jono20

I know my front wheels bearings are worn (ive got a few mm of play on the front wheels when they are wiggled).

I recently learned that you could retorque our front wheels bearings... good thing to know! 5 years ago wouldve been super too :P

anyways. fsm says top torque to about 20 ft-lbs. I have them torqued to 16 ft-lbs right now. I was wondering if I torqued it further, would it help with the high speed wobble I still have in the wheel? or am I too far in to do anything to help until I get new bearings installed?

tinvestor

torque it to spec. I had a hell of a time finding outers and forget about replacing the races you are best off bringing the outers in and having them match the numbers. just be sure you dont take it too far and seize them but I think factory torque spec cant hurt.

jono20

do you need to remove those two screws on the disc to get at the inner bearing? or does it just involve removing the caliper? cant for the life of me get those screws out :P

Mechanic

those 2 screws has a couple of ways to come out ( i assume you are talking about the rotor assembly holding screw...) you can use an impact screw driver, or if you have air compressor and a air impact hammer, use a pointed tip and hit it in an angle until it spins a 1/4 of a turn then use regular screw driver.

or you can.... try really really really hard, and no i do not know if you can get to it with or without removing the rotor.

my front hub got play now too... its minute right now but ehh... idk what to do with it lolgot any pics of where the nut or whatever it is for torquing?

tinvestor

I usually heat them up a little and use a craftsman phillips and hit it with a hammer a few times to set the screw driver (usually there is rust or road grime in there) and it helps loosen the screw a little to. This is incase you dont have a compressor and impact. You do not NEED to remove them just pull the center nut and pull it off rotor and all. Best to remove those screws AFTER you take the hub off this will allow you to put more downward pressure on the scredriver or impact which is easier than sideways (on the car) If you do not remove these screws now you will have problems when it comes time to do breaks later. Always use a little dab of antiseize on these screws and best to buy new ones now.

iceblue

Man them things have broke several of my impact screws.

You need to pull the hub assembly apart and notch the race with a dermal. Then beat the race out. Now press the new races into place and pack the bearings before assembling them into place.

You know if the bearing gives the wheel falls off right?

jono20

I know. thats why im gettin to it :P

I torqued them both to 19 or 20 ft lbs last night. eliminated all the play and they are shaking much much less now. I took out the smaller bearing last night and looked at the race and it seemed to be in pretty good shape... though I dont know how to tell its in bad shape.

is it the larger or the smaller race that needs to be notched to replace?

Syonyk

Here's some info on torquing the wheel bearings:

http://www.fc3s.org/how_tos/maintena...nspection.html

Here's some info on replacing the front bearings:

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/frontbrg.htm

-=Russ=-

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

If the races are screwed where do you get new ones from? Mazdatrix only has the bearings available and I haven't found the races anywhere.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Just wanted to jump in with some "screw info" ..I tried to get them off and Stripped the screw's X pattern(phillip's)..so I Drilled the screws out..I did this on the Back Brakes...When taking a look at the hub,it has "extra threaded holes"..so if it happens that you Wreck the Screws you could always get another 2 ,and use those "extra holes"....Sorry,I don't have any info for the Front hubs,and whether they have the "extra Holes"on the hubs..

iceblue

IIRC last time I tried the rotor only lined up to 2 of them.

After you drill the head of there should be no more tension on the bolt and a pic or extractor should get the remainder out.

jono20

do you really even need the screws?

mine were in too good for my impact driver to get em out, so I just dilled out the heads. on every other car ive owned you rotor just floats in between the hub and wheel. dont see why we need the screws in out 7s

eyeoutthere

The Mazdatrix bearings should come with races... as should just about any set of bearings you buy. I got Timken bearings from Autozone and they came with races.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Sweet. How much did they run from Autozone? I might try and pick a set up today or at least order them.

eyeoutthere

I can't remember. They were not expensive:
http://www.autozone.com/

teknics

iTrader: (4)

you dont need the screws in the rotor. they're put there when assembling the car cause as it goes down the line you cant have the rotors falling off.

kevin.