ok im beggining to get frustrated, i've changed the fanclutch*brand new* thermostat*brand new* water pump*brand new* radiator unclogged, changed coolant what else could it be??
i've tested my engine at start up with the radiator cap off pull the egi fuse and nothing shoots out what could it possibly be?!?

 

im not sure if this would help any but i have an turbo 2 radiator and i havnt had any problems with over heating and i live in the desert

 

air bubble in the thermo wax?? is it N/A or Turbo?

 

it should be like at least halfway on the gauge but it always gets to 3-4 and will keep climbing if i don't let it cool down it's an 87 n/a

 

air bubble in the thermowax?

 

i have an 87 RX N/A as well and when i drained the coolant to flush it an air bubble got stuck in the system and caused the engine to run hotter then usual

just bleed the lines behind the throttle body

 

underbelly pan on? how old/ crudded up are the housings?

 

how do you blead the lines behind the throtle body?

 

Have you checked it with a different gauge? Maybe your sender bit the dust.

Can you hear the water boiling when you shut off the motor?

 

Have you checked the temps with another gauge? Maybe your sender or stock gauge went bad.

do you hear boiling water when you shut down?

 

Have you checked the temps with another gauge? Maybe your sender or stock gauge went bad.

do you hear boiling water when you shut down?

 

yup it boils

 

yup it boils and i took off my water pump and it was black as if it was burnt then when i started up my new one i heard some weird noise then it went away

 

This might be a redundant question, but is your overflow filling up? At idle is your fan clutch pulling a signifagant amount of air (when warm)?

 

I'm having trouble seeing past J-Rat's post -whoring but have you bleed the Radiator screw at It's neck?

 

Speechless....

 

i have no radiator bleeding screw, also it doesn't overflow at idle only if it gets really hot it takes about 30 mins to get hot at idle and like 15-20 when driving

 

Just razzing you Jarrett...you seem to have a fetish to do this kinda crap to me too.

 

Hmm sounds like a failing engine to me since you replaced everything else.

My car didn't blow bubbles or anything until 3 months later when it had a catastrophic melt down in under 5 minutes after getting off the highway.

You say you unclogged your radiator. How? With that bottle of stuff or did you actually remove it and take it to a shop?

Also I think TII and NA radiators are the same.

TII's run at about 1/2 on the temp gauge and S4 Na's are around 1/4.

I would get an aftermarket temp gauge and see what it's really running at.
BTW if your hitting 3/4 you are getting TOO close to the engine killing point.

3/4 on the stock S4 gauge is like 220`F.

Maybe there's a chance that there is a blockage some where else in the system? In heater core or inside block?

 

alright one question.
why do you need thermosat if you live in LA

we don`t have snow here.

sorry I don`t wanna be pessimistic.

I took my thermostat out. it`s extra money spending and it`s hot in here, lol

 

Does it cool down when you turn the heater on??

Does it get hot at idle or just on the hwy?? or Both??

You have an a/c condenser? are the fins bent on it or clogged up??

Do you have the lower cowling in place? It's a large plastic/rubber piece that bolts under the car in the front to keep air from comming in the front and going under the radiator.

 

Calm down there...we aren't at that point yet.

Check for leaks...
Check for clogged heater core (when engine hot, does heat work?)
Check for air in lines...
Verify thermostat operates (Does upper heater hose heat up)
verify water pump works correctly...
Do you still have air pump, if not, do you run dual altenator pulley?
Are your belts tight?

Also, a bunch of other stuff already listed...Sounds like a PITA, but it's part of every car.

 

AFAIK all models have basically the same radiator with small changes in the end tank and the fill cap location. A TII rad is not an "upgrade" just so you know.

 

actually digitech your right i took it to this place by my house and they did a test and they said my water seal is going...looks like i need a rebuild =/ o well guess i should start saving for a street port as well

 

That is soooo wrong.

You need a thermostat no matter what. Even if it has the center removed.

It is also used to help restrict flow out of the engine.
How are you supposed to get maximun cooling if the fluid passes right through it?

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Kevin of www.rotaryresurrection.com does a great job rebuilding although he's in TN or KY(something like that right?)

Shipping might be a bitch if R&L hasn't started business there.

Since R&L is here shipping was like $350 round trip.


You want it to stay for a little bit to help it soak up the heat.