Hey guys. My primary concern is that I cant figure out what the heck is the sound my engine is making. While making the post, i decided to write a few more questions and see if you can maybe tackle those as well.

Here is what I have:
non turbo to turbo s5 swap.
jdm turbo s5 engine. compression checked.
n/a wire harnes (s5)
n370 ecu, afm, boost sensor
new spark plug wires
somewhat new spark plugs (3rd set)
Racing beat 2.5" turbo back exhaust
air pump removed
egr blocked off
s5 n/a fuel pump


My car was extremely hard to start and it flooded a lot. I assumed this is because of leaky injectors (cause spark issues have been checked many times in the process, including a purchase of new plugs, wires, CAS restab/check and so on)... so anyway I made a fuel cut off switch to the fuel pump relay and I can somewhat start the car now. this is the only good news so far.

Question1.
Now, in order to start the car i have to floor it around 50% meaning i need to let some air into the engine, i assume this is because my air pump is removed? the engine came from Japan with egr blocked off already, so i dont know...

Question 2.
Once i start the engine, while cranking, my tachometer needle is bouncing, once the engine starts and needle goes above 500 rpm, it stops working, so i cant freaking see what rpm i am working with.... the engine seems to idle on its own around 1200rpm (i would guess from the sound).... without any idle hunt or anything like that. Bad trailing coil? Shitty spark plugs?

Question 3.
Below is a video I uploaded where I start the car, hold the throttle for a bit, then slowly let go and at the end of the video, engine starts to idle on its own.

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/6QbtCW5P7qA&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/6QbtCW5P7qA&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Now about 1 minute of idling like that and the engine starts to make this weird sound (video below) like its misfiring or detonating, or i dont know what the hell?

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/MOky3epH690&hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/MOky3epH690&hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Any ideas?

If someone can at least point me into a right direction, i would appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

this sound happens every time, all the time, from approximately 10 to 60 seconds of idle depending on how hot the engine is. hot engine = 10 seconds and it starts bsin.

Also in case you wondering, my down pipe is not hooked up to precilenser, thats where the exhaust leak is from.....

And

1. My o2 sensor isn't hooked up
2. Main ground might be bad
3. no knock sensor

thats all i can remember so far..........

 

1: read up about flooding, nothing to do with the air pump.

Also mate I recon its your plugs... sounds like its running on 1 rotor.
Pull em out and have a look. will be fairly obvious straight up.

 

went through 3 sets of ngk spark plugs, pulled them out and dried them out with air compressor, just before installing the fuel cut switch yesterday.

Before i got my n370 ecu, i ran on n374 and i definitely know that i now run on both rotors, 100% positive

dont want to buy new plugs again

maybe my coil is fked up?

 

About 4yrs ago, my motor is doing the same thing. Hard to start and needed the help of fuelcut switch. It was a because of low compression. Check the compression for your motor again.

What ecu are you running?? is it tuneable?? may be it needed a re-tune.

 

The starting problem sounds just like mine a little bit ago when my car would flood when sitting. The compression would drop to nothing when flooded and made it near impossible to start.

I am going to rig a cut switch but i have just been unplugging the fuel pump and now the hard starting problems are gon, it starts right up.

Now the idle i don't have a clue, though i would get the O2 sensor hooked up. I could see that making the mixture be way off.

 

That my friend sounds BLOWN!

 

are you SURE that your plugs wires are correct?

 

to me it sounds like its running on one rotor. plus it took a while to start so that reafirms my beleifs even more. I know the flooding also causes this. you say you are having problems wit the tach. that leads you to the rear coils. that is where the tach gets the signal. make sure the rear coils are doing their work. another question I have is whyy are you running an N/A pump with a turbo engine you might also not have enough fuel to run the engine.

 

Yeah I agree with polito. Sounds like its running in one rotor. My friends cory's TII was doing that when we got it about 4 months ago.

 

i say u kick it. plain and simple. jk

 

L1 goes to bottom front(radiator side)
L2 goes to bottom rear(gas tank side)
T1 goes to top front
T2 goes to top rear

correct?


the flooding causes to run on one rotor?

I checked the trailing coil couple months back and both spark plugs connected to it were firing, so i assumed the trailing coil is fine.

I run with n/a pump because i haven't bought, or don't have any more money to buy anything better yet.

ecu is stock n370 so its not tunable, no


I guess i will have to check my compression and see wtf is going on. So you guys are saying one of the rotors lost compression by the sound of it?

 

You said tach was jumpy right. Mine kinda did this and I adjusted the TPS

 

may want to examine your throttle body. Engine sounds blown to me

 

yes that's correct.

 

Blown didy doo daa...
Blown didy aaay
Your turbo engine
is blown today
time for some pistons
that's what I say
'cause having blown rotors
is totally gay!

 

front rotor 105psi, rear rotor 85psi.
leading coilpack 0.6 ohm resistance
trailing coilpack 0.9 ohm resistance on both

still blown?

 

20 PSI variance is quite a bit. I'd be looking into a rebuild.

 

it's probably the lack of radiator shroud that's causing you to overheat and the engine to miss

 

No.


Check your TPS with a meter and adjust it within spec as per the FSM.

 

Absolutely doubt it. In fact, I'm driving a RX-7 right now without the shroud and even sitting at idle it doesn't overheat.

 

i read in the Haynes manual, 20psi difference is normal as well as rotaryressurection website

 

could it be something with my fuel?

 

That is not normal dude, go back and re-read what Kevin says.

"Note difference in overall compression between rotors, which should be no more than 20psi max."

Notice is says MAX? That's the absolute highest you can go before it's still going to somewhat function. This would indicate a serious problem. Like I said before, I recommend a rebuild.

 

Did you plug everything in correctly?
Check.Check.Check.
Everything.Everything.Everything.