MazdaRx7Racer4Life

Im about to put te first oil in my just-rebuilt engine, I had it streetported (large) and atkins apex seals are goin in. What brand/thickness of oil should I use on the engine? Thanks

3RotorRocket

Castrol GTX 20W/50

3RotorRocket

Use a Purolator or Mazda OEM oil filter

Markus

i second his answer. I have used that oil (GTX 20w50) and Factory Mazda filters for nearly 12 years.

I am curious as to what others run around the country with all the climate differences and such..

rxspeed87

mine is a mostly stock N/A that I run Mobil 1 10w-30 in it
since the switch to synthetic oil I actually use less oil (need to get my oil cooler fixed since it leaks) and actually noticed a SLIGHT uppage in gas mileage with it


was using castrol GTX at one poin but made the switch and don't think I am going to go back at least right now kinda like this synthetic oil stuff
and if really does last longer I happy

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

On rebuilds I use crappy fram filters for the first 2 or 3 ... until it's broken in, then i'll go to a purolator filter. It's more cost effective this way and it really doesn't hurt the engine since you should be gettting your foot into it at this stage.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I always use 20w50 from castrol..

FYI- I have the original owners manual and it SPECIFICALLY STATES NOT TO USE SYNTHETIC...might wanna consider finding out why and swapping back..

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Castrol 20-50

rxspeed87

I'm well aware of the what the manual says

and also I think the manual was writen back in what the 80's?

wasn't synthetic oil at that time not a very clean burning oil or at least a few makers of synthetic oil?

things change all the time and oil gets better and better as time goes on


so far though most of what everyone has said about synthetic oil either seems t ocome from outdated information or they heard it from someone so it must be true



can anyone provide to me FACTS that synthetic oil is bad and it will cause damage?


if not I continue to use it till then
compression is still good and all in all it seems to work better then dino juice


but none the less thank you for keeping the eye out

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

ROCK ON!!! This topic hasnt come up like 50 or 60 times in the last few months...

Do a search on why synthetic is a no-no. You might reconsider.

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

"Synth oils would normally leave nasty deposits inside your engine (i.e. rotor housings) due to the higher "flash point" (vaporization temperature); we've seen Amsoil 20W50 specifically leave patches of deposits next to the spark plugs holes cause it doesn't burn very well; these deposits cause the apex seal to chatter over them, which causes havoc with sealing and compression between the rotor faces"

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/premix.html

GEINN FC3S

20w50 castrol gtx all the way with a piece of **** fram filter or stp lol

bingoboy

syth will not swell the new seals in the engine so they won't seat well like they do with dinosaur oil causing you to have more oil leaks/drips further down the road. you don't want to run synth until you have several thousand miles on the engine.


edit: wow talk about a run-on sentence

rxspeed87

ok guys I didn't try to turn this into a syn vs dino juice thread

but I have search MANY times on this before

though j-rat least have to give you one thing
you are one of the few I have seen that brought something up where ppl actually did some test

only other person I saw do that used some sort of torch and a spoon to burn the oils
castrol GTX vs havoline syn
GTX left more deposits he claimed


either way flash point of oil is around 400-500 degrees for synthetics which is about the same as dino juice
being that combustion temps are in excess of 1800 degrees I think that might exceed the flash point least if my math works out :p

so again if my math works out I don't think flash point of the oil has much to do with deposits

if anything would think more along the lins of how clean the oil is to start with with ash content and stuff rather then the flash point of an oil

but if you have any other PROOF (sorry must cap it cause many just use the well so and so said it or something to prove their point) that synthetic is bad it would be welcome


but please guys don't bring this into a pure syn vs dino war


to each there own if synthetic oil is bad then it's my fault
only contibute to synthetic being bad if you haev real proof guys


again though j-rat thank you for at least brining something to the table to back your point


and j-rat something I found a long time ago

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html
notice the difference on flash point between castrol GTX vs Mobile 1 on the 10w-30

only 35 degrees difference
either way a lot less then combustion chamber temps

but still not trying to knock you
if anything I respect your voice and thank you for least chiming in some data by another respectable company

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

Well I think ReTED has just a tad more exp with the matter, and he doesn't just pull **** out of his ***. If he says something he's got first hand exp with the issue to back it up. Read the premixing page, I put it there for a reason.

Racing beat will tell you synthetic oil is fine... they've never provided any scientific proof as to WHY it shouldn't cause deposits, which in turn cause seal chatter.

Parastie

I use premix and 20w30 in the engine. Synthetic premix seems to actually work the best (ashless) but at the moment I bought a big box of cheap 2-cycle that's going to last me for a few months...

rxspeed87

lol for not trying to turn this in a syn vs dino debate I have been doing a lot of talking

sorry guys nothing much else to do in idaho at 4 in the morning


but I did look at a few of reteds post

one thing I notice is he does say synthetic oil can leave deposits but only seems to claim from experience with amsoil

which in my opinion have never been fond of amsoil
just their claims seem too far fetch and have my own thinking on that but will leave that off here since it is just my thinking and not backed up by anything

but one other thing I did notice is he claimed a flash point of 700 degrees for synthetic oils
that can't be right I don't think


reted if you mind chiming in I would be thankfull

reted is god
along with the demigods of icemark,hailers and the few others I know I am forgetting

sorry haven't kept up on my worship guys please don't strike me down or make my PD start leaking again

RETed

doh
What you want me to say?

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/synth.html

I got tired of repeating myself.

If you do a search on the topic with my name, you'll find tons of replies in here....


-Ted

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

J-rat, reTed, F1Bluerx7, and myself (i guess i'm the local idiot cause i brought no proof) You know what they say, "you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him not run synthetic oil when there is proof right infront of his face of why you shouldn't..." Or something like that....I mean what are you thinking guys, I'm sure he knows better then the ENGINEERS who built and tested the motor right? Anyways it was a good attempt to save another rotary down the road, some wasted wisdom on deaf ears......

Matlock

No one will be able to tell you synthetic or convential is right for you, and by all means please don't listen to everything people say on the "forum" Everyone is an expert on here so, be your own.

BTW: you wont blow your engine running a specific type of oil. Syn or not.

Icemark

I'll say three things...

#1 if this is another thread on synth vs conventional, that I (or another mod) will shut the thread down.

#2 Only an uneducated person would say that all synths should not be used in a rotary, when so many people and companies have used them with no problems.

#3 You better f%$#ing search next time. Both oil and oil types have been covered 1000's of times! This is both for the thread starter and the pundants against and for synths.

rxse7en

Apollo America will soon have a synthetic product available. They are the ones who supplied the fluids for the LeMans-winning 787b and they also provide the fluids for a lot of Japanese imports--including Mazda.

B

GTUser

I have an 89 GTU with about 6k miles on a newly rebuilt engine and I use Castrol 20W50 year-round. I changed the oil at 1K miles and again at 2k after the rebuild and will be changing it every 3K miles from here on out. I do not use anything except the natural stuff since it only stays in the car for 3,000 -3,500 K.

F1blueRx7

iTrader: (5)

heh, Back on topic...

I did oil change at 500, 1500, 3000, now that it's all done breaking in @ 4k I'm converting it over to premix, and then running synth in the engine. This way there is no chance of it causeing problems to the engine.

MazdaRx7Racer4Life

4k miles breaking in? Im breaking mine in for 600 miles, and ill be using castrol gtx 20w50, since that it what seems to work for everyone here/