Why are the after market oil cooler lines -10AN
04-08-13, 11:01 PM
#26
I have known of many cars with leaking and busted oil cooler lines (sometimes this results in the loss of an engine, since a busted hose means total and immediate oil pressure loss).
On the other hand, in 13 years I have never heard of or seen a bad eshaft oil pellet. Builders including myself shim or eliminate them, but they seem to be a very reliable part.
04-09-13, 11:32 AM
#27
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i see oil cooler hoses fail, but mostly they just are leaking. catastrophic failure with no warning seems really rare.
i've seen bad thermal pellets too, my first FC had one, and i have seen plenty of other FC's trailing smoke on the way to work in the morning.
it has been a while since i've seen a bad thermal pellet, maybe most of the bad ones are off the road....
i've seen bad thermal pellets too, my first FC had one, and i have seen plenty of other FC's trailing smoke on the way to work in the morning.
it has been a while since i've seen a bad thermal pellet, maybe most of the bad ones are off the road....
04-09-13, 11:50 AM
#28
We do have different opinions, except mine is based on my daily experience of designing commercial fluid systems using ammonia, steam, water (and like fluids) and ... wait for it ... oil. I haven't done the math for this specific case because I've done enough math to know the generalization off the top of my head.
Why change what's making money? Stock lines are small, the companies offer larger sizes, people buy them, why add another product to their shelves/inventory for the stockers to screw up orders with when their existing stock of inventory is working fine?
I'm sure if there were a huge run of people demanding -8AN lines, they might make them, but apparently there isn't or they don't care to (as outlined above).
I'm sure if there were a huge run of people demanding -8AN lines, they might make them, but apparently there isn't or they don't care to (as outlined above).
You're not considering both ends of the line. Going from the engine to the oil cooler, using a -8AN hose w/fittings, you're restricting the passage down (smaller than stock) then opening it back up to a larger than stock hose; then you're restricting it down (smaller than stock) and back up again to stock at the other end. That's two spots in one line where the oil passage is smaller than stock; there's two lines.
With the -10AN fittings and hose, you don't have the restriction down to smaller-than-stock; it only enlarges then restricts back down at the end only to the stock size and no less.
With the -10AN fittings and hose, you don't have the restriction down to smaller-than-stock; it only enlarges then restricts back down at the end only to the stock size and no less.
I dunno, 5 maybe. You're point is correct that it doesn't make sense to change over now. At the inception of the product there was a choice to make either size. Both perform exactly the same, require the same labor to make and have the same profit margin. Only difference is $10 cheaper raw materials. Essentially selling the same product at 190 vs 200. Economics says you'll sell more of a cheaper product. This completely ignores the fact that in reality it's fractions of a sale per year.
04-09-13, 12:15 PM
#29
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I'm tired of wasting my time with you, look it up for yourself. I have nothing to gain by researching the information or doing the calculations for you, especially since you aren't paying for my engineering time.
04-09-13, 12:30 PM
#30
I doubt any of the companies are making the lines in-house, makes more sense to sub to a specialist operation. One day Corksport (or RB or Mazdatrix) calls Mike's Hose Emporium to get some oil hoses fabbed up and Mike just happens to have a lot of dash ten laying around but dash eight would be shipped in ( causing a delay and potentially higher price), so the purchaser thinks, "When have we ever gone wrong with bigger? and the deal is done.
After the first batch is sold the original order is replaced and suddenly, dash ten is institutionalized as the hose of choice.
Not saying it happened like that but it could have been just that capricious.
04-09-13, 02:04 PM
#32
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I'm not blocked from your website but you're image isn't a broken link:
-edit-
Weird, if I navigate your heirarchy and click on the image link, it comes up. If I right-click your image and "Open in new tab", it's 403'd...
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Weird, if I navigate your heirarchy and click on the image link, it comes up. If I right-click your image and "Open in new tab", it's 403'd...
04-09-13, 07:44 PM
#37
I plan on getting those lines as well as their Turbo inlet duct, and possibly the radiator panel.
I did have their intake piping for my s4 NA as well as a cnced Maf adapter, the adapter was nice but the intake piping rubbed on the strut tower >.<
04-09-13, 11:36 PM
#38
I'm only using stock lines just to get my car going, upgrading anything for preventive maintenance is ideal but not everyone can afford to.
I plan on getting those lines as well as their Turbo inlet duct, and possibly the radiator panel.
I did have their intake piping for my s4 NA as well as a cnced Maf adapter, the adapter was nice but the intake piping rubbed on the strut tower >.<
I plan on getting those lines as well as their Turbo inlet duct, and possibly the radiator panel.
I did have their intake piping for my s4 NA as well as a cnced Maf adapter, the adapter was nice but the intake piping rubbed on the strut tower >.<
04-22-13, 09:58 AM
#41
Update: The -8 AN swept fittings and metric adapter fittings came in the other day and they actually had a 0.382" ID rather than the previously noted 0.375" ID, so there is no flow restriction compared to the factory hose fittings.
I dismounted the oil cooler and drained it over night. I made some simple mounting bracket extensions out of aluminum angle stock to lower it about 1” so that I can use swept AN fittings with the new oil cooler lines that I am making and to have enough clearance with the A/C condenser lines. I have a set of CorkSport braided SS aftermarket oil cooler lines, but I don't like the banjo fittings (same as the stock lines). I also don’t like the forged 90 degree AN fittings on the Racing Beat aftermarket SS oil cooler lines because they restrict flow too much (2 PSI drop pre fitting). So I made a set of oil cooler lines using swept -8 AN fittings, adapters fittings and Parker Hannifin 836 High Temp blue push-on hose. The hose is rated to 400 PSI and 300 degree F. I reused the foam protective sleeves from the factory oil cooler lines and added nylon spiral wrap for more abrasion resistance. The 120 degree and 45 degree angled swept fittings all worked out very well and helped to produce a nice neat and clean installation.
I also installed the Racing Beat "street" oil pressure regulator kit along with their oil filter spacer / adapter which has two gauge ports. I finish off the oil system upgrade by installing the PineApple Racing cast aluminum competition baffled oil pan. I was amazed at how much oil remained in the factory stamped steel oil pan after draining, as well as the amount that remains in the oil cooler and lines as well as in the engine passages during an oil change. No wonder why fresh oil looks so dark / dirty right after an oil change.
I dismounted the oil cooler and drained it over night. I made some simple mounting bracket extensions out of aluminum angle stock to lower it about 1” so that I can use swept AN fittings with the new oil cooler lines that I am making and to have enough clearance with the A/C condenser lines. I have a set of CorkSport braided SS aftermarket oil cooler lines, but I don't like the banjo fittings (same as the stock lines). I also don’t like the forged 90 degree AN fittings on the Racing Beat aftermarket SS oil cooler lines because they restrict flow too much (2 PSI drop pre fitting). So I made a set of oil cooler lines using swept -8 AN fittings, adapters fittings and Parker Hannifin 836 High Temp blue push-on hose. The hose is rated to 400 PSI and 300 degree F. I reused the foam protective sleeves from the factory oil cooler lines and added nylon spiral wrap for more abrasion resistance. The 120 degree and 45 degree angled swept fittings all worked out very well and helped to produce a nice neat and clean installation.
I also installed the Racing Beat "street" oil pressure regulator kit along with their oil filter spacer / adapter which has two gauge ports. I finish off the oil system upgrade by installing the PineApple Racing cast aluminum competition baffled oil pan. I was amazed at how much oil remained in the factory stamped steel oil pan after draining, as well as the amount that remains in the oil cooler and lines as well as in the engine passages during an oil change. No wonder why fresh oil looks so dark / dirty right after an oil change.
Last edited by DeaconBlue; 04-22-13 at 10:02 AM.
04-22-13, 10:19 AM
#43
MECP Certified Installer
The mazda comp mounts are nice. I installed some when I rebuilt my engine and they are great.
BTW, what the hell is that line that runs by the oil cooler that just loops around back into the engine compartment? i noticed it a few weeks ago when i was under the car, but never really investigated what they where. Part of it can be seen in your 5th picture from the left you posted.
BTW, what the hell is that line that runs by the oil cooler that just loops around back into the engine compartment? i noticed it a few weeks ago when i was under the car, but never really investigated what they where. Part of it can be seen in your 5th picture from the left you posted.
04-22-13, 12:40 PM
#46
Update: The -8 AN swept fittings and metric adapter fittings came in the other day and they actually had a 0.382" ID rather than the previously noted 0.375" ID, so there is no flow restriction compared to the factory hose fittings.
I dismounted the oil cooler and drained it over night. I made some simple mounting bracket extensions out of aluminum angle stock to lower it about 1” so that I can use swept AN fittings with the new oil cooler lines that I am making and to have enough clearance with the A/C condenser lines. I have a set of CorkSport braided SS aftermarket oil cooler lines, but I don't like the banjo fittings (same as the stock lines). I also don’t like the forged 90 degree AN fittings on the Racing Beat aftermarket SS oil cooler lines because they restrict flow too much (2 PSI drop pre fitting). So I made a set of oil cooler lines using swept -8 AN fittings, adapters fittings and Parker Hannifin 836 High Temp blue push-on hose. The hose is rated to 400 PSI and 300 degree F. I reused the foam protective sleeves from the factory oil cooler lines and added nylon spiral wrap for more abrasion resistance. The 120 degree and 45 degree angled swept fittings all worked out very well and helped to produce a nice neat and clean installation.
I also installed the Racing Beat "street" oil pressure regulator kit along with their oil filter spacer / adapter which has two gauge ports. I finish off the oil system upgrade by installing the PineApple Racing cast aluminum competition baffled oil pan. I was amazed at how much oil remained in the factory stamped steel oil pan after draining, as well as the amount that remains in the oil cooler and lines as well as in the engine passages during an oil change. No wonder why fresh oil looks so dark / dirty right after an oil change.
I dismounted the oil cooler and drained it over night. I made some simple mounting bracket extensions out of aluminum angle stock to lower it about 1” so that I can use swept AN fittings with the new oil cooler lines that I am making and to have enough clearance with the A/C condenser lines. I have a set of CorkSport braided SS aftermarket oil cooler lines, but I don't like the banjo fittings (same as the stock lines). I also don’t like the forged 90 degree AN fittings on the Racing Beat aftermarket SS oil cooler lines because they restrict flow too much (2 PSI drop pre fitting). So I made a set of oil cooler lines using swept -8 AN fittings, adapters fittings and Parker Hannifin 836 High Temp blue push-on hose. The hose is rated to 400 PSI and 300 degree F. I reused the foam protective sleeves from the factory oil cooler lines and added nylon spiral wrap for more abrasion resistance. The 120 degree and 45 degree angled swept fittings all worked out very well and helped to produce a nice neat and clean installation.
I also installed the Racing Beat "street" oil pressure regulator kit along with their oil filter spacer / adapter which has two gauge ports. I finish off the oil system upgrade by installing the PineApple Racing cast aluminum competition baffled oil pan. I was amazed at how much oil remained in the factory stamped steel oil pan after draining, as well as the amount that remains in the oil cooler and lines as well as in the engine passages during an oil change. No wonder why fresh oil looks so dark / dirty right after an oil change.
At least you've set up your car so that you'll be able to sleep well at night knowing there is no pressure drop or change in the original flow rate of your oiling system.
04-22-13, 08:21 PM
#47
Well with the ID of the new hoses being larger that the factory hard lines and the lower restriction of the swept fittings vs. the factory banjo fittings - the new oil cooler hoses should offer more flow potential and less flow restriction then the factory lines. That is important with the new higher oil pressure by-pass regulator setup.
04-23-13, 11:39 AM
#49
My point is that it seems to me like more "engineering thought" has been put into the oil lines on what is apparently a near-stock naturally aspirated car making <200hp than a most single turbo FD's.
It just seems as though there are so many other areas of maintenance, modification, or cosmetics that could use such attention, rather than debating the last 1/10th of 1% of flow through oil cooler lines.