Hanzo

Am I running on 1 rotor?

adamlewis

#1 Roataries sound DIRTY!

#2 Get a compression check

rico05

What modifications have you done? Exhaust leak is possible. I really dobut running on 1 rotor is gonna dramatically alter the exhaust noise. Mine sounds like a lawnmower on crak because I have a full exhaust on mine...

Roy James

LoL, i second Rico05 on the exhaust leak and full exhaust... my **** is nnnnaasstttyyy as a mo fo, full 2.5" single on free flow muffler with header. DAMN

rico05

Racing Beat header, racing beat presilencer, N1 single. With custom exhaust leak But that is taken care of now.

Hanzo

The car is stock and there is a hole before the left muffler however, the sound is coming from the intake/exhaust side of the car, it is coming from under the hood. Is my engine about to die?

Also when I rev up the RPM to about 45k there is a weird beeping/spluttering or sounds like when you take a piece of paper and put it against a moving fan coming from near the intake/exhaust side of the engine, I am so confused. Does this mean I have a bad turbo, bad ignition coil or bad cat?

I bought a compression tester however it doesn't screw in the sparkplug hole so I am going to try to buy an adapter or if not just get Mazda to do the test.

I feel so down, since I bought this car it hasn't run correctly at all.

dre_2ooo

Free Flowing RX-7 Exhaust = Sounds like a CHAINSAW.

rico05

Exhaust leak. Probally a cracked exhaust manifold. This happens pretty frequently. I really think you are fine. Just check for leaks in the exhaust system. Your engine is more than like fine internally.

Hanzo

Will a cracked exhaust manifold also cause unstable idling? My rpm will stay at 1000 at idle and jump up a little and come back down, it just keeps doing that. Sometimes with I rev it up in neutral and letting out the throttle it will drop below 1000 and sometimes stall out.

rico05

Yes it will. I really think it is a exhaust/intake leak and not a blown seal. The exhaust sound will not change due to a blown seal that much. Get the muffler fixed, and find that leak, and you should be fine. You will have to take off the exhaust manifold to really tell if it is cracked, which is pretty easy. Just get a Hayne's or Factory Service Manual to see how to do it. If the manifolds are cracked, look around for a good used one for cheap.

Hanzo

Thank you so much, I already bought a Haynes manual I just need to fix/patch up that exhaust hole and find the leak. You guys have been great.

rico05

Anytime. Let us know how it turns out!!! Happy rotoring!!

Hanzo

Certainly will, thanks again.

aZizzo

Yeah, i had an exaust leak on a 95 blazer and the idle was all messed up, the RPM's kept jumpin all weird. After it was patched up the truck was back to normal.

Splortch

Check your plug wires!

Hanzo

By "plug wires" you mean sparkplug right? I have already replaced the wires and plugs.

Hanzo

Yesterday I found that the rubber hose connecting to the turbo intake side has a crack on it. I am hoping that is what causes the sound. I am looking form that part right now on the internet however it is so expensive. I think it is $140ish on www.mazdatrix.com. Anyone know a cheaper place to buy OEM parts?

Could that little crack cause it to make that loud of a sound?

The Ace

Thats the TID. It surely could cause all the above that you have mentioned. Dont bother buying a new one. Just make yourself a nice TID with the well-know mod, and enjoy

Hanzo

How do I make myself a TID? Is there an instruction?

The Ace

Yeah, about a million....

You basically need a 3"-2" silicone reducer, a 45' PVC tube, a 3" rubber connector, clamps, and a way to plumb the BOV back into the intake.

Go here and you'll see what I mean: http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/techmaster.html
and click on "Turbo Inlet Duct Mod".

While you're there, take a look around. You'll see lots of useful information and hints

No7Yet

Here's my write up that I posted to the FCs email list:

---
Another writeup in my long series... :-)

The subject of this writeup is what I call the "Fooshemeister TID mod"
(that's pronounced Foo'-shuh-my-ster). This mod replaces the entire stock
airbox, as well as the really, really, really ugly stock turbo inlet. The
stock TID also likes to develop cracks around the turbo inlet, resulting in
a vacuum leak and bad idle. Oh, it opens up the engine bay and looks cool,
too.

If you haven't done the emissions removal, there're two emissions fittings
that you'll have to deal with. I suppose you could simply open-air them,
but plumbing them back into the TID is the "best" way (short of ridding
yourself of them). I've also open-air'ed my BOV for simplicity's sake (yeah
right).

If you want, you can use silicone here instead of rubber. In that case,
revise part #1 to a 3"-2.5" reducer. Silicone is "better", but I'm a po'
college student, and that extra $12 or so is a meal for me. <grin>

There are also a million different things that you can use for the BOV
check valve. I used the vacuum breaker that I did because it was the only
thing that Home Depot had :-) BDC recommends a "swing valve tee" (whatever
that is), and there are some really expensive check valves that you can buy
from Grainger or Norgstrom. Mine cost $3, and works well after some
modding. Yay!

You'll need:
- 1 3"-2" heavy rubber reducer
- 1 3" 45 deg PVC bend, *no bushings*
- 1 3" heavy rubber coupler
- 1 K&N Universal cone filter w/ 2-7/8" outlet
- 1 brass Vacuum breaker (in the water section)
- 1 3/4" plastic hose barb (near the vac breaker)

1) Remove the stock airbox and TID.

2) Look at the turbo side of the TID. See the crack under the clamp? That
may be why your idle was lumpy.

3) Assemble the TID. You're going reducer->bend->coupler->AFM->cone.

4) With some needlenose pliers, carefully remove the spring from the vacuum
breaker. You see, the cracking pressure for that thing is about 3 psi,
which is way too high (I was getting slight compressor surge with it
unmodified). Cut it such that there are about 3 coils left, from
the "small" end. Stretch and bend it until it's about the same
size/diameter as the entire spring was. You may have to install/remove the
spring a few times before you get it right. You're modifying it such that
the cracking pressure is closer to .25 psi (you should be able to blow
through it pretty easily). This mini-mod completely eliminated all my surge.

5) With some spare hose, attach the breaker-barb assembly to the BOV.

Enjoy! This raised my boost by about a pound (est), and MAN does it sound
cool! I can now HEAR the turbo spooling up, and the valve I used makes a
really odd groaning sound when it's blowing off. You'll also get a lot
better at keeping the car out of boost, since you can now hear
the "pssshhh" of the turbo spinning up. Boost comes on slightly faster, but
no earlier in the revs.

Brandon
---

It's cake! And your car will sound cool as hell. Feel free to replace the check valve with the biggest one you can find, just make sure that its cracking pressure is 1 PSI or less (you should be able to blow through it pretty easily.

And don't worry about the emissions fittings too much, if you don't do an emissions removal job - you can just leave 'em open.

Good luck!
Brandon

No7Yet

Oops! I just realized - you've got an 87, right? You'll need an adapter for the AFM. IIRC, K2RD sells 'em (http://www.k2rd.com). They're cheap - get one.

Also make sure that the AFM is still mounted "flat" - if it's not, your readings will be off, and that could cause problems.

Brandon

Hanzo

I have a 88 Turbo II. I don't see the adapter on their site.

The spring from the vacuum breaker, is that the piece on the stock setup or is this a part I need to buy?

No7Yet

You may have to call about the adapter, and see if they still make it - there are a few DIY and junkyard options (an air filter bracket from a carb'd V6 Alfa Romeo or an airbox bracket from a late-80s 3-series, for instance), but they're harder to find.

The spring that I was talking about is a part of the vacuum breaker, which you'll have to buy - BTW, a vacuum breaker is a part for water hoses and such. Just call me McGuyver

Brandon

Hanzo

I went ahead and bought a brand new factory TID. Replaced it this morning however the car still has the same problem. It jumps at idle and has that same strange sound from the intake/exhaust side when I floor the accelerator. I really don't know what to do now.