Why would a convertible highbeam switch only work intermittantly?!
11-27-01, 12:18 PM
#1
Rotary Freak
Thread Starter
Why would a convertible highbeam switch only work intermittantly?!
I was working on my mothers 1991 'vert and after doing TONS of work to get it "barking" 2nd again, I noticed that the headlight switch was acting funny.
This was apparently like this before i started.
When you pull the switch the high beams come on but wont stay on, the will stay lit for about 1-2 seconds, and the shut off, back to low beams!
WTF?!!!
I cant get the HB to stay on.
The switches are the kind of that mount on the steering column and together they look like bug antennas or somthing.
Anyone know what im saying here?
Anyone had this problem with the headlights.
This was apparently like this before i started.
When you pull the switch the high beams come on but wont stay on, the will stay lit for about 1-2 seconds, and the shut off, back to low beams!
WTF?!!!
I cant get the HB to stay on.
The switches are the kind of that mount on the steering column and together they look like bug antennas or somthing.
Anyone know what im saying here?
Anyone had this problem with the headlights.
11-27-01, 12:42 PM
#2
Seduced by the DARK SIDE
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Orange Park FL (near Jax)
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This is a two stage switch. It sounds like you can pull on the flash-to-pass switch, but if you pull harder to click the high-low switch, the switch mount gives way. The Haynes manual shows how to remove the switch cowl. As you may already know the plastic in all 10 year old cars gets brittle. No matter how gentle you are, the screw posts will crack. . Here is the trick – Bondo Marine Epoxy Putty Stick. You knead up a bean sized blob and mould it around each screw post to reinforce it. It takes 2-3 hours to do the whole thing. The wiper switch will be needing a new relay before long, so you will be in here again. Good Luck..
11-27-01, 01:25 PM
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2001
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I know exactly what you're saying and had that exact problem with my '90 vert.
The problem is not in the switch, but in the CPU located in the kick panel next to your left foot. The relay in the CPU is responsible for turning on the high beams (you may have noticed they reset to low beams when you turn off the car). When the soldering (not the relay) gets old, high beams tend to stop working, as well as the door chimes and alarm system.
You need to take out the CPU and resolder the bad (or just do them all like I did) joints. After done resoldering, plug the CPU back in and test it before completely reinstalling it.
I had to resolder one connection 4 times (the last time I really caked it on) before it would work for more than 2-3 switches and then burn back out. The complete resolder was over a year ago. It's been fine ever since.
A writeup on the resolder can be found here:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/faq/FAQ.html#S2
The problem is not in the switch, but in the CPU located in the kick panel next to your left foot. The relay in the CPU is responsible for turning on the high beams (you may have noticed they reset to low beams when you turn off the car). When the soldering (not the relay) gets old, high beams tend to stop working, as well as the door chimes and alarm system.
You need to take out the CPU and resolder the bad (or just do them all like I did) joints. After done resoldering, plug the CPU back in and test it before completely reinstalling it.
I had to resolder one connection 4 times (the last time I really caked it on) before it would work for more than 2-3 switches and then burn back out. The complete resolder was over a year ago. It's been fine ever since.
A writeup on the resolder can be found here:
http://www.teamfc3s.org/faq/FAQ.html#S2
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