Yup. In Texas, we have two seasons. Two and a half, sometimes.

Summer, Spring, and occasionally fall.

 

I put deep wide treaded snow tires on it and drive it when there is 4" of snow on the ground when I have to.

Last year there was a few times I drove it with 3+" of snow on the road. Was not to bad actually with the tires I picked.

This is my daily driver, so I have no choice.

 

I just wanna get one thing done.
Swap in the GTUs rear diff I've had sitting in my living room since March.

 

If it's just sitting there in your living room, change out the diff (keep the ring and pinion) for either a S4 GXL diff or a Miata T2 Torsen.....you'll thank me later.

 

Doesn't sound like many people drive in de snow. I'm debating a drive uptown in the rain with no tread on my rears to pick up some new ones. Whee-ha.

 

-Add a kenne bell boost-a-pump to the walbro
-Snowperformance meth. injection
-Rebuild (again )
-Paint and body (Genuine Bomex kit)
-GT 3574 plain bearing Aspec turbo (T04-R was too lazy down low)
-Custom dual exhaust with 3" dolphin tail tips

 

that would require me spending several hundred dollars more
no thanks

 

then enjoy crappy LSD characteristics as your tires refuse to hold a slide for an extended period of time. Kinda kills the buzz of sliding the car.

 

Why the hell would I wanna slide the car when I have zero interest in drifting?
It's also kinda frowned upon when autocrossing.
Hoosier AS04's don't really like give up their grip either.
Now if you still have the original diff still sitting around from your GTUs I'd be happy to take it off your hands.

 

This winter is my rear end project:

-Drop Subframe and dissasemble everything
-Sandblast subframe and trailing arms
-POR 15 those same parts
-Cat Black for the rest
-New wheel bearings
-DTSS eliminators
-New Trailing Arm Bushings
-Rear Camber Adjustable Links
-Build Rear Diff
* 4.3:1 R&P
* New Carrier and Pinion Bearings
* FD Torsen Carrier
* Sand Blast and POR 15 3rd member housing
* Sand Blast and clear coat aluminum diff housing
* Delrin Rear Diff mounts
* MazdaComp Front Diff mount
New Rubber Sub Frame Mounts

Also going to be putting in harnesses and a harness bar.

 

Drive it and try not to freeze to death with no heat.

 

Oh snap! Forgot about the bushings.

Well, thats another thing I just added to my list.

Changing 20 year old bushings is a PITA....

 

More like just to have fun once in awhile, on a throwaway run. I run the GTUs diff now and it's alright, I'd rather have the Miata Torsen in AutoX. How long have you been autox'ing for?

I'm not the biggest fan of the DTSS eliminators. I had a barely working DTSS system in my car and while the feedback was very vague, I could step on the gas a lot earlier going through corners than after I put the eliminators in. The instructors even commented that the rear felt a lot more washy after I put them in. Though, one thing I am glad for is that when I took the DTSS bushings out, they were almost about to fail, so I'm glad I changed them out for eliminators. I'd rather have a new DTSS system but Mazda doesn't sell any from the factory.

 

i have so much **** to fix its not even funny.
-passenger window switch
- clutch safety switch
- banjo bolt leaking oil from oil cooler
- intercooler piping blowing off at 18-20 psi

 

 

$700 or so and you could have it back.

 

Pull the n/a engine, clean the engine compartment and get rid of any usless stuff.

Install the T2 engine (currently in the building process)

buy/install the Carbon Fiber T2 hood

repaint my wheels and buy new tires

fix my current seat brackets

fix my sticky moon roof

paint my mirrors and spoiler

get a new door and passenger fender (with the same paint color)

get a new pass side door handle (same paint color)

lowering springs and AGX struts

sway bars (frt/rear)

adjustable links

frt/rear strut bars

FMIC

Racing beat Rev 2 exhaust

etc.

 

I am not sure what condition mine are in. I do not belive they have catastrophically failed, but i do not have the car dialed in to to my driving style now. I like a somewhat loose setup. And right now, under power coming out of turns the car pushes. And it feels like it is partially due to the DTSS because it is a modulating handling characteristic. I would rather the car feal solid all the time so i can use camber, spring rates, tire pressures, and damper settings to dial in the car to my liking, rather than setting the car up and having the DTSS messing with things in the middle of a turn.

 

i believe i will be plowing the roads around me unless i can find a beater
i did all the mods i can afford this spring

 

Now I would love a torsen but I happen to have the GTUs rear sitting in my livingroom right now. It should be way better than the original open diff I am currently running. This is my third year of running the 7 at autoX, previous to that I was running a 92 BMW E36 325is and a 69 VW Kharmann Ghia (slow but fun!).
I have been surprised how much use I've gotten out of the AS04's: three very full seasons of autocross and some time trial events down at VIR thrown into the mix.
I also have a ton of little stuff to go in the car too;
brakelines, torque brace, new speakers and so on
and depending on how finances look I'll get some more big ticket items

 

Yea......stupid Mazda not selling just the bushing......I don't want a whole hub!!!

I'll probablly get it when I have nothing left to do to the FC but that, in the meantine, slower lap times!

I don't even want to know how that car got there................

On my last autox, to end the run, there was a wide open sweeper with a bump at the start, coming off a fast slalom section. I already knew my run wasn't going to be better than my best, so I said **** it and used the bump and full throttle to initiate my drift. Stupid thing wouldn't keep sliding even at WOT, after awhile, it was spin or straighten........All I wanted to do was to have some fun!!!

Oh it's definitely going to be better than the open, and immensly better than the broken open I have in my other car. The car won't even slide in the rain in first gear WOT. Methinks, if that car ever lost traction, I'd be really really screwed.

 

intreasting.. p-port was one of the two choices i had

Are you building your own housings? if i decide to go pport i planned on it using scalliwags method

what style are you planning on? iw as going to go either with a traditional D port or possibly completly square

idea's on timming? i want something that will maintain a realisitic powerband (no im not asking for tq at 3k) but i dont want to have to wind my motor past 10, or close to that even

 

I forget who it was but one guy made a p-port with D shaped port and I think he was able to maintain idle and a nice power band.

 

I'll be driving the 7 snow or shine.

 

letting my turbo breathe in some cold air. it likes it. alot.