what are some *free* mods?
12-04-06, 08:34 PM
#26
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by pimpdaddy7835
and I've got aftermarket exhaust
an alright glass pack with the stock mufflers
this hick told me to stick a water hose in the muffler and make the glass in the
glasspack shatter so my car sounds loud....
good... bad.. what??
an alright glass pack with the stock mufflers
this hick told me to stick a water hose in the muffler and make the glass in the
glasspack shatter so my car sounds loud....
good... bad.. what??
Glasspacks typically last only weeks on a non turbo rotary, and sometimes just hours depending on the quality and materials. They just can not stand up to the heat.
12-04-06, 11:37 PM
#27
Rotor7ven
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: kissimmee, fl
Posts: 338
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by trueimport
You can make one less trip each week to the all night burrito place that should cut off a few pounds and that’s FREE J/K
If you have some ATF you could do an ATF flush to loosen up those apex seals. That would help restore some compression and help the longevity. I see that in your sig you have a rebuild but the ATF flush is always a good thing!
If you have some ATF you could do an ATF flush to loosen up those apex seals. That would help restore some compression and help the longevity. I see that in your sig you have a rebuild but the ATF flush is always a good thing!
whats ATF?
12-05-06, 12:29 AM
#28
Lives on the Forum
Here's a couple of my favorite cheap/free mods.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/how-de-power-your-steering-rack-right-way-440198/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-build-lower-arm-bar-under-%2415-448638/
I built a brake MC brace with the lefotver material from the lower arm bar.
Other than that, there's lightening like people have mentionned.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/how-de-power-your-steering-rack-right-way-440198/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-build-lower-arm-bar-under-%2415-448638/
I built a brake MC brace with the lefotver material from the lower arm bar.
Other than that, there's lightening like people have mentionned.
12-05-06, 12:37 AM
#29
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by trueimport
If you have some ATF you could do an ATF flush to loosen up those apex seals. That would help restore some compression and help the longevity. I see that in your sig you have a rebuild but the ATF flush is always a good thing!
The ATF treatment really should be considered the last attempt at making a motor work that really needs rebuilding, and never should be considered a preventitive or good thing.
12-05-06, 09:19 AM
#30
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 109 Likes
on
92 Posts
Originally Posted by trueimport
If you have some ATF you could do an ATF flush to loosen up those apex seals. That would help restore some compression and help the longevity. I see that in your sig you have a rebuild but the ATF flush is always a good thing!
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/atftrick.htm
Originally Posted by spot_skater
Take out your air pump, block off your ACV.
Take out your spare tire and jack if you're feeling daring.
Take out **** you don't need. Full emissions removal would be nice, and would clean up the bay.
Originally Posted by blmcquig
a can of WD40 or some lock cleaner type stuff.
spray and clean all your latches, locks, hinges, pivot points, etc.
spray and clean all your latches, locks, hinges, pivot points, etc.
Originally Posted by pimpdaddy7835
and I've got aftermarket exhaust
an alright glass pack with the stock mufflers
this hick told me to stick a water hose in the muffler and make the glass in the
glasspack shatter so my car sounds loud....
good... bad.. what??
an alright glass pack with the stock mufflers
this hick told me to stick a water hose in the muffler and make the glass in the
glasspack shatter so my car sounds loud....
good... bad.. what??
Originally Posted by Rotary Noob
Remove your seats, remove your kick plates, remove your headliner and your trim pieces, remove your speakers, remove your jackstand/tire, remove the package straps, remove the fiberglass tubs, or the seats, whichever you have. Remove your carpet, and replace your seats. Seats are a 14mm, seat belts are 16, dash is 10, headliner and interior can be removed with a screwdriver, some pressure, and common sense.
Buy a different battery, so you have 3/8"s terminals, instead of the giant *** 1" ones. Replace the connectors so that you get a nice solid clamp, and its not wiggling around. Wont corrode as easily either, if you get the marine connectors. Make sure you crimp that stuff right though, i believe the stock wiring is a 6 or a 4 AWG.
You could remove the blower motor, the AC, the AC pump, the heater core (and then just go to home depot and buy some rubber hose of the same type that is already there, and run it all the way round the engine to complete the coolant circut)
12-07-06, 05:01 PM
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: willis, VA
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Exactly what is this supposed to accomplish? Downgrading the electrical system in cars prone to flooding is not exactly a wise move.
), I can accidentally hit the gas before I turn the key and she fires no prob, so what’s the deal???
12-08-06, 01:43 PM
#34
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 109 Likes
on
92 Posts
Originally Posted by RX drift
Not to argue the fact, I totally agree, but am I the only one with a rotary engine that doesn’t flood?? I have never had it flood once, I can rev it to 2,000 rpm and shut it of(not good I’m sure but sometimes do it cause it sounds cool LOL ), I can accidentally hit the gas before I turn the key and she fires no prob, so what’s the deal???
), I can accidentally hit the gas before I turn the key and she fires no prob, so what’s the deal???The rev to 2K trick is an old one with fuel injected RX-7s and goes a long way to prevent flooding. Bad idea in a carb'ed car since it just pulls more fuel into the engine (and makes a hellacious backfire).
12-08-06, 05:16 PM
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: willis, VA
Posts: 303
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
They tend to flood if they are in poor tune (dripping injectors, bad plugs, low compression, etc.). I've never had much of a flooding issue either since I always kept my car in good shape. Only one RX-7 I've owned would flood because it had low compression.
The rev to 2K trick is an old one with fuel injected RX-7s and goes a long way to prevent flooding. Bad idea in a carb'ed car since it just pulls more fuel into the engine (and makes a hellacious backfire).
The rev to 2K trick is an old one with fuel injected RX-7s and goes a long way to prevent flooding. Bad idea in a carb'ed car since it just pulls more fuel into the engine (and makes a hellacious backfire).
SO if i catch that right the 2k rev is actually beneficial on a fuel injected rotary?
12-09-06, 11:35 PM
#37
Upside-umop Racing
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Naples, Fl
Posts: 412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by spot_skater
Take out your air pump, block off your ACV. Take off A/C and power steering if you don't use or like them. Take out your spare tire and jack if you're feeling daring. Remove your evaporator if you don't use the A/C and want to be gangster.
Take out **** you don't need. Full emissions removal would be nice, and would clean up the bay. It's not "free" but it is cheap (relatively), relocate the battery to a storage bin.
Use your imagination, yo.
James
Take out **** you don't need. Full emissions removal would be nice, and would clean up the bay. It's not "free" but it is cheap (relatively), relocate the battery to a storage bin.
Use your imagination, yo.
James
When removing the Air Pump, what all else does that entail? Obviously, remove belt and pump itself, but what needs to be capped, plugged, rerouted, so on and so forth? Please respond quickly because I just gutted my cats and need to do or not do this quite soon.
12-10-06, 10:55 AM
#38
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 109 Likes
on
92 Posts
Originally Posted by RX drift
SO if i catch that right the 2k rev is actually beneficial on a fuel injected rotary?
Originally Posted by Bama420
When removing the Air Pump, what all else does that entail? Obviously, remove belt and pump itself, but what needs to be capped, plugged, rerouted, so on and so forth? Please respond quickly because I just gutted my cats and need to do or not do this quite soon.
12-12-06, 12:35 PM
#39
So i was at mazdatrix and it turns out the water injection treatment can be dangerous. while burning carbon out, it turns out chances of a large piece getting caught in between the housing after the spark and on its way out to through the header.
I would rather rev my car at high rpm if thats the case.
every beep every shift~ no?
I would rather rev my car at high rpm if thats the case.
every beep every shift~ no?
12-12-06, 04:12 PM
#44
Originally Posted by lchaidez
So i was at mazdatrix and it turns out the water injection treatment can be dangerous. while burning carbon out, it turns out chances of a large piece getting caught in between the housing after the spark and on its way out to through the header.
I would rather rev my car at high rpm if thats the case.
every beep every shift~ no?
I would rather rev my car at high rpm if thats the case.
every beep every shift~ no?
12-12-06, 04:58 PM
#47
Originally Posted by My5ABaby
And that's different than high revving how? They both remove carbon that's built up. Solution: Don't let it build up in the first place.
like you said dont let it build up... good point
12-12-06, 05:24 PM
#48
What's the point??
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 995
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is really old school- "the Italian tuneup" drive at redline for ~2 minutes... and hope your omp pumps enough oil.
I don't really recommend it though. I would rather use water or seafoam.
I don't really recommend it though. I would rather use water or seafoam.
