2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Wheel Bearing Install

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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 08:13 PM
  #1  
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From: The Cliff
Wheel Bearing Install

Hey guys,

I just got finished reading pages in the search feature dealing with intalling wheel bearings...I was hoping I could get some feed back from some folks that have changed the wheel bearings using the method described on Mazdatrix's website. how difficult is it and what kinda time frame would I need to do it. and what tools are absoultely needed........Thanks a whole bunch...

Nick
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 10:34 PM
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SaabGuy's Avatar
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From: Atlanta, GA
Dremel tool is probably the best to use for this. Or some sort of small grinder.

Its not very difficult. I did 1 hub an hour or so. I could do it faster now. Just make sure you clean the shafings out.

Also after I did my wheel bearings I still got a knocking noise in the front end. Try grabbing hold of the middle ofyour strut and give that a whaling. I think my struts are bad cause they feel loose. Also check ball joints.

You can also tighten your wheen bearings and see if it gets any better. if you are not sure, tighten the **** out ofyour bearings - like 20 foot lbs. This will lock the front wheel (DONT DRIVE!!!). Now put the tire back on and give it a hard shake. still feel the loosness?? its not your wheel bearings giving the problem.
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 11:28 PM
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crossbar17's Avatar
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From: Wales, ME
pretty easy i changed my ball joints, tierods, wheel bearing, fron and rear shocks and springs, front and rear brake(pads/rotors) took all of 2 days total, probably 1.5 hours for the ball joints

CB
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Old Apr 16, 2002 | 11:51 PM
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From: The Cliff
So you have to grind thought the race and the hub it self or what? kinda new to this that is good to hear that it only took like an hour per hub thanks for the imput and I hope more people respond.

Nick
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Old Apr 17, 2002 | 11:07 AM
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From: Marion, AR 72364
The idea is to grind the aluminum of the hub away in two or three places, just enough to allow you to strike the bearing race with a punch to drive it out.

Most wheel hubs are machined so that the bearing race is visible from the back end. Mazda did not do this. The aluminum of the hub is the same diameter as the bearing race, revealing nothing of the race to strike with a punch. The Dremel is used to grind two or three small notches to allow access to the race. The race itself is so hard it will ruin a grinding burr unless you are using carbide.
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