bewst12psi

iTrader: (7)

lol i ripped one of those out of my probe and chopped the car up to make it RWD with a Rotary.

That was my first car when I was 16.... still working on it.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

I'm gonna stick with the Rtek for this build for two reasons. 1- I'm doing a budget build, don't want to spend too much on my first build that will also be my daily. 2- I'm only looking to get 250-300rwhp out of this build, so it's well within the 400hp limit that the Rtek's are used for.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Yes I do want to build a rotary, I'm not putting any piston engine in a SA22/FB, FC or FD.

canonize-ryda

good man

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

I think it's retarded, I'd rather build a decent engine instead of buying something like an LS1 and saying I'm badass. Not to mention that piston swaps on RX-7's throw off the 50/50 weight balance. Plus you have to worry about more **** breaking and more stuff to upgrade and more expensive to upgrade. And I love the way rotaries sound plus their reliability. Don't get me wrong, I'll still drool over a 454BB Chevy or 440 Mopar Hemi, but not as much as I'll drool over a built 13B or 20B 3 Rotor.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Kinky sex= on the hood of a 454 powered Chevelle while it's rumbling, it's like sitting on a Harley for the lady.

Unfortunately, Rotaries don't rumble, but they have everything else that muscle cars don't.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i like the IDEA of the KL engine, but by the time you have it all fabbed up and in the car, you could have driven a 13BT with BNR turbo 10,000miles....

it depends on what you want, if you want a car that you can drive, its sooOOooo much easier just to run a stock engine. and the stock engine with a bigger bolt on turbo and exhaust is actually a lot of fun.

i see nothing wrong with an endless project/piece of metal that looks like a car either. working on a car is part of the fun too, its just that you shouldn't confuse one or the other

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

CS13B

iTrader: (11)

There have been a couple ls- swap builds that have proven this wrong... something about the ls's being an all aluminum engine and what-not; they come pretty close to being 50-50.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

The 440cu in Hemi was the motor used in the Plymouth Hemi Cuda (Barracuda) it was hooked up to a Torqueflight transmission.

I was going to do this swap with my Dodge Daytona but I had to sell the car.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Hmm. That's interesting, now if it were a 350 small block Chevy though it would be a little further off from the 50-50. Is the LS1 swap coming close to 50-50 by just dropping the block in or is there other modification necessary to make it close to 50-50.

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

Damn. You should update Wikipedia.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plymouth_Barracuda

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

I would if I knew more about the subject but I don't know much more than what I put.

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

See, what I did there was point out that you were mistaken.

Boso FC

LS swaps are for the hick half or rx7 owners.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

True, but in the end it's still a bitch to get the original 50-50 balance after the swap. And you didn't answer my other question. Do the LS1 swaps come close to 50-50 by just bolting the block in or are modifications necessary?

Either way though it's not the wonderful 50-50 balance that the FC's start with, or the same weight.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

Or for those who do not want to build to make power and torque but can afford to buy it, even if I had more money than I knew what to do with, I would rather build an engine instead of buying one to make power. And I would still rock an old school RX-3 rather than buy a Corvette or Viper or Ferrari like most rich mother ******* do.

"I have no respect for store bought cars"- Jake B
"Built NEVER Bought"- Jake B

canonize-ryda

built never bought.. i like that

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

If I'm gonna do an engine swap in an RX then it'll be a 20B Cosmo 3 Rotor or 26B 4-Rotor. Keep it rotary baby.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

if i was going to do the 20B again, it would be NA. and it would be just for the noise!

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

Um, no, see, there was never a 440 Hemi.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the 426 hemi is related to the 426 wedge, but and they share bore and stroke, but other than that i think they are pretty different, IE different block, head (duh) pistons, rods, etcc etc.

and WTF? "The street Hemi version was rated at 425 bhp (316.9 kW)(Gross) with two Carter AFB carburetors. In actual dynomometer testing, it produced 315 rear-wheel HP in purely stock form.[1] Interestingly, Chrysler's sales literature[2] published both Gross and Net HP ratings for 1971 (425 Gross HP and 350 Net HP.)"

BTW 350hp = 50hp per liter, which sucks. no wonder you can change the blinker fluid and pick up like 50hp....

SoloII///M

iTrader: (13)

The casting quality of the heads back then was very poor. Minor work would pick up hundreds of horsepower.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yeah, cause it underperforms. IMO it actually is nice when you can buy a car bolt on a couple of parts and pick up some HP.

Shadowscreed

iTrader: (1)

The Plymouth Hemi Cuda was a 440 cu in block. Are you saying there was never a Chrysler production 440 cu in BB or that there was never a 440 cu in BB Hemi