Good Day,

I am trying to get my S4 NA Lemons car ready for the season. This car was my wifes track day / autocross car. It has been street legal for some time and we would like to keep it that way.

Unfortunately with the roll cage, we took the dash out. I don't plan on using the stock headlight switch.

My question is, how do I wire a toggle switch for the low beams, and one for the high beams? I would like the toggle switch to turn on the tail lights, run the headlight motors properly, and turn on the low beams.

I would like the high beam switch to shut off the low beams and turn on the high beams.

To clarify, what wires (location and colors please) do i need to supply voltage to? I will be running a relay for the headlight switch (so I don't hurt the switch).


I have the diagrams, but I am not sure what parts are internal to the switch and what are external.

If I ground the W/L wire at the headlight relay, do the headlights pop-up and turn on, or just turn on?


Thanks,

Rob R.

 

The headlight motor relay is integral with the switch.
Duplicating the functions of the stock switch is very difficult...I've tried.
If at all possible, I'd try to integrate the Mazda switch, indeed, the entire circuit, just as stock.
That would by far be the easiest route to go.

Should you decide to ignore that advice, look at the wiring for a FD instead of the FC.
The two cars do exactly the same thing (pop up lights) but the FD uses less integrated switchgear (no internal relays) and it may be easier to duplicate that layout with more common/standard switches and relays.

 

Thanks for the info! I will look into that.

 

Just an idea. I haven't tested if that would work but maybe you could take out just the rotary switch, put the switch box somewhere where you have enough place and use other switches which you wire to the box. You would have to find out which contacts the rotary switch closes on the circuit board when the headlights go up and wire the new switches to those contacts.

I hope you understand what I mean because english is not really my first language.

 

Ya, I got it. I could look into doing exactly that.


Thanks!

Rob R.

 

Can we see a pic of the dash (or lack thereof) that you're working with?
Also, are you avoiding the stock switch because of it's size or the complexity of the wiring?

Were it not for the retractor motors, just getting lighting is dead simple.
Have you considered altering the nose so the lights work when down?
That would not only eliminate the wiring snarl but also save the weight of the motors/linkages.
A different approach to a similar end, no doubt fraught with it's own difficulties, but bypassing electrical altogether.

At any rate, pop-ups or no, you'll need three discrete switch functions (whether integrated in one as stock or three separate switches...makes no matter) to duplicate stock function.
One for the TNS relay, one for LOW and one for HIGH.