Where to tap for Water Temp Gauge
#26
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silverrotor.....from all the posts i've been reading lately on the subject, it seems that the temp sensor under the oil pressure sender is soley used by the stock coolant gauge. The ECU reads off the thermosensor which is located on the back of the coolant neck. This is just what I've read though.
Also, I went and looked at my coolant neck right after the thermostat and mine doesn't look anything like anybody else's i've seen posted on here so far. Most people's are silver with that very convient bump on it to tap rite into. My neck is black and doesn't have that bump on it. I will try to get a pick of it later. I'm still thinking of using the stock location for my greddy gauge since it will screw right in, but I would like to have my stock gauge working also.
Also, I went and looked at my coolant neck right after the thermostat and mine doesn't look anything like anybody else's i've seen posted on here so far. Most people's are silver with that very convient bump on it to tap rite into. My neck is black and doesn't have that bump on it. I will try to get a pick of it later. I'm still thinking of using the stock location for my greddy gauge since it will screw right in, but I would like to have my stock gauge working also.
#27
Senior Member
Originally posted by Jimmy325i
If the thermostat sticks and the sender is on the back side of it you'll still get a good warning that something is wrong within the system. The block essentally all ends up the same temperature and that housing is directly fitted to a good source of heat. The t-stat housing will conduct enough heat to still run the guage in the event of a t-stat failure and alert the driver long before its too late. The air flow over the top of the engine is probably pretty neglidgible because the hood is sealed at the cowel. Any air flowing through the engine bay is being forced out the bottom of the firewall and creating a high pressure zone up where the t-stat housing is located.
If the thermostat sticks and the sender is on the back side of it you'll still get a good warning that something is wrong within the system. The block essentally all ends up the same temperature and that housing is directly fitted to a good source of heat. The t-stat housing will conduct enough heat to still run the guage in the event of a t-stat failure and alert the driver long before its too late. The air flow over the top of the engine is probably pretty neglidgible because the hood is sealed at the cowel. Any air flowing through the engine bay is being forced out the bottom of the firewall and creating a high pressure zone up where the t-stat housing is located.
If you think your way is just as accurate then I challenge you to block off your thermostat and run it until your gauge with a sensor mounted above the thermostat reads 210 degrees.
#28
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the brass of the sending unit will still conduct heat. I challenge you to actually think about what you just said to me...
Where does the heat in the coolant come from? It sure as **** isn't from the water circulating around catching all of it before any of it makes its way into the BLOCK.
I'd even go as far as to say that the temperature of the water pump housing is within 10 degrees of the temp at the filler neck. If I had a infrared temp guage I'd test that theory and post my findings.
Where does the heat in the coolant come from? It sure as **** isn't from the water circulating around catching all of it before any of it makes its way into the BLOCK.
I'd even go as far as to say that the temperature of the water pump housing is within 10 degrees of the temp at the filler neck. If I had a infrared temp guage I'd test that theory and post my findings.
#29
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Originally posted by Jimmy325i
the temperature of the water pump housing is within 10 degrees of the temp at the filler neck. If I had a infrared temp guage I'd test that theory and post my findings.
the temperature of the water pump housing is within 10 degrees of the temp at the filler neck. If I had a infrared temp guage I'd test that theory and post my findings.
#30
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Ideally you would want the sensor between the block and the thermostat. I used one of the sensors on the water pump while i had the stock computer, I forgot which one, but your shop manual tells which one doesn't go to the ECU. I have a Haltech now, so it's all good. TO actually think that heat soak through the metal and coolant is good enough is crazy. Your water seals ARE MADE OF RUBBER. I shouldn't have to explain how fragile they are. ON my next rebuild I'm actually going to tap the front houising on the driver side, above where the A/C condenser would have gone. It doesn't get any closer to the block than that. OH and not all of us have a metal filler neck. Some of us have S5's.
#31
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Yup I have an s5, and i guess i'm stuck with tapping my water pump. Besides, its the only spot with thick enough metal.
Now my question is, would i have to pull the water pump to drill/tap it, or can i just stick a tack cloth in to catch the shavings?
Thanks
-Ross
Now my question is, would i have to pull the water pump to drill/tap it, or can i just stick a tack cloth in to catch the shavings?
Thanks
-Ross
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