Okay, so I've been having idle problems recently, and even more recently I've been having worse problems keeping the idle steady at a certain point. So after researching, I think I have a vacuum leak among other probs. Pretty much, Relvinnian and I removed my air pump, and the acv and had a block off plate ready to put on. When we tried to match up the block off plate, it didn't fit up, so we assumed it was for an N/A(?) when I drive a TII. Whatever, so we made a makeshift plate, and I've been using it. It's a very thin metal, and I think that it's not keeping a complete vacuum. Which I'm hoping could explain why my car will just die sometimes when she's not in gear, and I'm not on the gas (happened today). So I need to get my hands on a REAL block off plate but for a TII. The one we had for the n/a was pretty damn thick, and I think that's my problem. Where can I acquire one? I'd appreciate any feedback. Thanks guys.

-Kanaida

 

racing beat

 

Yep RB has em. I have one of theirs myself. Fits perfect, and for like $15, can't beat it.

 

Make your own? Just pull off the housing, trace it, cut it out, drill some holes, and your set,

 

I'm not sure it that will fix your problem or not. but I just got mine in today from www.k2rd.com $10 and comes with new bolts so you can remove the long studs.

did you cap off the 3 vac line nipples when you pulled the ACV off? did it have this problem before you removed it?

is your BAC valve still on? that is what controls your idle

 

Blitz - Yeah, we DID make our own, and that's what we have in there right now. It's too flimsy though. I need thicker metal.

Scott - I've had an idle problem ever since I got her. She was idling at 1.5k before we removed the air pump and acv. My idle has become alot more speratic now that I took off the acv. About the three nipples. If you're looking at them from the front on the car, the one on the far left we ran it to the pressure sensor.. the other two to the right we put a vacuum hose on them looping them together so now they vacuum eachother. Is that bad? If so, what should I use to cap them off? We didn't mess with the BAC valve at all. Didn't have enough time. What do you think Scott?


-Kanaida

 

um I'd change that boost sensor one!! those lines come from switches that dont' see vac/boost all the time, block that one off. I think there should be abother nipple under the BAC vavle you can connect too.

does your stock boost gauge always work?

I don't think that will fix your idle but it is a engine safty thing.

 

My stock boost guage was working great, and now it doesn't because I have a FCD connected in, so now I never get any reading from the stock one. I'm looking to acquire an aftermarket boost guage.

And what should I use to cap off the non-needed 3 nipples?


-Kanaida

 

Just for an update on the block off plates.. Two people mentioned Racing Beat, and I emailed them, and this is what they said:

Due to fairly low demand, we have never produced a plate for this
application.


Best regards,

Jim Langer
Racing Beat, Inc.
714-779-8677
www.racingbeat.com

So I then emailed K2RD and they said:

There are 2 different ACV block off plates, for the turbo and non-turbo FC.
We sell both types, please check out our website.

Thanks,
Paul Ko
pko@k2rd.com
www.k2rd.com

So there. It was a N/A block off plate. Just for anyones future refference.

-Kanaida

 

bump

 

Yea im having the exact same problem on my NA. After removing my airpump and ACV mine idles at around 1600 now. I used the old ACV cluster as a makeshift block off plate. I ordered the K2RD block off plate so hopefully that'll make some sort of difference cause it looks like all the other vacuum lines are properly attached.

 

I just ordered one(N/A Cover) from Racing Beat........it is in the mail and it only cost like 10 dollars. Also Racing Beat coats the plate to resist rust as other companies do not.

 

That is so weird that they would make a block off plate for the n/a but not for the turbo.. You'd think that they would get around the same amount of requests for either of them. oh well.. k2rd works for me.

-Kanaida

 

You might go back and re-read Scott. If you are taking the *pressure/vacuum* signal for your boost/pressure sensor from one of the three pipes that feed the acv, then you are making a LARGE MISTAKE. Of those three pipes(talking Turbo ACV here) only one ever has a vacuum. That one is the one that comes from the SWITCHING (GREY) solenoid. That pipe has a vacuum at idle. But when the car is truckin down the road, the ECU closes the SWITCHING solenoid, cutting off the vacuum. Not only that, it NEVER sees boost pressure, never, ever, ever. Nadda. None. Therefore the boost/pressure sensor will never, ever, ever, ever(well, maybe at idle) work in its role as a boost sensor for the ECU . I seriously suggest you not use any of those three pipes for the boost/pressure sensor. On a turbo acv *see attached jpg*, the YELLOW nipple receives pressure from the air pump, travels to the relief solenoid and comes back to the BLUE nipple to activate a diaphram. In the jpg, the RED nipple receives a vacuum from the switching solenoid at idle and when you let off the throttle. At other times there is no vacuum. In the jpg, the WHITE nipple goes straight thru the acv to the intake manifold and sees both vacuum and boost pressures. Bottom line is, if you are feeding the boost/pressure sensor from one of the three pipes that feed the acv, you are making a LARGE MISTAKE. And its no wonder you don't see boost on you factory gauge. It ain't there to be seen. Only the vacuum at idle. JPG ATTACHED OF THE ACV FOR A TURBO (n/a's work different) EDIT: FOR CLARITY, THE THREE PIPES THAT FEED THE ACV ARE NOT SHOWN IN THE JPG OF THE ACV.

 

me , I think you need to re read

it was Kanaida taking it off the ACV. I told him not too.
mines on the once capped nipple under the BAC. 3 ACV ones capped.


edit: or did you mean "go back and re-read scott's post" LOL...

 

I meant you really need to go back and re-read Scott's post. Not that Scott was in err. I see now where that was misleading. I definetly meant "go back and re-read scott's post"

 

Honestly, It would be much better if you had a picture of the engine bay without the ACV, and then showing me what goes where, because showing me the ACV itself, I don't know where those nipples went to on the engine nipples. So if you have any way of showing me that, that would be great and a GIGANTIC help. Thank you. By the way.. I don't even have my acv anymore.. so I can't hold it up and compare... sorry.

-Kanaida

 

Directly above where your acv was, is your BAC. Its held on with two nuts. Just two inches aft of the bottom nut that holds the BAC on, there is a nipple. Now that nipple may already be in use, going to a Air Bypass VAlve that is mounted on your intake duct. You can buy a plastic tee from the auto store and a small piece of vac hose and tee your boost/pressure sensor into it. The stock boost gauge should work after doing that. Also your boost/pressure sensor should work after doing that, which is the really important thing.

 

 

Here’s a pic of mine, it’s a little clearer than Scott’s! It shows the ACV and split pipe block-off plates (made by me from 3mm aluminium), the three capped steel vac lines and the pressure sensor vac line that’s been teed into the BOV vac line.

 

Scott89T2- What do/did you sacrifice by ditching all those parts off your lower manifold? I want to simplify my motor but dont know what the "dealio" is. Why should/shouldnt I do the same thing?

 

Also what do you do with that wire off the harness that goes into the top of that metal clusterfuck? thanx in advance for the reply.

 

I did NOT connect that vaccum line to the pressure sensor, I connected it to the nipple on the side of the UIM where is is meant to go.

I forget what we did with that 3rd line, but I did advise that you have them capped, and either buy another block off plate or buy some thicker metal and I can make you one.

As for your idle, I said you probably need to adjust your TPS, because as far as I could see you have NO vaccum leaks at all.

 

BTW, Next time you come over, have enough silicon vaccum line to replace all the vaccum hoses. I especially do not trust the stock hoses to the wastegate actuator. We can pull off your UIM and port your wastegate.

You planning on buying Joe's AFC? You call those places I told you about for the injectors?

Let me know. Your car is on it's way to happiness

 

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