Whizbang

i would kinda like to see some people back up their claims, rather than just stating "S5 TII"

My thoughts are the S4 TII. The lower compression, mechanical OMP, less electrical whatnot running on the motor (maybe irrelevant if you are using a Haltech or the like). also they are cheaper and easier to find, unlike the S5.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If you want to do 700HP reliably, use the 20B. It will do it without breaking a sweat...

Don't use RX-8 rotors. The compression is too high for large amounts of boost and they need to be machined to accept our apex seals.

On a 20B, a decent street port will support 700HP, still get good mileage and draw decent vacuum.

Keep in mind you will need a new drivetrain to support those power levels. And you'll need a good amount of rubber out back, probably meaning you'll need to go widebody to have anything close to traction.

ramses666

iTrader: (1)

Don't forget the $30,000 your gonna need to make it all work & a year or two of hassle and then you'll blow it up 'cause you did something wrong. All that will be going down the rat hole & you won't have anything left but used parts.

Ramses666

myfc3s

iTrader: (2)

Most reliable Rotary made are the 85 Gsl-se, they are 13b engines with factory 3mm seals and are 4port not 6. They show proof these engines last as much as 300k miles.

whereiscarmensandiego

yeah but a 20b is a hole nother can of worms. it costs almost as much for a blown 20b as it does to build a decent s5 motor,not to mention mounting and clerance issues i might encounter

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

That's incorrect. The GSL-SE has a 6 port 13B. All NA 13Bs since '84 have been 6 port.

It will likely cost you more to do it with a 13B since you'll blow up two engines trying to get to your goal. 700HP on a 13B is nontrivial and will take EXPERIENCE to get it right. 700HP on a 20B is easy after the initial hurdle of installing the engine.

whereiscarmensandiego

that is also true

The Shaolin

iTrader: (5)

Strongest motor, in my opinion, is the one that can handle the most abuse.

Hands down, LS1.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

2 rotor FC, 13B-RE, is the easiest, hands down, no other option, same size dowel landings as the REw, but larger intake ports, just switch the exhaust sleeves with T2 sleeves.

I hear some 20Bs have twisting problems, depending on its manufacuring date. I'd call a shop who actually builds 20B engines and tell them your goals if you want to go 20B.

There is someone building a road race 20B FC in the race car section, someone made them mounts to put the engine lower and farther back in the engine bay without firewall clearance, you still need a trans adapter bracket and a shorter driveshaft though. Otherwise putting it in just requires plumbing and a standalone, same as any other good T2 swap.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

13B TII would be easiest for 500HP, 20B would be easiest for 700HP. Will probably be $10k for the 500 and far more for the 700. Find out more through forum searches.

totallimmortal

yup hope you have like 20 grand to invest in this project to make it right and have money for stuff when it breaks. your gonna want a really good turbo for that much hp no ebay cheapo just cause its big, engine manigment and lots of dyno time. 20b will cost a lil to swap in roughly 10k by most estimates i've seen online but will deffinetly be much better if you want 700hp

TurboMazdaSpeed

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UgsKjjhib0o

dosent say how high.. but sure as hell sounds pretty high!

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

How do you figure thats better than an REW? The stationary gears and bearings are inferior, and so is the ignition pickup( CAS vs mag pickups). Sure the intake ports have better timing, and are bigger, but what does that have to do with being strong? The exhaust port sleeves are more restrictive which is more of a downfall in context to being a strong engine than having big intake ports...

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

Budgeting in my chassis restoration, replacing all of my suspension components, and building it right, i will have over 10k invested in my FC by the time I am done. I should have around 425 - 450 on pump gas. This is with me building it and putting it all together by myself outside of exhaust fabrication and paint/body repair.

i cannot imagine a 3 rotor tripling that amount, maybe double if it's a built engine, but not triple.

dean23

if you do the work yourself, the 20b route really isnt that bad. rebuild and port cost~ 4k (high side) with used engine. get it in the car and its cake from there. otherwise go with a 13brew. i wish i would have, but ill settle for what i got.

Juiceh

iTrader: (4)

No, thats not JUST balancing that is needed to handle 12-14k revving in a rotary RELIABLY. There are more supporting mods than that, but they can all be done along with the balancing such as race clearancing, lightening of the rotors, deep oil groove bearings, e-shaft oil jet mods. The internal oil mods need to be done so the engine doesn't starve for oil in those upper RPM, the reasons why clearancing and lightening should be done aught to be obvious... You can probably get away with not lightening the rotors, but if your going this extreme its almost silly to just not go all the way. Shops that can do the balancing and clearancing usually do lightening as well, so it can all be done in one shot. Then, with these high revs to deal with you would probably want to start looking into ceramic apex seals as they do seem to be less likely to chatter on the housings at high RPM and seal better. Heck, you'd probably want to go with Cermet coated housings along with those ceramic apex seals to try to get the best sealing possible. The ceramic seals and cermet housings may not be needed to achieve that RPM goal but since the rate of wear increases exponentially once you exceed 9krpm with stock housings & seals then the ceramics will greatly extend the longevity of the engine due to the extremely low wear rate especially when combined with cermet housings.

Unfortunatley, those won't protect you at all since the flywheel bits will be coming from a direction where that armor offers no protection.



Strongest 2-rotor engine I'd have to say would be the 13B-REW, with the RE right behind it.

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

There is a book out there that says what is needed for a P-port engine.

Most people use the carbon apex seals for p-ports btw.

Terrh

iTrader: (7)

Wanna spin past 9k, or dump your clutch lots?

GET A FLYWHEEL BLANKET!