What kinda power am I looking at?
#1
What kinda power am I looking at?
100% stock s5 T2 about 10k miles, I'm going to do 550 and 750 injectors, rtec 2.1 ported waste gate down pipe full exhaust, intake filter with a heat shroud, and a fmic, with the throttle body mod and all emissions removed, walbro 255 FP, it will be stock turbo for a while.
#5
Theoretical Tinkerer
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what is horse? It all depends on how generous the 'correction factor' is and how the dyno operator is feeling that day. You can also have fun with the fuel calculator.
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#8
Driving RX7's since 1979
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100% stock s5 T2 about 10k miles, I'm going to do 550 and 750 injectors, rtec 2.1 ported waste gate down pipe full exhaust, intake filter with a heat shroud, and a fmic, with the throttle body mod and all emissions removed, walbro 255 FP, it will be stock turbo for a while.
550 and 750 injectors
rtec 2.1
ported waste gate (S5 turbo not as necessary as S4)
down pipe and full exhaust (just don't get short sighted and get rid of your stock cats for ever tightening emission situations down the road)
Intake Filter (CARB approved is your friend)
Heat shroud for doing your homework
FMIC (upgrade your radiator to compensate for resultant cooling issue due to air flow restriction)
Throttle Body Mod -- (moderate at best power value to tell the truth. I wouldn't do it unless it was defective)
all emissions removed (if you're going to make it primarily a track car , if your keeping it a daily driver. You just don't gain anything from a performance standpoint and DO gain a potential major headache down the road)
Walbro (Denso a better choice)
Stock Turbo (down the road consider a to4b that will mount stock including under the heat shroud to keep outa smog tech's view)
Bottom line, I strongly urge you to NOT be short sighted in what you're doing to a Bone Stock 10,000 mile (so very rare) S5 TII. I don't care what the smog check situation is NOW in AZ; it will only get worst going forward. And a low mileage car like yours, you need to consider resale value consequences.
#9
210-220 to the wheels I would say. Depends alot on what the boost level is. 10-11psi I would guess with the intake and exhaust set up you mentioned.
Listen to Hozzman on what not to do. His advice comes from a place that is rare from most giving advice.... experience, wisdom, hindsight.
Listen to Hozzman on what not to do. His advice comes from a place that is rare from most giving advice.... experience, wisdom, hindsight.
#10
Driving RX7's since 1979
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^ Thanks.
Case in point, an AZ guy looking to buy a TII. Read check is requirements:
https://www.rx7club.com/west-sale-wanted-classifieds-195/looking-clean-turbo-ii-have-cash-will-travel-972975/
If you're going to pull emissions, please just sell your car to that guy and buy a far more common high mileage TII and have your way with under the hood plans.
Sidebar, I'm putting 200 to the wheel with my S4 TII with S5 Turbo, RB RevII exhaust and FCD, drop in K&N, stock primary injectores, 680 secondary, Greddy Boost controller and AFCII running about 7-8.5 lbs of boost at max. I would not go higher boost with this set up as the AFC doesn't provide timing adjustment like a HalTech or the like would.
I'm putting 306 to the wheel on my S5 TII with FMIC, HalTech, about 14-15 lbs of boost, RB RevII exhuast, K&N cone filter, Aeromotive fuel system, and TO4B turbo. I got to 280 with the stock S5 Turbo.
In all cases I have all my under hood emissions in place. I just smogged my S4 at a test only. Passed. I smogged my S5 about a year ago at the same place, passed.
Case in point, an AZ guy looking to buy a TII. Read check is requirements:
https://www.rx7club.com/west-sale-wanted-classifieds-195/looking-clean-turbo-ii-have-cash-will-travel-972975/
If you're going to pull emissions, please just sell your car to that guy and buy a far more common high mileage TII and have your way with under the hood plans.
Sidebar, I'm putting 200 to the wheel with my S4 TII with S5 Turbo, RB RevII exhaust and FCD, drop in K&N, stock primary injectores, 680 secondary, Greddy Boost controller and AFCII running about 7-8.5 lbs of boost at max. I would not go higher boost with this set up as the AFC doesn't provide timing adjustment like a HalTech or the like would.
I'm putting 306 to the wheel on my S5 TII with FMIC, HalTech, about 14-15 lbs of boost, RB RevII exhuast, K&N cone filter, Aeromotive fuel system, and TO4B turbo. I got to 280 with the stock S5 Turbo.
In all cases I have all my under hood emissions in place. I just smogged my S4 at a test only. Passed. I smogged my S5 about a year ago at the same place, passed.
#11
Well it's just the engine and tranny and wire harness, I'm going to drop it into my s4 drift car. And yea I was looking into saving up and doing the bnr stage 2 or 3 build with the new waste gate and then bigger injectors if needed. Now is the bnr turbo builds off of tje stock rx7 turbo or do you find and supply a to4?
#12
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if you are going to remove everything just skip the rtek and spend all your money on a haltech. then you can gain a lot of cash from selling your rare turbo electronics/harness on the forum.
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720cc primaries
1,000cc secondaries
Walbro fuel pump
BNR stage 4 turbo
Racing Beat REV TII exhaust
FMIC or V-mount
You'll hit 300 just fine. (Depending on tune.)
#21
Sharp Claws
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hell i'd say go with a PnP megasquirt over the 2.1, same cost and they have most of the bugs worked out of it now and has gobs more stuff to play with. no offense to the Rtek guys, i just think it was ill implemented with a basic palm pilot, low resolution scaling, tedious setup with limited growth potential(it quite simply hasn't been keeping up with the market). it reminds me of the microtech except with a hp ceiling of closer to 350hp but they're both carved out of rocks.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-15-11 at 12:06 AM.
#22
Go standalone. The rtek is good bang for the buck dealing with the stock turbo and dropping 720cc's in the secondaries (1.7), but beyond that you are getting it a grey area. An area that will have you wishing you would have just sprung for the standalone when all said and done.
When you go standalone you lose the restrictive afm, stock ecu, stock boost sensor.... you can get some cash back right there and you will never look back. BNR stage 4 can throw 400 to the wheels.... that is like 450 crank hp in an FC with a hybrid turbo. Again, 450 crank hp in a 2800lb car.... near stock spool, stock exhaust manifold, no external wastegate, no custom downpipe..... Stupid crazy awsome bang for the buck.
When you go standalone you lose the restrictive afm, stock ecu, stock boost sensor.... you can get some cash back right there and you will never look back. BNR stage 4 can throw 400 to the wheels.... that is like 450 crank hp in an FC with a hybrid turbo. Again, 450 crank hp in a 2800lb car.... near stock spool, stock exhaust manifold, no external wastegate, no custom downpipe..... Stupid crazy awsome bang for the buck.