window problem!
i have a problem with my power windows.. the passenger side goes up,but only can be controlled my the driver side..
and the driver side does not go up at all.. ive checked to see if there is power and there is no power running through the passenger side at all
what may be the problem?
cant wind my window down and it gets reall hot.. ahahaH cant use a/c all the time.
and the driver side does not go up at all.. ive checked to see if there is power and there is no power running through the passenger side at all
what may be the problem?
cant wind my window down and it gets reall hot.. ahahaH cant use a/c all the time.
Take apart the driver's side switch and polish up the contacts. It also helps to bend them a bit to make a better connection when you move the switch. I've replaced one that completely broke, but others I've fixed this way.
If you have to, you can jumper the positive up/down connections and the ground until you can get things working again
.
If you have to, you can jumper the positive up/down connections and the ground until you can get things working again
.
Other have just dump the original switch and wired in rocker switches. But due to the Mazda design, you need to use high amp rocker switches :P
As for the A/C, just have it checked out. Hopefully it is just out of freon and not a leak. Get a good a/c shop to check it out. Remember FCs uses R12 or a blend of R12 freon gas :P
As for the A/C, just have it checked out. Hopefully it is just out of freon and not a leak. Get a good a/c shop to check it out. Remember FCs uses R12 or a blend of R12 freon gas :P
rotary rocket88 is right, i had same problem on my 86 gxl and i priced out a new switch it was outrageous, i took about the assembly and clean the connections witha pencil eraser and that was it!, if neither passenger or driver works then check fuse, if one side or the other works then its not the fuse check the connections, they get all crud and **** on them.
Take apart the driver's side switch and polish up the contacts. It also helps to bend them a bit to make a better connection when you move the switch. I've replaced one that completely broke, but others I've fixed this way.
If you have to, you can jumper the positive up/down connections and the ground until you can get things working again
.
If you have to, you can jumper the positive up/down connections and the ground until you can get things working again
.Other have just dump the original switch and wired in rocker switches. But due to the Mazda design, you need to use high amp rocker switches :P
As for the A/C, just have it checked out. Hopefully it is just out of freon and not a leak. Get a good a/c shop to check it out. Remember FCs uses R12 or a blend of R12 freon gas :P
As for the A/C, just have it checked out. Hopefully it is just out of freon and not a leak. Get a good a/c shop to check it out. Remember FCs uses R12 or a blend of R12 freon gas :P
cheers
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Yeah i Have the same problem but i have contact in the terminals my window wont go up , sometimes i can hear the switch turning on but not allowing the window to go up , Ive had some luck with the window working but it just wont budge, Ive clean it, scraped it, replaced fuses but nothing happens, I was thinking of rewiring the circuit so on the drivers side the left button would make the window go up and down. What should I do if i have nothing else. is it possible to put in a manual crank window if so let me know. Thanx
ive found out that its my power window motor.. so im getting that replaced..
and the passenger side is a fuse problem... Mejia would u know where the fuse is located? since uve replaced it before..
and the passenger side is a fuse problem... Mejia would u know where the fuse is located? since uve replaced it before..
Yeah i Have the same problem but i have contact in the terminals my window wont go up , sometimes i can hear the switch turning on but not allowing the window to go up , Ive had some luck with the window working but it just wont budge, Ive clean it, scraped it, replaced fuses but nothing happens, I was thinking of rewiring the circuit so on the drivers side the left button would make the window go up and down. What should I do if i have nothing else. is it possible to put in a manual crank window if so let me know. Thanx
So it can't be a fuse if the drivers window works in any way shape or form
Do you not see the diagram... the passengers window uses the same fuse as the drivers window... it is the same 30 amp power window fuse. In fact both power and ground for the passengers switch runs through the drivers power window switch. Do you not see the diagram?
So it can't be a fuse if the drivers window works in any way shape or form
So it can't be a fuse if the drivers window works in any way shape or form
cos im not getting any current through the passenger side but i am getting full power from the driver's side
These power window motors rarely fail, unless the motor was submerged under water?
You can test the motors with cordless tool batteries.
We used to use those common Makita 9VDC cordless drill batteries to test circuits all the time.
Since it's a DC voltage motor, you can use anything up to like an 18VDC battery.
Just use some piece of wires and wire the connector straight to the battery.
The voltage is just reverse to go the opposite way, so you can test the window motor going up and down very easily.
-Ted
You can test the motors with cordless tool batteries.
We used to use those common Makita 9VDC cordless drill batteries to test circuits all the time.
Since it's a DC voltage motor, you can use anything up to like an 18VDC battery.
Just use some piece of wires and wire the connector straight to the battery.
The voltage is just reverse to go the opposite way, so you can test the window motor going up and down very easily.
-Ted
you have a bad drivers switch.
See the power for the drivers switch, runs through the passengers window lock out in the drivers switch and then across the car to the passengers switch.
So the only other issue would be something unplugged in the kick panel at the door harnesses.
So to test...The black/blue should have power coming out of it, with the key on and the lock out off.
If the Black/Blue at the driver switch has power coming out, and the black/Blue at the passengers switch does not have power, one of the door harnesses is unplugged.
If the black/blue does not have power coming out of the driver switch when the passengers window lock out switch in the drivers switch is off you have a bad driver's switch.
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Apoc3D
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
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Sep 5, 2015 10:24 AM



