Whizbang

So....i redid my brakes today. and of course, when i did the fronts on the TII, all the fluid goes bye bye. so i go to bleed the system. didnt go quite as planned. the rears will not bleed. i spent 2 hours pumping and bleeding and used 32oz of fluid and still. air coming out. so i think i haves a leak seeing this is only coming from the rears. the fronts are fine. THe booster has a trail of fluid on the front of it. would that be the problem? its not a major leak but could it be bringing in air somehow? im getting kinda pissed.

Icemark

probably loosening the bleed valve too far, no more than half a turn is needed

Whizbang

could the leak on the booster be bringing in air though?

Icemark

no

Whizbang

hmm...interesing, that is what i get for having my friend help me

Icemark

The only thing that could be influencing a leak is, a leaking master cyl, or a leak in the system, or a too loose bleeder

Whizbang

ill try to see if the screw was coming too far. but we would hold the pedal down...untighted...until the air stopped, then tighten. let go of the pedal. then repeat. we pumped it too before depressing to build pressure

WAYNE88N/A

If you have a helper, there's a better way to do this, because having to tighten down the bleeder at the exact moment the other guy lifts the pedal is too exacting...

Open the bleeder, put your finger over the hole. Keep it there...Now have your friend pump the brakes to his/her heart's content. Keep an eye on the reservoir, of course...

You'll be able to feel (and hear) any bubbles with your fingertip, and you'll also be able to feel when unmolested fluid comes. Once this happens, close down the bleeder, remove your finger, enjoy the little circular hole you now have in your finger (it'll go away, lol), and proceed to the next caliper to be bled...

Try to keep the fluid spray from being directed towards the rotor, BTW

Whizbang

we did that too. still getting air. the problem is. air and fluid keep coming out. like air is coming from something farher up the line. i am getting bubbles in the resiouver too.

Whizbang

thats what i said. the booster / cyclinder come together point is leaking fluid. could that be it?

WAYNE88N/A

Yep...Obviously...Especially if you're getting bubbles in the reservoir...

jhammons01

Sorry to ask, There are two bleeders on the rear calipers. (not sure for all models.) did you bleed the bottem bleeder on the left rear first???

If the system is bringing in new air. it has to be from the plastic res on top of the MC and/or the rubber seals just under the plastic Resivior.

unek87

i agree with icemark on the leaking mc cause i had the same problem as you do .come to find out it was my mc then a week later my brake booster went out out . i guess cause of the brake parts i had put on and to anwser the ^ ? you really only got to bleed the top bleeder screw from what i know (thats what i've done) and the bleeding goes- rear pass,rear drivers,front pass,front driver. in that order

Whizbang

can i fix / rebuild the mc or booster? any kits for this?

jhammons01

I'm sorry, My bad. I am half asleep. RR then LR, then RF then LF.

I still say bleed the lower bleeders first.

Icemark

you can rebuild the M/C, not the booster.

The booster does not have fluid in it (that is why I said it won't be the booster), so if it has fluid leaking out of it then it might be wasted as well, but the fluid would have come from a bad/leaking master cyl

If you are lucky, just the master cyl is leaking, and it has just ran out between the booster and the M/C

Whizbang

could i just take the mc off and replace the gasket between?

unek87

it most likely better to just get a mc from autozone or something i think oreillys had it for the cheapest price plus your core then you dont have to really worry bout that part of the system . if you do get a new mc from a parts store most of the time you have to swap over you res tank but thats not a problem really just a lil elbow grease

jhammons01

If the fluid is running out of the back of the MC (or between the MC and the booster) you have a problem. Unek is right......just go get another one. Watch out however 'cause there is different ones out there. Some are selling the MC with a new res on top for $150 YOu can get an MC for around $40 bux and if you are really carefull you can transfer your res from the top of the old one to the new one.......be really careful cause its old plastic and easy to break. Use gear oil on the o-rings when going back together to make it slip in easily.

Node

iTrader: (1)

i did the exact thing after i removed and bypassed my ABS

when you're bleeding DO NOT push the pedal to the floor, it will give you a leaky master cylinder and you will NEVER bleed your brakes. I need a new/rebuilt brake master cylinder now


Went through ****** 6 bottles of brakefluid. Figured since I cut my lines totally apart there was just a looooooooooooot of air, wrong. It shouldnt take anywhere near the amount of fluid i wasted.

It was pulling air from a leak in the master cylinder

BTW didnt even read the thread, just read past of the mouseover when clicking. haha

Node

iTrader: (1)

btw autozone sells rebuilt master cylinders with a core and rebuild kits
I think its like $85 w/ $40 core refund when you return your old one


the rebuilds around the same, like $40 or something...

Whizbang

hmm...ill have to get her off there sometime this week then.

how can putting the pedal to the floor kill the mc when bleeding?

RockLobster

iTrader: (7)

Speed Bleeders are the best thing since sliced bread.

I have also found that the aluminum front 4 pistion calipers threads for the line and bleeders strip easily and if they do you will not be able to bleed the brakes cause air will bypass into the system.

I would also say though that your MC sounds suspect. They are cheap and rebult ones are worth the box they come in. Buy new.