If you have glass packs and a non turbo, you probably have no baffling anyway and the fiberglass has long since melted out of the car.

Glasspacks typically last only weeks on a non turbo rotary, and sometimes just hours depending on the quality and materials. They just can not stand up to the heat.

 

whats ATF?

 

Here's a couple of my favorite cheap/free mods.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/how-de-power-your-steering-rack-right-way-440198/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-build-lower-arm-bar-under-%2415-448638/

I built a brake MC brace with the lefotver material from the lower arm bar.

Other than that, there's lightening like people have mentionned.

 

Nobody that has long term experience with rotary engines ever recommends the ATF BS. It is something that rotary newbies tell other newbies.

The ATF treatment really should be considered the last attempt at making a motor work that really needs rebuilding, and never should be considered a preventitive or good thing.

 

The "ATF flush" is NEVER a good thing. Really I wonder where this myth started. ATF DOES NOT dissolve carbon, and is harmful to the rubber found in the engine.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/atftrick.htm

Only if the cats have already been eliminated...

Don't do that. You'll have a flat and get suck somewhere in the middle of nowhere at 1AM with no-one around for 25 miles. Ask me how I know.

Gain: nothing. And really easy to screw up the car if you don't know what you are doing (see many past threads for examples).

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant. It's a very light oil that is good for basically nothing but for use as a cutting oil or to remove water from electrical connections (WD stands for Water Displacer). Spraying it onto hinges or locks will REMOVE the lubricant that is already there and cause them to wear and stick. If you want to properly lubricate these things, you need to use white lithium grease.

What do you think?

Now this is just my personal opinion, but driving a car around on the street without an interior sucks. It's loud, rattly, cheap feeling and just makes the car feel like it was just pulled out of a junkyard.

Exactly what is this supposed to accomplish? Downgrading the electrical system in cars prone to flooding is not exactly a wise move.

Keep in mind that many safety inspections specify that if the vehicle was equipped with a heater from the factory, it MUST be functional for the defrosting capability. Also, what kind of crazy person removes a heater? Crap, I wouldn't even do that in a pure track car.

 

Not to argue the fact, I totally agree, but am I the only one with a rotary engine that doesn’t flood?? I have never had it flood once, I can rev it to 2,000 rpm and shut it of(not good I’m sure but sometimes do it cause it sounds cool LOL ), I can accidentally hit the gas before I turn the key and she fires no prob, so what’s the deal???

 

useless post but...

+10! Aaron cake, well said!!

Edit: Also, does that water injection treatment really work aaron???

 

Yes the water injection is awesome. Don't know if its any better but I used MMO before.

 

They tend to flood if they are in poor tune (dripping injectors, bad plugs, low compression, etc.). I've never had much of a flooding issue either since I always kept my car in good shape. Only one RX-7 I've owned would flood because it had low compression.

The rev to 2K trick is an old one with fuel injected RX-7s and goes a long way to prevent flooding. Bad idea in a carb'ed car since it just pulls more fuel into the engine (and makes a hellacious backfire).

 

one of the greatest thing i have ever done to my car was change the shifter bushings, its so nice.

 

Well i have about 12k on a rebuild and she is still puling strong, and with a oil change every three months or less i guess she is in good cond.

SO if i catch that right the 2k rev is actually beneficial on a fuel injected rotary?

 

When removing the Air Pump, what all else does that entail? Obviously, remove belt and pump itself, but what needs to be capped, plugged, rerouted, so on and so forth? Please respond quickly because I just gutted my cats and need to do or not do this quite soon.

 

It's beneficial if your car wants to flood as it clears the engine of fuel. Otherwise it's basically pointless.

You can lose the ACV and associated vacuum lines. You will also need a duel belt alternator pully so you can run another belt on the water pump pully to avoid slippage. Search for "airpump removal" as this has been covered 10,001 times in the past.

 

So i was at mazdatrix and it turns out the water injection treatment can be dangerous. while burning carbon out, it turns out chances of a large piece getting caught in between the housing after the spark and on its way out to through the header.

I would rather rev my car at high rpm if thats the case.

every beep every shift~ no?

 

i guess i mean this piece i didnt necessarily mean in between the housing... ill grab a pic and show you



The Rotor isnt exactly positioned, but I hope you understand my picture.

 

The TB mod is a good cheapie/ freebie too.

 

Only on a TII. On an NA, it accomplishes nothing.

 

Good point Aaron. There would be no performance gain on a N/A. The biggest gain would be easier and quicker removal of the UIM

 

And that's different than high revving how? They both remove carbon that's built up. Solution: Don't let it build up in the first place.

 

You could also take your Mom's rolling pin and roll your fenders. This is of course to make way for the new fatty tires you can squeeze underneath with all the money you saved from your free mods

 

A better choice would be an old baseball bat, that way your mom's not going to use it to beat you with after your done with it.

 

true, but i just thought i should mention it. I mean I was told this information, and I thought it would be helpful to some extent of other knew the possible things that could occur. Im pretty sure that this would occur either with high rev or water injection.... but yea long story short...

like you said dont let it build up... good point

 

This is really old school- "the Italian tuneup" drive at redline for ~2 minutes... and hope your omp pumps enough oil.

I don't really recommend it though. I would rather use water or seafoam.