so your car doesnt catch on fire.

 

so i dont need the PD?

 

There have been debates about the PD, some prefer to keep it others think it's not necessary. I for one removed mine from my Modded TII and haven't had a problem in four years. (noticable problem)

It certainly eliminates the chance of an engine fire due to failure...

 

well i guess ill throw one of my extra banjo bolts in while im down there...i think im gonna remove all the extra vacuum lines this weekend...maybe i just have a VAC problem and thatll fix it? what do i do with the fuel lines when i remove the vac system? i didnt understand it while reading the writeup

 

this might be your whole problem my friend !

 

i hope not...cause ive been trying to fix it for like 3 weeks...only discovered this crack last night...IF THAT FIXES IT ILL GO NUTS....where can i get a fitting that size?

its the rubber fitting thats directly connected to the turbo...small crack that goes about 1/4 way up the rubber....could that make my idle THAT bad...

would it make my engine compensate by giving it more fuel?

would it cause bucking while trying to cruise at a constant speed?

why would it idle right if i pinched the fuel line?

why would it idle lower if i bogged it down by letting the clutch out in gear?

can anyone answer any of those?

-Matt

 

as for the fuel lines you need to go to the parts store and get the right length's for the feed and return...your just bypassing what used to be their,the rats nest....its prob. dif. somewhat than my n/a rats nest but someone will know the size and length's youll need....and what fitting are you talking about?? get some RTV and see if that fixes the idle????if it does then you can make a new TID...

 

i already have a new TID...its not that, its the fitting that goes up from the turbo towards the intercooler...

 

its the rubber fitting thats directly connected to the turbo...small crack that goes about 1/4 way up the rubber....could that make my idle THAT bad... yep

would it make my engine compensate by giving it more fuel? yep

would it cause bucking while trying to cruise at a constant speed?not sure

why would it idle right if i pinched the fuel line?

why would it idle lower if i bogged it down by letting the clutch out in gear?because your putting a load on the motor

can anyone answer any of those?

im guessing a vac leak can cause more fuel and its trying to compensate for the leak....my guess...

 

it stays idling at 800 (not perfectly smoooth) but it stays there...after i let off the clutch though

 

sometimes mine idles high..say 1000 rpms or so.
i can bog it down and put the clutch back in and it'll idle right at 750.
if i tap the gas, it'll idle high again.
somehow there are two idle levels and it chooses high unless i make it switch to low.
but then there are times that it'll idle high for a few seconds and go down on it's own.


BTW: i never had any idleing issues after installing my walbro. still using stock FPR and most likely the original PD. ~137k miles.

 

sounds very similiar to whats happening to me ^^^

are you running super rich?

hows your gas mileage?

 

i get about 18-20 city/hwy driving. if i were to drive strictly hwy, i think i get around 22mpg.

super rich?....doubt it. no black smoke that i can see, however, my bumper turns yellow to brown around the exhaust tips. not sure if that's oil or fuel soot stains.

 

I'd wager faulty water thermosensor, AIT sensors (either AFM or intake), or similar.

As for those two idle levels, that's a common problem when your throttle cable has too much tension and is really setting the idle for the car instead of the throttle stop screws.

 

Okay, well i just went back and REDID my whole intake system. made sure everything was all set...

took apart my TID and put RTV in all the connections...

then there was a crack right after my turbo before my IC, in the rubber connector that connects to the pipe going up towards IC...so i replaced that connector with another one i had...much softer...and new clamps.

..then i replaced the hose with new clamps that go from there to the BAC valve, then i replaced the 90 degree connector that goes from there to the IC...then the 90 degree that goes from the other side of the IC to the TB...

i gotta wait for my RTV to dry on my intake, so ill start it in the morning and let you know how it worked...


-Matt

 

none of it payed off...still same problem...im gonna leave the stock fuel pump in until i figure this out...then ill swap it back

 

Is it any better with the stock pump?

 

no, not really, but i put it in there the other day and well...i dont feel like swapping back right now. It will eliminate one more possible problem too...

I guess its time to remove the rats nest to simplify my VAC system?

 

sorry it didnt help man....youll get it....

 

i just dont get it anymore...i dont know what else i could have done wrong...when i swapped the injectors i was very careful about putting it all back right, and i cant think of anything i didnt do right...

i guess if i simplify my VAC system itll be easier to diagnose...but from what i have heard a lot of people who do it just have their car running worse after...who knows...its worth a shot i guess

 

^ that's only because they dont follow directions.

 

i got the writeup from Rotary Ressurection for the S4 TII...my car...so im gonna go directly by that.

 

Have you tried the DIY boost leak checker?
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Also,
on my GTU-TII, with a walbro, I had to take out quite a bit of fuel at idle with my SAFC to get it smoothed out.

 

^^^ that is sick...im gonna try that tomorrow...

 

If you hear a leak, but can't tell where its coming from,
Make a shadetree stethoscope.
Grab a few foot length of Vac hose,
put one end in your ear, & poke the other end around under the intake.
you should be able to hear exactly where its at.
I found a leak at my LIM to block gasket, & replaced it.