Photonic

For "Grip". All you Road Racers and Auto-x enthusiasts, what in your experience has kept the FC Neutral and balanced as far as shocks and spring rates.

I never thought id be asking such a general question lol. I knew what "worked" well for S13's but where as Megan Streets may be GREAT for an S13..the ones for the FC may be horrible...Sort of like how K-sports seem to suit hondas very well...and suck for S13's.

I was considering Koni Yellows (Cant go wrong there..) But what about spring rates (Linear springs plz)

http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/konifc.htm

These Yellows come with adjustable spring seats and for my needs (Not slammed) A simple lowered spring of the proper rate combined with the adjustability of the spring seat should be quite adequate. And some camber plates of course.

Im a believer that Springs should be chosen to match the shocks characteristics...I don't have a shock dyno so blah. If anyone can suggest a good spring rate to use with those struts..or suggest a tried and true coilover setup Im willing to listen.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

koni yellow

springs are usually 350/250 or 450/250

350/250 is totally streetable

eibach/afco/hypercoil

Photonic

I used to drive S13's..the curb weight only 100 or so pounds more than the FC..But with a weight balance more towards the front because of its heavy Iron block engine.

The COMMON preference for S13's is 8kg front 6kg rear. Which is about....447lb/in front 335 rear

And that is considered streetable.

Id rather go with the 450 front spring rate...but whats the reason behing the rear spring rate staying the same?

Wont increasing the front springs alone another 100lbs provoke more understeer? Or are these cars just naturally tail happy and need the balance of stiffer front springs?

If you are suggesting 8kg front springs then perhaps the s13 and RX7 are more similar in balance than I thought.

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

I have the RB springs all the way around with KYB AGX also all the way around. This is totally streetable and with the ability to alter the stiffness it is nice. I also live in Michigan where are roads are like are schools. CRAP.

Korsch_RS

MI roads suck, especially in the U.P.

As far as spring rates go, the lever arm on the back makes the spring act stiffer than it really is. The spring has a little longer lever arm then the wheel does, making it necessary to use a softer spring then usual in the rear to keep the ride frequencies front to back in better balance.

Also, the front suspension has terrible geometry when lowered, so stiffening it up significantly actually improves front end grip by reducing roll induced camber loss. Kinda counter-intuitive. Subaru's do the same exact thing. The super stiff front end thing only works well on smooth roads though.

If you have nasty roads like me, I would stick to under 250 lbs/in in the front, and around 180 - 200 in the back.

Photonic

What are the stock rates out of curiosity.

I may go with the 350/250. And perhaps some roll bars..as im sure 350/250 springs wont keep it very flat and I dont feel like running excessive camber all the time

Black91n/a

For my car I'm using Tein Flex with 7/5 springs a Racing Beat front bar and a stock rear bar and with reasonable alignment numbers I get good, consistent tire temps at the track running the same size front and back. The car doesn't lean much at all and it really handles very nicely, giving slight understeer transitionning to oversteer when I get the corner just right. I'd reccomend it for a dual duty car, but it's a bit stiff for daily driving.

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

I'm with black91n/a. My car exibits similar behavior.

I run BC coilovers with 8k/6k and RB bars front and rear. It handles very well, but I still have a bit of on power understeer on corner exit.

Street driving is liveable but very firm.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

stock is 1.9 all the way around BUT, free length is 11" and compressed at stock ride height they are 8" or so.

350/250 is with a 6 or 7" spring and coil overs.

if you do the math you see that the first inch for both setups is almost the same, but since the the factory spring is compressed it has a different curve than the 350/250 setup.

and this is another reason to do something simple like the koni/eibach setup, as springs are cheap and available