
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A little more testing info. If I unplug the big B with Y stripe wire down by the starter that I had bolted therew the large 14mm bolt above the starter and I then hook back up the small B with Y stripe wire onto the starter and crank the car the car cranks and no short fule pump pumps and no spark still. However this is still asuming the ground clip under the T coils is unpluged. If you plug this clip in the fuse shorts when the key is in the ON position.
#10
Lives on the Forum
Whoa there- Don't crank the starter with the big negative cable disconnected from the starter area (you'll melt the smaller ground wire up near the firewall).
On an S4, here are the components that the 30A EGI COMP fuse feeds:
check connector (for the ECU codes), B/W wire (all remaining components also have B/W wires)
air bypass relay
ECU, pin 3I
air bypass solenoid valve
split air solenoid (on ACV)
pressure reg control valve solenoid (orange one)
port air solenoid valve (ACV)
EGR solenoid (yellow)
BAC valve
switching solenoid (grey)
relief solenoid (blue)
TPS check connector,+ wire
If you have zero emissions now, that whittles the list down to:
ECU
air bypass system (relay and valve)
BAC valve
So, unless you have a wiring problem (bare wire chaffing against ground somewhere from all of the solenoids removed), that leaves only 3 components to check...
On an S4, here are the components that the 30A EGI COMP fuse feeds:
check connector (for the ECU codes), B/W wire (all remaining components also have B/W wires)
air bypass relay
ECU, pin 3I
air bypass solenoid valve
split air solenoid (on ACV)
pressure reg control valve solenoid (orange one)
port air solenoid valve (ACV)
EGR solenoid (yellow)
BAC valve
switching solenoid (grey)
relief solenoid (blue)
TPS check connector,+ wire
If you have zero emissions now, that whittles the list down to:
ECU
air bypass system (relay and valve)
BAC valve
So, unless you have a wiring problem (bare wire chaffing against ground somewhere from all of the solenoids removed), that leaves only 3 components to check...
#11
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I have found what wire the short is in. The 4 plug pin in the main relay it is hte black with white tracer wire. This wire goes into the harness and T's off and I have not ben able to track down where it goes.
All a sudden a new problem with it accourd. The black wire with white stripe that is part if the 2 pin coonector on the relay is the 12V powering of the realy. It kicked on when the key is placed to ON. This suddenly stoped working but if I jump the wire it kicks evrything on in the car. I dont know where it goes. If I am correct from tracking in a inside trace it went into the top half of the harness and splits over towrds the passengers side and have not ben any more successfull here.
All a sudden a new problem with it accourd. The black wire with white stripe that is part if the 2 pin coonector on the relay is the 12V powering of the realy. It kicked on when the key is placed to ON. This suddenly stoped working but if I jump the wire it kicks evrything on in the car. I dont know where it goes. If I am correct from tracking in a inside trace it went into the top half of the harness and splits over towrds the passengers side and have not ben any more successfull here.
#13
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I will look in morning. I was just stating my nights progress.
thx for the information it helps alot!
thx for the information it helps alot!
Last edited by iceblue; 03-28-05 at 10:36 PM.
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