Hey, rotary heads, Question to those that done their TB mod and removed all emission together. What happen??
what kindda problems did u face before and after??

I'm asking because I've done removing my spider vac rack..didn't removed the parts (AVC, EGR, BAC) simply use a vac line and block it off with a screw.
the porblem i have now is it idle @4k!!!! and when i try to adjust it with the cable..it dies.
so i'm assuming i have a bad vac leak, i replace the uim gasket with new Mazda part. but @ the same time i strip 1 of the bolt that hold the UIM to the LIM( the closest 1 to the firewall) so i think that is 1 of the problem..

My plan now is to get a block off plate from K2RD,
perform TB mod ( to remove thermowax to prevent coolant leak problem in hard to reach place)
and TID all @ the same time..hopfully sometime after Chrismas. So my car is now parking liveless and sad my holiday spirit is ruin

so please help me answer this questions..
1. How do u adjust the idle after u removed the BAC???
2. Will removeing the all that stuff help me with idle problems?? assumeing i fix the UIM & LIM problem??
( 1 bolt is not on right "strip")
meaning less vacume line less thing can go wrong..


Please don't give me BS, and hell or "SEARCH u dumbass SEARCH" my spirit is already down..so hlep me out a little.. thanks..
have a happy holiday.

 

Anybody??? nobody done this mods??? c'mon..

 

after removing the BAC your idle should be lower...

your TB plates are probably stuck part way open.

 

The idle won't be affected by the bac. The bac simply raises idle when there is a load on vacuum or electrical or starting.

Quote:

2. Will removeing the all that stuff help me with idle problems?? assumeing i fix the UIM & LIM problem??

no. It will have no effect

Quote:

( 1 bolt is not on right "strip")
meaning less vacume line less thing can go wrong..

Your idle problem is probably (I'd say 99% chance) from the stipped bolt. You must fix that before doing anything else. A single bolt not tight from the UIM to the mating LIM will alow a major leak.

Get some spray starting fluid, spray it around any spot you worked on. If there is a leak the RPMs will go up as the starting fluid seeps in any leaks.

 

OK, thanks ICE, u r always the hero!!
now, for that UIM & LIM can i simply drill thru all the way from UIM to LIM then use a long bolt ( thesame size as the original) with a nut to tight it together??

However, it is to my understanding is that Bac is use to Adjust the idle, if not, What is the right way to do it , after all is said and done; meaning BAC, ACV,EGR removed with TB & TID mod..perform.
thanks for the PROFESSIONAL replys
EDIT: i check the tps it's still good and in spec
is there anyway that i can check spec for the TB plateS??
keep in mind that I'll be doing TB mod.. Thanks

 

Yeah, you can use the bolt and nut that way to bolt the two together. Make sure that you can get at least 35 ft/lbs when tightening. The other thing you might want to do, is use some gasket sealer on both sides of the gasket. It will give you a little extra sealing (but make it a little more difficult to pull apart the next time).

The ECU uses the BAC to adjust idle. The ECU and engine will run just fine without it. You adjust idle from the mixture and TB. You shouldn't need to change the factory idle set unless you have already messed it up adjusting.