AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

Look at the pictures...its at the back of the engine. Right now its plugged...(last owner) and I want to get it to the proper location. Where Does It go
any info helps

<a href="http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f146/phil_the_pimp69/?action=view&current=100_0215.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f146/phil_the_pimp69/100_0215.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f146/phil_the_pimp69/?action=view&current=100_0217.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f146/phil_the_pimp69/100_0217.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f146/phil_the_pimp69/?action=view&current=100_0218.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f146/phil_the_pimp69/100_0218.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

aux ports.

if you don't have your aux tied open, you probably noticed a lack of power up top.

I would suggest getting it hooked back up. Needs to go to an RPM triggered air pump, or the stock air pump with a switched solenoid.

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Yea, from the pics, it doesn't look like your aux are opened. Which means, after 3800, you are looking at a power drop. Big time. My vacuum line had a crack in it, and it was a huge drop in power.

So, check out the FSM and see where it needs to be hooked up.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

Yeah and as you can see the split air valve is plugged and that is going to be not too long lol. But where exactly would this be going. and how can you tell my aux ports are not open?????

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

So many people remove their cat/split air pipe with no clue that it activates the aux ports on S4s.

I also recommend the RPM switch, solenoid, air pump fix. It works perfectly on my car, and it's cheap too. ~$50 will do it.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

You can leave the large hose that would connect to the split air pipe disconnected, but I would remove the plug. Below 3500 rpm, the air pump will be pumping air into the ACV/LIM, and it will have nowhere to go. The pressure buildup could potentially damage the pump. Unplugging that hose gives it a vent.

The aux port actuators are located on opposite ends of the LIM. You can tell they are not wired open since the plungers are in the "up" position. Press them in with your finger to see how the move when 2PSI is applied.

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

If you look at the FSM. You will know what the aux ports look like. I can tell in the picture that they are closed. You must feel almost no power above 3800. If you wire them open, you will notice a huge difference up top. But, you will kill pre 3800 power.

You really need to look through the FSM. I would go with an air pump and rpm switch.

Do a search. Tons of articles on it.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

the street port gives me the power but there is a sligth power loss after 3800. (not too much) but I really want to get this issue handled...Ill search for the rpm switch

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

i found that i might be able to find a rpm switch at summit racing. But I have no idea how i would wire it in.

could someone help me and find a link to the page with the most info/how to wire it in...

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

Once you get them to open, you will notice a surge in power.

Unless, you pulled the sleeves out when you put it back together. But, I don't see why you would keep all the other stuff attatched if you already removed the sleeves.

Try using a zip tie and zippin' those rods that come out of the cylinder things down. Down is open. Up is closed. Then, take it out for a drive. It will pull better up top. If you swapped an S5 intake in, you would notice another jump in power at 6k.

HAILERS

What's that white wire??? with the blue ends doing in life??? What is that going to?? Or is it not a wire and something else? Just curious.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

looks like the 02 sensor wire got fixed? angle in the pic is a little weird to see it

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

I use the summit RPM switch right now. Cheap, and very effective.

I also use a Ford F-150 Lumbar pump for port opening. Found on ebay for like $15.

The summit RPM switch has a manual on the summit site. It tells what wire goes where.

Basically, you hook a switched 12V to the box. Something that gets 12V when key is ON. Then, you ground it. Get a tach signal to the white wire. Then personally, I take a relay, and use the switch to switch a relay that activates the pump. I don't remember if it is the yellow or the grey that gets grounded at specified RPM, but you hook that to the ground on the relay. Then, have the pump hook to the relay.

Then, when you hit the RPM you specified, it will flip the relay, and turn the pump on. This will push air into that little pipe.

You should be able to take a long vacuum line, attached it where that tube is now, and then blow into it. You should see those cylinders pull down, and open the ports.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

HAHA its for my A/F gauge lol. the blue is shrink wrap to cover the exposed wires. It wouldnt work very well off the ECU so i spliced into the 02 sensor wire.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

^and thanks. I googled it and found a great site on how to do this. Ill zip tie them and post results tonight...lol (OH GOD) lol

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

the rod the mechanism that opens the aux ports wont even move. I tried pressing down and it wont go anywhere...

HAILERS

Remove the actuator by undoing the two nuts that hold it on plus the circlip that attaches the actuaor rod to the sleeve rod. Buy new gaskets for the actuator prior to doing that.

Hold the actuator in your hands. Push the shaft/rod inwards with your hands. IF it won't even budge, then find a block of wood. Rap the shaft/rod of the actuator against the wood to free it up til it will move all the way in and out.

If the actuator shaft/rod moves freely (spring pressure inside the actuator gives some resistance) then it's the sleeve inside the manifold that is frozen. That's another story. No since saying how to free it up since you don't know right now which item is frozen up.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

i have tomorow off so i will go and try to fix it. im also searching threads seeing what fixed other ppl's

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

Well started off thinking the whole system was broken. I shot a small amount of compressed air into the hose the the front actuator moved. So i took the retaining clip and little bolt thing off and started dripping lubricants and what not to try to get it to move. With it disassebled I blew air into it and bam went down fine front and back....but when the connecting rod is in place nothing!

So this has made me think that the ports in the back are stuck...i want to fix this but this is my DD and i dont want to disasseble the whole engine. What shallI do???
<a href="http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f146/phil_the_pimp69/?action=view&current=100_0221.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f146/phil_the_pimp69/100_0221.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

I know it is supposed to move more then that. It seems maybe your sleeves are stuck.

That is a pretty tough process, but you need to take the UIM and IIM off then LIM. Clean the sleeves up, and where they go in, and then make sure there is no lube or anything in either spot, and put them back in.

It will take a day of working to get it all done. But, if you have two days off in a row, and can dedicated a whole day to taking it all apart.

If there are any experience RX people in your area they could help. Make sure you have new gaskets for your manifolds. Probably a good time to replace them anyways.

Very much killing your top end. I am sure you will notice a big difference once you either get them freed or pull them out. But, I would leave them in and make them work correctly. Therefore you get torque + HP.

I don't know if I still have pictures of when I redid everything, but I will try and take some pictures of what it should look like when it is fully down.

89GXLer

For the screw that you can't get to turn, take a center punch and tap it with a hammer in one spot along the edge of the head in the counter-clockwise direction.

After stripping the heads a little bit, it was how I got both of mine to move.

I had to tap one of my shafts (rear I think) back through using a large punch as it wouldn't budge but I already had the intake off the engine since I was doing a rebuild.

I ended up breaking the shaft in the end (trying to get it to free up) and had to replace it but while I had both out, I cleaned the insides with parts cleaner and a pipe cleaner and I had to clean the back one with a round rasp (there's a brass insert in there) to free it up better

I also cleaned the actual sleeves, cleaned the port holes within the irons, added inserts from Pineapple Racing in the sleeves, coated everything with a bit of oil, and replaced the little rubber washers on the shafts.



Grant

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

believe it or not driving home yesterday with it stuck at that angle It gave me a little bit more top end...and i was like WTF!!! So today im going to go get an air pump and get the front port moving for about a week then next time i have two days off ill disassemble everything and do it. I do have a friend who know a lot about them so ill pm him lol.

I wont screw up anything running my aux ports in the front and that slight bit in the back right???

Rx7TyreBurna

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't do that. When the ports are open you are changing things. you could throw off the balance...... maybe? Maybe one of the pros will chime in. But, I highly suggest against it, Just wait until you can get it done right. No rush being a bit quicker, if it means you could break something. Just wait til it can be done correctly.

You will love the difference.

Rx-7fetish

it wont hurt anything to have one a little open while you wait for the time to do it. Just dont be lazy and not do it.

AreExSevenProject

iTrader: (1)

haha okay so i hooked up a ghetto pump to trigger the ports just for a test drive. With just one port actually working it produced a lot more horse at top end.

Should i do the air pump thing with the rpm switch or is there some way I could do this differently...