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What should I do for my N/A build?

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Old 03-29-11, 11:32 PM
  #26  
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I added my input to the list below. Opinions will vary, so hopefully others will give some more input, but you will see some recurring themes here. The mods should be good for about 300bhp. Turbocharging is a nice, quieter way to make more hp and torque.

Engine and Exhaust:
S4 13bt
S5 turbo and ported wastegate S4 turbo with a BNR Stage 1 or 2 upgrade http://gonzaloherrero.com/bnr/index....d=67&Itemid=89
Racing Beat 3inch downpipe + cat delete
Racing Beat 3 inch catback
Complete Racing Beat Rev TII exhaust
Mild or Large Streetport(Fun but not totally needed)
550cc 720cc primary injectors
720cc secondary injectors
Rtek 1.7 1.8
Emissions removal
Throttle body mod(???)

FD3S dual belt alternator
Aeromotive FPR
Walbro Fuel pump
All-aluminum radiator (Koyo, Fluidyne, AWR, etc.)
Front-mount intercooler

Drivetrain:
Lightweight flywheel (Light is not necessary, but you will need a TII sized flywheel to fit the Turbo II transmission)
S4 or S5 Turbo II transmission with TII starter and clutch slave cylinder
New TII driveshaft (unless you are SURE your used Turbo II shaft will last a while before binding up and shaking your car apart)
TII rear end and TII halfshafts
Exedy,Spec,act clutches are all good. (Must be Turbo II size)

Suspension:
Strut bars are ok, They help a little. Get the Infini stock strut bar
Cusco rear lower strut bar
Sway bars aren't really needed to upgrade
Ksport coilovers. They're cheap and good. You won't know the difference between a $2K set of something and Ksports.
Ksport is cheap ricer crap. If you really don't know the difference, then just save your money and stick with the stock suspension configuration. Most street cars use Tokico Illumina or KYB AGX dampers paired with Racing Beat, Suspension Techniques, or Eibach springs.
New suspension bushings and mounts

Brakes:
Get some good pads and that's it. Stock 4 piston brakes are awesome. A good pad will make them great.
Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
Precision Shaft Technologies make Carbon Fiber Driveshafts, it'll cost about $1,000 but it will also shave 30lbs of rotational mass from the car.
If you want a trick driveshaft, Mazdatrix sells an aluminum TII driveshaft for less than the price of a new OEM driveshaft.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/g9.htm

Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
LOL, I'm getting flamed for being a retard but at the same time I'm getting valuable knowledge on something I don't know much about.
LOL, this forum is known for being blunt.
Old 03-30-11, 12:45 AM
  #27  
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Thanks for the build info. I'll look into it.
Old 03-30-11, 10:35 PM
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Keep in mind these cars weigh well under 3000 pounds. So 200HP is nothing to sneeze at. There fun to drive and handle really well.
If you insist on making more than 200 HP, and keeping it streetable, your only option is forced induction.
If you turbo your motor and source parts correctly (find a tired TII), you will spend thousands less than building a 250 HP n/a motor.

There is a guy on here that built a cosmo motor with S5 rotors and a standalone making about 250. I can't remember his handle now, but you can find his threads in the n/a section. he builds motors in main or new york or something. he said if I sourced the block he could build one for about $2500. Not bad considering a PP will run way over that. That still requires a standalone.

A stock TII turbo will easily make 250. 350 is doable with a turbo upgrade and a tad more $$.
Old 03-30-11, 11:52 PM
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I've decided already that I'm going to do an S4 Turbo II swap.
Old 03-31-11, 01:29 AM
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Like Evil Aviator, I recommend BNR. I had my turbo built by them. Amazing job, amazing service, great power, low cost...
Old 03-31-11, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Shadowscreed
I've decided already that I'm going to do an S4 Turbo II swap.
dude, get an s5 swap. better engine, better turbo.
Old 03-31-11, 03:29 PM
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This is my first build, I don't wanna get too complicated with it and don't wanna spend too much money. My second build will be much more extensive and cost more. I plan on using the S4 Turboo II motor and tranny and using the S5 Turbo and porting the waste gate. But I'm still open to suggestions.

I'm buying my FC on Saturday from my friend and I'm going to buy a shell to use for the build later on.
Old 03-31-11, 03:58 PM
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the s5 has stronger irons, and a better intake manifold, and better inter cooler.
Old 03-31-11, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
the s5 has stronger irons, and a better intake manifold, and better inter cooler.
The S4 BNR upgrade negates the S5 turbo advantage, S4 vs. S5 intercooler plumbing size is a moot point if a front mount intercooler is used, the stronger irons don't make any difference for an engine of 400bhp or less, and the intake manifold is not any better with respect to the turbo engines. I don't see how it is worth the trouble to swap a S5 turbo engine into a S4 car.

You can see from RETed's website guide that the S4 and S5 engines are basically even in the 250-400bhp range.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm
Old 04-01-11, 12:05 AM
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I'm gonna use an Isuzu FMIC that won't block as much airflow from the front dam, and I'm only looking to push 300-350rwhp for my first build. My second build will be a 20B Cosmo swap.
Old 04-01-11, 10:20 AM
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ok the commerical for the gxl s4 says 148 hp stock. add10-12 hp for s5 uim and lim, say another 10 for headers and full exhuast, and another 5 with a proper cone filter or KnN replacement filter. thats already 175 hp. and a streetport has to be good for over 25 hp at least i would hope so. so theres 200, plus theres 5 more for removing ps, and a few from throttle body mod, may not be at the wheels but its cheaper than alot of options.

Last edited by canonize-ryda; 04-01-11 at 10:26 AM.
Old 04-01-11, 10:46 AM
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don't forget -40hp for worn out housings and seals.
Old 04-01-11, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by canonize-ryda
ok the commerical for the gxl s4 says 148 hp stock. add10-12 hp for s5 uim and lim, say another 10 for headers and full exhuast, and another 5 with a proper cone filter or KnN replacement filter. thats already 175 hp. and a streetport has to be good for over 25 hp at least i would hope so. so theres 200, plus theres 5 more for removing ps, and a few from throttle body mod, may not be at the wheels but its cheaper than alot of options.

Ricer math. Those estimates are very optimistic.
Old 04-01-11, 12:38 PM
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i have a brand new crate 13b with only 10k on it, its not too tired.
Old 04-01-11, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by canonize-ryda
ok the commerical for the gxl s4 says 148 hp stock. add10-12 hp for s5 uim and lim, say another 10 for headers and full exhuast, and another 5 with a proper cone filter or KnN replacement filter. thats already 175 hp. and a streetport has to be good for over 25 hp at least i would hope so. so theres 200, plus theres 5 more for removing ps, and a few from throttle body mod, may not be at the wheels but its cheaper than alot of options.
you're warm. i think 10-12 is about right for the S5 intake, removing the cats is good for 5-10hp, header 0 (ive seen the header actually dyno less than the manifold, although the header engine was TIRED). cone filter does nothing.

so that's 165/175 which is about what we actually see. if you wanted more, you can contact gtorx7. and he can make you a really nice header/exhaust.

the street port might do 25, but its limited by the stock intake manifold.
Old 04-01-11, 02:18 PM
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It already has no power steering, and I've got the exhaust manifold with no exhaust so it's unrestricted.
Old 04-01-11, 06:20 PM
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what do you mean "no exhaust"?
Old 04-01-11, 06:38 PM
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probably means no piping after the manifold, or no mufflers and just straight pipe....holy deafening ears.
Thats pretty much bad for any power in low to mid range on a N/a
Old 04-01-11, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Black Knight RX7 FC3S
probably means no piping after the manifold, or no mufflers and just straight pipe....holy deafening ears.
Thats pretty much bad for any power in low to mid range on a N/a
You are exactly right, I can get the catback for free from a guy in Phoenix but I still need the section between the manifold and the Y-pipe. If anyone is selling this or doesn't want it I would greatly appreciate it.
Old 04-02-11, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by canonize-ryda
ok the commerical for the gxl s4 says 148 hp stock. add10-12 hp for s5 uim and lim, say another 10 for headers and full exhuast, and another 5 with a proper cone filter or KnN replacement filter. thats already 175 hp. and a streetport has to be good for over 25 hp at least i would hope so. so theres 200, plus theres 5 more for removing ps, and a few from throttle body mod, may not be at the wheels but its cheaper than alot of options.
you are not going to get 200 wheel hp without tuning the intake (ie cutting it up) and you also need to have a fully custom exhaust. simply bolting stuff to the car will only net about 20 wheel hp.

lets not forget some way to tune the fuel and spark.
Old 04-02-11, 01:11 AM
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That's what the Rtek is for.
Old 04-02-11, 08:15 AM
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The Rtek has a downside to reach 400hp, the MAF.
The Rtek is good for under 400hp, I havent seen anybody go over it with one yet.
That and the injector sizing. Some people ran 1000cc with it and it does well.
Old 04-02-11, 10:03 AM
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i my self wasnt talking rwhp but brake hp. rear wheel is different and depends how well u can transfer the bhp to the rwhp. so im not too of as far as bhp goes but rwhp im way off.
Old 04-02-11, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by canonize-ryda
i my self wasnt talking rwhp but brake hp. rear wheel is different and depends how well u can transfer the bhp to the rwhp. so im not too of as far as bhp goes but rwhp im way off.
no one talks about flywheel hp. real numbers are what you put to the ground.
Old 04-02-11, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SirCygnus
no one talks about flywheel hp. real numbers are what you put to the ground.
thats why i chimed in to let you know i was wrong..


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