JFR

88 TII. 112,000 miles, rebuilt engine at 100,000(supposedly). Oil leak from rear main seal, going to be replaced very soon.

Recently my car has been making this really wierd noise when you press on the throttle just a little. I think it may have to do with the turbo or something because when you're listening to your car you can hear the turbo spool up. I can hear this but along with the spooling, I hear this flapping type noise. It's hard to describe but it's like a when you blow out of your mouth and your tongue is vibrating in between your lips. haha that was a stupid analagy but hopefully you get my point. When I press on the throttle I get a strange noise, which isn't normal.

That's just something I have noticed recently. I don't think it relates to this...

Then yesterday, my car was running fine. I go to a friends house. Then I leave and start my car up. (My car floods every now and then, but I think it's my injectors as my compression is good(last time I checked).) It takes me a while to get it started. Finally I get it. Start driving and... whoa... something is fucked up. To start I have to rev it to like 3-4 thousand to actually accelerate normally. It takes forever to get the rpms up, especially on load. So then I'm driving and I give it some gas to see if its just being grumpy. More gas, no acceleration. More gas, very little accerelration. I'm to the point where there is enough gas to get moving, but I'm not. Come to a stop sign. Turn music off to listen. I hear this terrible sound. At first I'm like... okay I know my exhaust is bad, maybe its peacing out and is about to fall off so thats why it sounds retarded. It sounds very, very bad, this noise does. mmmm No. That's not it. So the only thing I can think of is that it's running on one rotor. And it feels like it is too. I've never known what it's like to run on one rotor, but I think this is it.

So... I think of my problem, call a friend about it. I could be running on one rotor because of a failing seal, failing leading coil, maybe bad spark plugs? So then I was like, well I can answer my question by checking the compression. If it's good, it might be the ignition coil or something. That was yesterday and I didn't have time to do that.

So today I planned on checking the compression. Come home from school, go to my car to start it up, starts up on the second try and holds idle(normally that's what it takes because it take a few tries to start it and let it hold idle. It doesn't do the accelerated warm-up process). It sounds normal too. So I start to drive to see how bad it is still. !!!!!! Now it's running fine! WTF?

Okay, now I'm confused. Pretty much all I know is that something is failing or something that is why i ran into trouble yesterday. Flooding really bad? maybe. Bad seal? maybe. Could it have anything to do with my bad oil leak? It's so strange though because now it's runs like it did before. Can it go from running on one rotor back to two again? Might be the leading coil. ****, I don't know. I'll test that if compression is good.... but compression has to be fine if my car is operating normally now.... maybe... heh.

I just wanted to ask you guys before I start doing all this stuff, just to see if I'm missing something. I apologize for the lengthy post, I just thought I would give a little more detail.

Dr4900n

Brap Brap Brap?

Ruffryder_29

I would really check your coils. and the wires that are attached to them. it almost sounds like a short somewhere or a voltage problem. I had the same problem about 2 years back and my leading coil wires were touching the chasis bare. The plastic got so worn from the heat and age, it just fell off...so i bout new coils and had the wires replaced. it ran fine after that.

rx302

Mine just did that same thing recently. I replaced the plugs and then it ran like crap...ran fine for a while ..then ran like crap again! Turns out when I replaced the plugs I swapped the trailing plug wires. Just something to check.

rx302

Mine just did that same thing recently. I replaced the plugs and then it ran like crap...ran fine for a while ..then ran like crap again! Turns out when I replaced the plugs I swapped the trailing plug wires. Just something to check.

JFR

Uhh no, thats like the sound of a backfiring exhaust, mine doesn't do that. Hmmm it's hard to describe! It just sounds odd. Like something is in front of the turbo or something so it's making that noise. Like a leaf or something lol. Yeah right, that's not it.


I really do hope its the leading coil because that costs so much less to replace and less time than tearing the engine apart and all that stuff. That's waht I'll do next, is check the coils and spark plugs. Is there anything else that could cause this problem?

JFR

Is it possible to switch my leading ignition coil from my 88 NA to my 88 TII? They are the same aren't they?

lov-2-rev

iTrader: (87)

Check connections on the maf. One side of my maf plug was slightly loose causing an intermitant connection. Car would run great sometimes, then like crap other times. Drove me crazy for two weeks.

The fast

check the air flow meter, the swing arm in the top may have gone past its intended position and broken off, you have to remove the piece of black plastic to see if this is the case.

when it is broke, the computer dont know how much air is let in so it gives you only enough to limp around,

I had this happen to me and the way you describe power dilivery is spot on

JFR

Okay I'll be sure to check MAF and AFM out too.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Yep, switch away.

And the AFM and MAF are the same thing

JFR

Doh! I knew that! haha damn

JFR

Okay, well I just swapped the leading coil and ignitor so its not that. Im going to go check the AFM now. Damn.

JFR

Alright, I disconnected my AFM but I don't know what the swing arm is you're talking about. Is it that metal flap/trap door?

JFR

Hmmm so if the AFM is bad itself, I don't know if it really can be, but if it is, I think I'm going to switch the one from my NA to my TII. Boy, I love parts car But really though, could the AFM itself be bad or is it more likely that the connection/wires are faulty. I don't have a ohm or multimeter to do all this type of testing myself. So I mean having an extra car lying around is good in that I can just switch. Bad in that if the AFM is fine and that's not the problem. I don't really know, it's kind of like trial and error.

Previously I said my car has started to make this wierd noise when given gas, like when more air is being sucked in. I wonder if that has anything to do with intake, AFM, filter or TID? Maybe the turbo is is going bad. It seems to be fine, though, boost is still good.

Well, I'll just go ahead and swap that AFM for now, make sure all the connections are good and stuff. See how she runs. Then I'll get back with some results. I know it will still probably run shitty. Well, I'll never know if I don't try!

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Ok, you NEED to own a DMM. My suggestion... go buy one and test the AFM yourself.

JFR

Uhhh okay... damn. Someone answer me this... you can't reach full boost on one rotor can you? Because I'm still running on one rotor and it's so hard for it to make boost past the +0 mark. I thought maybe my turbo is fried because of that, but then I thought I probably can't make full boost on one rotor. So it's probably not firing because there is so much smoke when it was idling and I reved it several times to and the smoke was very potent of gas, so that tells me it's not firing. I think I need to test the spark.

JFR

Thanks, DUDE. I am pretty positive that's not the problem at this point. But you can never be too sure. Hmm so they're what? like 30 bucks?

Damn maybe I do need one of those multimeters. Check the spark and see if that's good or not. If it is, then I'll test the AFM. But I think it's not firing and fuel is still being injected and not being used so that's why it's hard to start with this problem and flooding. That seems pretty logical if you ask me.

Alright, tomorrow I'm going to go ride my bike to Lowes... hahaha just kidding.


BTW, sorry for posting so much, this problem is just really annoying. Thanks everyone so far.

JFR

Oops, sorry My5ABaby, you replied as I was typing that one post and I didn't mean to respond like that! But yeah multimeter here I come.

JFR

Okay, I checked my compression to see if the problem deals within the engine. I also tested the spark as well. New spark plugs and replaced my front coil. That didn't help. The results; Front rotor: 100, Rear rotor: 90-95. So the compression seems to be fine. I knew once I got my car the injectors were not funtioning properly. My car floods frequently(whose seven doesn't?) and takes a few tries to start it up sometimes. I think the problem lies within the injectors. When it runs on one rotor, fuel is still being injected to the non running rotor and maybe it isn't all getting bruned because too much fuel is being injected. That could be why it is very very hard to start after shuting it down after being run while on one rotor. I'm not quite sure if the injectors are truly the problem.

So, I know what I have to do to get to the injectors and clean them up a bit. How long does it take to remove them? I have never removed them before. And when I do take them out, I plan on sending them off to Witchhunter. Is that the next step I should take? What else could it be? I've replaced the AFM too. Can injectors really cause my car to act like this? What's weird is that I'll go outside, start my car for the first time that day. Warm it up, then go drive. Come back home and turn it off. Start it back up, having trouble sometimes, and it's running on one rotor.

I have two jobs and go to school, and all the time away from not being able to drive makes everything so much more difficult.

Please let me know anything you may know and I don't. Thanks for reading.

Icemark

The compression should be three numbers per rotor (one per rotor face)

So it should look like: 100/100/100 and 90/95/90 or something like that.

so what is the real compression???

and leaking injectors and poor compression are the reasons for flooding most of the time.

and why do you think you are running on one rotor???? It is a pretty radical power loss if you are

slpin

iTrader: (9)

maybe some hoses are popping off or going in?
if it aint some of your electricals are turning to **** and being hyphy so they get it down sometimes or just get it off others
if youhave to rev it to 3-4 k to get it to move it sounds liek it is the afm, maybe it got wet or osmet ****, go ohose ur **** down oine at a time and see what affects what and replace that, cause that ***** suppose ot have insulation to keep **** like taht from happening.

JFR

Well, I tested my compression before, and it was the same as it is now. That was in the summer. When I held the valve in, it came up front 35, 35, 35 and rear 30, 30, 30. But if that is really the compression, how was it able to run fine sooo long and have no trouble driving, like performance wise. I don't understand if that were to be the real compression, how could they(both rotors) be so close in compression numbers as each other. Maybe I'm just retarded, but id so, how was I able to drive my car with compression so low for nearly 6 months? As far as how I know I'm running on one rotor... the sound my car makes is just terrible. The engine shakes relly badly as if it's off balance. It has never shaken like that before. And at idle, it sounds as if the timing is off. And when I drive it, it takes extremely long to reach an adaquate speed. Once I get to about 5000 rpm or so, it finally drives normal. I don't know if that means anything or not.

So if I have done the compression correctly, would the accumulative for each rotor be about 300 psi then, because when I don't touch the valve and let the engine turn for about 5-10 seconds, the accumulative compression on each rotor is, well, 100 front and 90-95 rear. That is why I'm confused.

Icemark

When holding the valve in you got 30/30/30 you don't have a blown rotor.

Is the exhaust pig rich???

JFR

Okay good, I was a bit worried. But does that still mean the compression is way low? What do you mena pig rich? Like with carbon? I only have about 60% of my exhaust because the left muffler started to fall off due to rust, so I removed it. But how can you tell if it's rich(with carbon?) without taking it off? Not like it's a big deal to remove it.