All the bushings in the rear end on my fc are shot and the rear end is all over the road just wondering what are all the bushings I need to replace? Cad is lowered too

was looking at getting this from PBM just wondering if anything else is needed or if any of it’s not needed
Subframe Risers
DTSS Eliminators
Trailing Arm Spherical Bushings
Trailing Arm Camber Links

and then is this Trailing Arm Rear Upper Bushing the same as the spherical one just not spherical or is it a different part?

Do I need Lateral Toe Rods?

And is Solid Diff Forward Bushing and Diff Riser needed too?

would like to do everything at once don’t want to drop the read end again was a pain to get back in with just one jack just wondering if this is all the bushings in the rear end other then the sway bar bushings?

 

different part, the bearings go in the front of the trailing arm, these go in the rear top

nope! on a stock car you can change these rods without removing anything else, although if you move the subframe up, maybe not

yes! i wonder how loud an all metal setup like that is, but you do want the diff bushings for sure

 

is moving the subframe up necessary on a lowered car? I see a lot of people say yes and no, so I don’t really need the toe rods or diff bushings? Doesn’t really want solid diff mount after reading about how loud they are either

 

the trouble with the FC setup is that the rear camber changes with ride height. at stock ride height camber is ok, give or take, but when you lower it you get more than you want.

you can adjust the stock setup with a camber link, but only to a point https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...le/FCSFCA.html
so the next thing you can do is raise the suspension in the car

plenty of people have lowered the car with the stock stuff, but if you lower the car AND fix the geometry its better, if you can put up with the noise (if any)
it also depends on how low you're trying to go, and how much camber you want in the rear.

 

yeah just from lowering it I’ve got about -4 in the rear now I don’t mind it but where I live the police definetly do so maybe -2 or so would be better just trying to improve the ride mostly my wheel is cambering in and out on corners my coworker said since he was behind me the other day so guessing it’s one of the bushings on the trailing arm or something so just wanted to replace all since there all shot in the rear end

 

Subframe Risers - Solid upgrade. I had no issues with these.
DTSS Eliminators - very important to eliminate the flaw engineered into our platform.
Trailing Arm Spherical Bushings - The best upgrade to the rear end. No questions asked. Put the cups in a freezer to soften the material them press them in.
Trailing Arm Camber Links - these reduce negative camber significantly. If you are aiming for negative camber then go with the ronin speed works kit. It comes with three stages of lengths. When you go solid diff and subframe bushings sometimes the rear end doesn't bolt on square in terms of alignment. You might have a variance. This kit helps address that variance.
Lateral Toe Rods These are one of the best upgrades for our cars. It allows you to set toe. Highly recommend. Make sure to torque the bolts more than the FSM spec. I went with 60 lbft.
Solid Diff Forward Bushing The oem POS just rips off over time along with the terrible engineering behind it. This is the way. Just combine it with a pinion snub to keep the diff from ever wanting to tilt up.
Diff Riser If you're going solid then go all out. Just make sure the big part of the bushing is facing down. (if you are under the car looking up you should be able to see it. It should not be between the diff and the chassis.

Also don't forget the trailing arm upper bushing. You'll already have the arms out might as well.

Just know that when you go solid in the rear end. Depending on your ride height you can have issues adjusting camber. You will have to unbolt the diff and subframe then extend the center link (which isn't the ideal way to do it, but this chassis is limited on options). There is no more play in the rear end because it has no rubber bushings anymore. I personally loved the upgrade! I even did solid motor and transmission mounts. If you have any questions hit me up on IG: Gabrielized

 

did you mean the stock toe adjusters? or both?

 

So the oem toe links on the car aren't adjustable. The FSM states that you adjust toe on the front of the control arms (where the new spherical trailing arm bushings will be installed). Once you go with the PSM toe links you have the ability to adjust toe by rotating the heim joint to get to your desired angle.