FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

i got my rx7 running top notch now....its a S5 TII engine built by Tom's Racing
the engine is solid....perfect compression,no smoke....i know 100% sure theres no vacuum leaks... I drove myself nuts looking for an imaginary one when i was trying to get it running right
the engine has
4 extra 550cc injectors,
greddy IC piping,
garrett ar60 turbo,
emissions removed
os giken twin disk clutch
tom's racing tuned ecu

i couldn't see it not being ported

the lowest i can get it idling is 1100rpm and it has a bit of a shake to it and it only has 9in-hg for vacuum
it idles nice at 1500rpm and holds a steady 12in-hg

if i try to drop the idle below 1100 it get a bad shake to it and will want to die
the timing is fine
i'll put some video's of it idling at 1100 and 1500 rpm to let you guys listen to it
in a bit

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

From the older videos you had I would say if it is ported, its mild.

Even a medium to large streetport should idle below 1000rpm just fine, so there's something a little off there. If its pulling short of 10inches of mercury at 1100RPM, there's definetly something a little fishey.....my half bridge engine pulls more then that idling at 1150-1200RPM.

If you have a video with it running with exhaust on it, I could get a better idea but I'd venture to guess its got a mild streetport, however it *should* idle much lower then that.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

yeah i kinda made a noob mistake....those old video of it are with it running the secondaries as the primaries

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone figured out what "Tom's Racing" is yet?

How are these being controlled?

Any information on what this means?

That's nowhere near enough vacuum. A stock to street port engine should idle cleanly well under 1000 RPM and pull between 15-18" of vacuum.

Are you SURE you don't have a vacuum leak? How do you know?

Do you get any smoke from the tailpipe?

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

sorry i was lookin at the wrong thing i double checked it its at about 12 inhg at 1000-1100 rpm


tom's racing is a race team and performance shop.....their special edition cars are in grand tourismo
they are only toyota and lexus now

when i try to drop the idle below 1000rpm it gets a bad shake to it

at 1500-2k it will hold a steady 15inhg

theres no smoke at the tail pipe....once you tube finish processing my video i have some clips with an actual video camera and i have a rigged up exhaust on it...it still as a leak but it quiets it down alot

i check every atleast 20 times....went around every with a propane torch 3 times lookin for a vacuum leak

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

heres a video of it idling....you can see it start shaking when i drop the idle below 1000
in the video i have it idling at 1100 and 1500

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rX4LEeb3Z4g


my dad definately doesn't have a chance at a career as a camera man

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

To me it sounds like it is leaking alot of exhaust??

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

i have a 3" downpipe bolted to a 2" flange with a homemade test pipe connected to the stock mufflers.....its just to quiet it down so i don't **** the neighbors off....i don't plan on makin any boost with this set up its just so i could idle it in the driveway

siguy2k

iTrader: (3)

Well you can clearly hear an exhaust leak and a big one at that. I dont know if that would be part of your problem but it definitly isnt a good thing. My streetported s5 turbo2 will idle at 750-800 no problem.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

im going to say with much certainty that toms never did anything for mazda, especially not for the rotary engine. they have been toyota only since the beginning, HENCE THE NAME (TOyotaMotorSports)

whoever fed you that info needs their head bashed in lol



have you checked your timing?

drftwerks

iTrader: (1)

what method are you using to find the vac leakss??

just carb spray, or smoke machine?

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

when i try to drop the idle below 1000rpm it starts bucking pretty bad....even 1000-1100rpm it still has a bit of a shake

this isn't goin to be a daily driver ...so i could live with alittle bit higher idle ....everything else is working top notch

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

unlit propane torch,looking and listening

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

they have performance shops...the ecu has a toms sticker on the eprom and the outer case ....and someone knew what they were doin and did a damn good job buildin that engine ....so how can you be so certain that back in 89-91 none of those shops ever worked on a rotary
Tom's didn't go full out toyota till the late 90's when they got their factory backin from toyota

TooMuch4You

I think your problem is that you have a coilover sitting in your engine bay.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you either have a blown motor or one of your primary injectors isn't firing, plain and simple.

if it sounds like a lawnmower on crack=popped motor.

a single chipped apex seal can be a little tricky to notice on the compression test, so watch the bounces very closely, a chipped apex seal can average a dropped bounce from 10psi all the way to 30+ on a single bounce and will cause the car to hard start and idle like pure *** but drive almost perfectly fine on the highway.

you know what a coilover even looks like? that's an air cleaner..

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

the motor is fine.....it runs fine....i can just pull my rigged up exhaust off and run it with the open downpipe seeing as you guys are so concerned with the exhaust leak
it revs strong ....because it won't idle down yet its blown?

lol

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you always have the choice to believe what other people tell you or not but it does not rev like a healthy motor should regardless of an exhaust leak. the pure rattle can shake when it drops below 1k is not due to porting.

sure, it doesn't look like it is running on just 1 rotor either, hence why i am thinking chipped apex seal or you have a dead coil pack.

the fact your vacuum is low is a good indicator you have an internal engine issue. a healthy engine even with a large port will pull 14in/Hg+ at idle less than 1k, at 1500 RPMs you should be pulling about 17-18+ in/Hg, even a few inches is a big indicator of a problem, especially if your gauge is bouncing meaning there is backpressure in the lower manifold meaning blowby(only mechanical gauges will typically show bouncing vacuum though).

you can run around chasing your tail if you want but i would suggest going back and doing the compression test again and paying closer attention to your tester or use a different gauge this time around, or make sure you are doing the test right.

i'm used to people being in denial but remember, i've built over a hundred engines...

start with checking your timing leading AND trailing and making sure your plug wires are installed in the right order, if it is all kosher then recheck your compression regardless if you think it is good to go or not.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

i was gettin the motor to start first try when i was running the secondaries as primaries

it starts up first try on the 2 or 3rd crank when its cold at about -3celcius
when its warm it fires right up

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

is it a secondhand motor or something you just installed directly from your builder? or a problem that you noticed after driving it around for a little bit?

veedubbed

Between the video, and your reported vacuum readings - something is not right in the motor. It should idle fine at 750, and should be pulling a lot more vacuum than that.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

It only has about an hour or so run time sitting in my driveway idling since i spliced it in
i haven't even drove it yet....today is the first day i actually got it idling and running right i figured it out last night and fixed it this morning...obviously theres some more tweaking to be done...
it revs good...no miss or hesitation i was just givin it little blips on the gas pedal up to 2k
i can make you a video with me reving it up ..
on my mechanical boost guage at 12-1500 it stays locked on 15 inhg...the factory gauge goes down by the 20 ...but i'm not sure about that one



i've been thinkin to....i don't have a highflow fuel pump yet its just the stock TII pump....would that richen it up at idle ...maybe thats why?

veedubbed

Wait - the motor has ONE hour of run time on it?


Well of course it's not going to idle below 1500 - your seals are still bedding in. This would also be why you are pulling low vacuum. Set the idle for 1500 and start putting miles on it, while keeping the revs low and staying out of boost for the next 1,000 miles or so. You need to break in the motor before it starts idling right.

FC3Sdrift

iTrader: (5)

not from brand new but who knows how long it sat....i had it sitting for 6 months atleast

the vacuum was goin up at 1k though cuz at first it was at 9 then i shut it off went back later and it had 12 i thought i had just misread my gaugeit always stays solid
it doesn't dance....theres no hesitation when the i start it its usually wa wa woom

i'll take it for some granny drives down the street tomorrow

its a JDM S5 TII engine spliced into a S4 TII chassis

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Still, that's very low.

Ah, I see. I had never heard of "Tom's Racing" until it was mentioned in your thread and a Google search just turned up a page in Japanese with a Flash animation that was taking 5 minutes to load. I don't follow racing much.

Still not enough vacuum.

Based on the video, I'd say you're running on one rotor.

If the compression is good, then it's going to be an electrical problem.

Pull the plugs (you did put in new plugs, right?) and compare the front and rear plugs. I suspect you'll find one set that looks good (though black with carbon) and another set that is either bone dry or sopping wet with fuel.

If it's bone dry, the injector is not firing.

If it's sopping wet, then the plug is not firing.

I find that a mechanics stethescope is the best tool for diagnosing a possible injector issue.

Do you have a build sheet for the engine? Pictures of the build? Without those, the engine is still a big question mark.